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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Some thoughts about comparisons between different wool blends

There are blends of wool with different materials. Some of you might be wondering which is "the best", and how they compare.
Is it better to get a wool blend with acrylic, nylon, or cotton?

Nylon is the strongest fiber of the three. This means that when the blend has nylon, less nylon can be used, and that maximizes your percentage of wool. Typical percentages of nylon in a wool blend might be 10, 15, or 20 percent. Occasionally you'll see something with up to 40 percent (though that almost wouldn't be like wool anymore).
Nylon is also a very flexible fiber, so is the best where drape effect is desired, like for thin wool fabric.

Acrylic is not a particularly strong fiber, but it is substantially stronger (mechanically) than wool. You can find 40, 50, or even up to 90 acrylic blends. Usually the main reason acrylic is used is because it is cheaper. It also makes the blend easier to wash, as it holds up better through a wash.
Acrylic is close to being as warm as wool (though not quite) but it breathes far worse than wool. You don't want to be wearing acrylic if there's a high chance you might overheat.
Good quality acrylic can feel almost as soft as cashmere. However, cheaper quality acrylic can feel somewhat coarse and rigid.
It can be a good choice for people who cannot stand the itchy/prickly feel of wool.

Then there are cotton blends. Typically these will be about half wool and half cotton, but some varieties will be more like 90 percent cotton. Cotton is also a moderately strong fiber, so can help give strength to the wool, so that the piece of clothing lasts longer. Of coarse, cotton is much less warm than wool. So this could be good for situations where a 100% wool piece of clothing might be a little too warm. (An alternative is thinner wool, but that might not be as desirable for durability and aesthetic reasons)
Cotton breathes nearly as good as wool. It is just much less insulating.
(A downside, if cotton gets wet, it loses much of its insulating and breathability properties. This could happen from rain, or if you sweat excessively under the clothes, typically for some athletic activity)
Acrylic, at least the type of fiber used as a replacement for wool, is actually a little weaker in strength than cotton. But high percentages of cotton can make the fabric more prone to wrinkling.


So which of these is the most optimal?
I would say that for an expensive item, nylon would theoretically be the most optimal, because it maximizes the amount of wool, while still improving durability of the fabric.
Acrylic can be good if you want to substitute some of the synthetic fiber for the wool. This might be the case to reduce cost, or to reduce itchiness of the wool fabric.
Cotton can be good in situations where breathability is still important, but again you want to substitute another material for some of the wool. Especially appropriate for situations where you do not want or need to be kept as warm.

Both nylon and acrylic have a low softening and melting point, so may not be the best if there's a danger of getting too close to a fire or oven. They say cotton and wool are safer in fires (less likely to cause harmful skin burns since they don't melt).

I think normally, you will more often see nylon used in conjunction with blends of Merino and other higher end wools, whereas acrylic will more often be used with ordinary cheaper wool, but this is not always the case.

Sometimes they want to create a warm sweater with a very smooth feel, to try to replicate the feel of some very expensive exotic wool like mohair or angora. But to reduce costs, they only use 10% or 15% of the expensive fiber. To retain the smooth feel, the rest is going to have to be made out of acrylic, since you can't put too much regular wool in there without it canceling out the smooth feel of the very expensive fiber. They might add some merino wool in there, but even then you can't use too much, and sometimes they will also add some cotton and/or viscose in there. (viscose being smoother than cotton, but cotton being stronger, and good cotton still feeling smoother than merino wool)

On the other hand, nylon is sometimes used with cheap wool in cases where both durability and breathability are important, such as athletic situations, for snow clothing for teenagers and young adults.

One irony or paradox is that the more expensive the piece of clothing is, the more important the durability of those clothes are, since it is kind of an investment. However, synthetic fibers are perceived to be lower quality, so often if the consumer is paying extra money for something like Merino wool, they are going to insist it be 100% of the expensive animal fiber they are paying for. Why pay so much money for something that is part synthetic, is what they will often think.

But 15% nylon in the blend can allow wool material to last three times as long, it will help make it more resistant to ordinary abrasion, avoid holes forming, which is often a problem with clothing made out of wool.

And in the defense of nylon, nylon is a very smooth synthetic fiber, almost sort of silk-like. In terms of how synthetic and oily it feels, I would say it's sort of half way between cotton and polyester. And also about half way between those two in terms of breathability as well. Nylon is a fairly expensive synthetic fiber though, from what I'm looking up right now the commodity material cost is nearly 3 times the cost of ordinary wool, on a weight basis. (Although of course the material cost would only be a fraction of the cost to create the clothing and retail)

For anyone super hung up about the issue of breathability, I can tell you that a nylon-wool blend would end up being more breathable than a cotton wool-blend, for a given durability level, simply because a larger percentage of wool could be used, and wool does have a substantial edge in breathability over cotton, although the two are not too dissimilar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Will 10% cashmere cotton blends really make a difference and help keep me warm?

I did some really rough napkin paper calculation estimates, and the presence of 10% cashmere in a blend should make the cotton clothing about 60% more heat insulating.

Of course, you could also just get a thicker cotton sweater or double layer. But the 10% cashmere will be a little bit of a luxury since it will keep your clothing lighter and more breathable.
They say that about 10% is on the very edge of whether it's even worth having a blend with cashmere.
It's sort of half a marketing ploy.
And I think another reason 10% blends are really common is that they use really cheap low quality cashmere that wouldn't hold up very well in strength on its own, but work okay when 90% of the material is cotton.
(low quality meaning shorter fiber lengths and/or harsh chemical treatments that help make lower quality cashmere feel softer but at the expense of fiber strength)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I understand what he means. A lot of people are being "penny wise and pound foolish" about these sort of societal issues. Going way far out of their way to avoid causing something that would be a tiny bit harmful in one place, while meanwhile totally ignoring other parts of their life where most of the problem is coming from.

