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Gentlemen,

I am considering purchasing a covert coat as a general purpose overcoat. I need an overcoat that I can wear with a number of different outfits: wool trousers, cotton dress shirt and dress shoes (standard outfit for work), a suit with or without a tie, or dressed down with jeans and dress shirt/sweater combo. I also need a versatile overcoat that I can wear in the fall/spring and during "warmer" days in winter. I live in Calgary (Canada) and winter temperatures can get pretty low, but they generally hover around 20 degrees fahrenheit. After some research I believe a covert coat would be appropriate. I also like the style of the coats.

I'm currently considering the covert coats from TM Lewin (approx. $300 CDN) and Charles Tyrwhitt (approx. $400 CDN). I was hoping some of you could answer a couple of questions:

1) Would you recommend the TM Lewin or the Charles Tyrwhitt covert coat? Why? I'm leaning towards the TM Lewin for 2 reasons: lower cost and no velvet collar (not sure if the velvet collar would look as good dressed down with jeans). Thoughts?

2) What "weight" are these coats - i.e. 14 oz.? Are these made of the traditional covert (twill) fabric or some other wool?

3) What temperature would you consider too cold to wear these coats?

4) Do you think they are versatile enough to wear dressed up (i.e suit) and dressed down (i.e. jeans)?

5) If purchasing a single coat, what color would be most versatile? CT sells charcoal and fawn (with velvet collar)) while Lewin sells beige (sans velvet collar).

6) Are these coats cut with a slimmer silhouette or are they boxier?

7) Would you recommend buying your usual suit size (42r in my case) or would you size up/down? (Please provide the coat measurements if you know them.)

I realize I've asked quite a few questions. I'm simply looking to solicit some general feedback on these coats to help make a decision.

As a point, I have looked at other manufacturers (i.e. Cordings, New & Lingwood) but they are 2-3 times the cost and I'm not really interested in spending that much - although I'd consider it if the quality is really that much better.

Thanks in advance!

Bryan
 

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If you are thinking about the same CT one that im thinking about, i have tried it on and it is not very warm at all. The one i tried on was more of a long blazer really. I havent any experience of the TM lewin one.

I have toyed with the idea of a covert coat, but have decided against it for now. Im just interested in buying a classic longish wool type coat now.

But any covert coat would look good dressed up or with jeans IMO.
 

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Here's a data point. I bought the Cordings in my suit size (44L). It is quite snug. If I had to do it over again, I'd size up. YMMV.
 

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Re

1) I love covert coats. They are elegant and I also love the material.
2) From the practical point of view, they are basically longer sports jackets.
3) I would not wear them in cold weather, lower then 40 deg, or windy days.
4) The velvet collar should be your last concern. I don't think that a covert coat makes a good everyday coat, unless you work in a dressy environment and wear suits. Although the purists on these boards claim that it is a country, non formal coat, you will find yourself being the "dressed up guy" in an ocean of Kanuks or Monclers.
5) The one I tried last year from CT looked nice and was made from what seemed as true covert coat material. Just start by ordering your regular suit size and it will probably fit you well. I don't remember them being boxy, neither too snug, but one cannot tell unless you try them on.
 

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Coverts are meant to be spring and autumn coats. They are more something to wear so one can be dressed outside of high summer without running to warm. After all, no well dressed man would step out of the house without an overcoat! They were never meant to run too warm - indeed, that would be last thing you'd want from your covert.
 

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I am running through this process at the moment as my House of Hardy number is finally wearing out after 20 years.

1) In my view the TM Lewin coat is very thin (almost raincoat weight) and I knocked it off my list immediately. Can't speak for the CT. The velvet collar issue is a personal matter and I would happily wear one with jeans - if I wore jeans.

2) See above

3) With the covert you are at a disadvantage as it has an open neck. Beyond -5 I switch to a full-length Loden coat

4) Yes

5) In my view the fawn is the classic covert coat and therefore works for every eventuality. It's probably also true to say that grey goes with almost anything

6) Mine is cut more like a long riding jacket (which is what it is) and the Lewin one was a lot boxier

7) I would normally expect to buy the same size as my suit

I made a little list of various manufacturers in a spreadsheet which I can send to you - it includes prices and some web sites etc.

My original deadline was Remembrance Sunday however I have chosen to go for a make-do-and-mend approach on my existing and I am currently minded towards Crombie or George Bespoke Tailors in Cleveland Street. I have been keeping an eye on Ebay and they seem to be going for rather high prices given that one is essentially talking about second-hand.
 
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