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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just bought a vintage jacket of ebay that arrived today. It seems to have been buttoned incorrectly its entire life. Having had a good look at it in person today, I can see that this has caused some creases in the fabric that effects the way that the jacket closes and the roll of the lapels. I can only think that it was also continually buttoned while on a hanger too.

Is there any way to remove these wrinkles and restore the roll of the lapels? I think it'll take something more vigorous than just a steaming.
 

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If you have a steamer I would try it. If not I would think your best and only option is the drycleaners but with very specific instructions.
 

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The roll of a lapel- long roll or short roll- is NOT a function of pressing. The collar and under-collar determine the roll. If the lapel is rolling to the top of a three button jacket ( short Roll) you get it to roll to the middle button ( long roll) by shortening the collar and under-collar. To go from a long roll to a short roll you usually need cloth to make a new collar. Creases in good cloth should be able to be steamed out.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors- 212 687-0850
www.chipp2.com
 

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The roll of a lapel- long roll or short roll- is NOT a function of pressing. The collar and under-collar determine the roll. If the lapel is rolling to the top of a three button jacket ( short Roll) you get it to roll to the middle button ( long roll) by shortening the collar and under-collar. To go from a long roll to a short roll you usually need cloth to make a new collar. Creases in good cloth should be able to be steamed out.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors- 212 687-0850
www.chipp2.com
Indeed, I had Paul do this very thing for me w/ my rowing blazer, it was an orphaned BB sack suit jacket w/ a bad lapel lay, and he had to alter the collar to get a better 3/2 roll.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thank you each for your suggestions. I'd assumed that some sort of professional help was needed, but it wasn't clear to me whether this is something a cleaner could help with, or whether a tailor was necessary.

In the interim, I've hung the coat in my bathroom to see if the steam does anything with the creases. Then I'll be off to find someone suitable.
 

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Have your valet wet a hankerchief as a pressing cloth. Squeeze out exces H2O. Place a clean towel on the ironing board as a cushion. From the lapel edge inward press the lapel flat up to the gorge seam. Rewet & squeeze hankie. Then press the same area on the underside. Rewet & squeeze hankie. Then the top side again. Repeat on opposite lapel. There should now be no crease in the lapel. Leave it be wherever it rolls. Forget about it. Use the steamer to sanitize the inside of the lower back of the coat. No, don't sniff beforehand! Stop that! Don your acquisition, swagger about in front of the cheval and congratulate yourself on your taste. Snort your magnolia bud boutonniere. Now peruse Proust or vintage editions of MAD. Same thing. Or take pot shots at those long tailed tree rats in the oaks with your classic Purdey edition Red Rider. There ya go, James Mason in The Shooting Party. Noblesse Oblige, all that. Speak kindly to a peasant. Don't worry 'bout dry rot, be happy. One digresses....
 
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