If it makes anyone feel better, I think the half-life of nylon in the environment is far shorter than polyester/PET.
 

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Wool is just an amazing material. To my mind, the "varieties" of wool experience are more a matter of, first, the specific species of wool, then *weave*; I find that blends confer few advantages.

As for cashmere, that's not for warmth; that's for the hand (the texture or "softness").

Maybe there are cost savings involved in certain polymer blends, but wool (taken care of) last so long, that it's not really necessary to skimp. I have a cashmere cardigan I bought in 1990 - a really, really well-made Murray Alan - and it was $600 then (a princely sum even now, but in 1990? probably silly), but it's practically as good as new. That's $20/year, at this point, a fair price for comfort and luxury.

I am quite certain that if it were, say, a cashmere/nylon (or cotton, or whatever) blend, I would have retired it so long ago that it would have by now faded from memory.

So put me firmly in the "pure wool is best" crowd. Solves the whole micro-plastics thing, too! (though solvents may be another matter...)

I think the one application in which a wool blend works better is in some technical or "active" apparel; for example, my Icebreaker merino base layers and tee shirts (highly recommend!) are a merino-lyocell blend, so they adhere to the body "superhero costume" style... wool alone won't do that. But since I don't wear suits or sweaters skin-tight, they're all-wool.

DH
 

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Iv'e worn 100% wool outer garment during my days tracking through the mountains of N.Y. state and several others. I have also tried the 15/ 85 % wool nylon blends which I quickly donated. To this day, all wool. In fact I have retained an all wool jacket, Woolrich, some 55 + years gone, while it may not fit any longer I will not part with it.. A reminder of how well it served me.


In my opinion, nothing compares with natural fibers as outer layers. Add down, as an inner insulating layer, another natural product. I have an Eddie Bauer mackinaw coat with just those attributes I will not part with, like new, fifty plus years old. If you want to include some man made products such as pollyfill, synthetic down, etc. as an inner layer encapsulated in a shell, fine.


Same holds true for base layers, duoflold, combo of wool and cotton.
Socks, as close as I can come to 100% wool when outdoors in inclement frigid temps.
Silk, another less often discussed fiber that can insulate as well as cool.
I'll concede, Gore-Tex for its ability to prevent moisture from penetrating to inner layers while still affording breath ability.

When it comes to dress, why bother with blends that include synthetics? whats the advantage ? I have found none.

Sorry for the long winded post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
From the standpoint of warmth, and breathability, wool is indeed an amazing material. And I think we can all agree wool has a very attractive appearance as well.
It also has a few downsides though. Regular wool can be a little prickly "itchy" and irritating on skin. There is merino wool which is better, but it is also more expensive. And wool is just not that strong of a fiber compared to cotton, or especially synthetic fibers, so it can be prone to wear and getting holes in it. To say nothing of the vulnerability to moths.

Now, there are some other exotic animal furs that are just as just as warm (or warmer) as wool but completely smooth and soft (mohair, cashmere, angora), but these are extremely expensive, often the fibers can be even weaker than wool (especially if the cheaper qualities of these expensive materials are used), and they do not hold their form as well or have as much elasticity as wool. That's why a small percentage of wool is often added into a blend even in very expensive animal hair clothes.

So there are numerous trade-offs and pros and cons here. Which is why fiber blends are often used and can be a pragmatic.

To solve the "itchy" problem, the conventional thing that is done is to put on a clothing layer of something else beneath the wool, like a long-sleeve cotton shirt, for example. The problem with that is that the under layer may not completely cover where the wool is, and the wool may occasionally still brush over the area where the neck and sleeve cusps are. The other issue is that wool is sometimes desired to be worn against the skin as the underlayer (such as for long distance hiking or certain athletic situations) because, unlike cotton, it is more resistant to becoming saturated with sweat.
For women's clothing especially, it may be impractical to always have an underlayer covering every part under the wool (since women's fashion can have a more exposed look).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Maybe there are cost savings involved in certain polymer blends, but wool (taken care of) last so long, that it's not really necessary to skimp.
Well, that can be true, but again the issue is one has to take care of it. And that's something that not every person may be able or willing to do. Especially for certain situations where the clothing is likely to encounter more wear. Imagine wearing wool clothes while working on an oil platform in the North Sea.
I think we can all agree that synthetic blends might confer some advantage there.
I would imagine that a delivery driver would also experience a lot of wear on his clothes, with all the movement and rubbing against large heavy packages.
We can see that some men buy wool coats with elbow patches, to prevent holes from getting worn in the elbows, but such a design can be unsightly. It might make more sense to use a synthetic blend to resist wear in such a situation, like maybe 40 percent acrylic, 60 percent wool. Or perhaps a wool-cotton-nylon blend.
In some types of jobs or situations, stains may be more likely. And each wash can put a lot of wear on the clothes. The synthetic fibers are easier to clean as well. So a synthetic blend can allow the wool to hold up better to many wash cycles.

Of course, synthetic fiber blends can also be cheaper and softer than wool, because when half the fiber in the blend is synthetic, that is half the amount of itchy wool that will not be there. Certain people might not be able to tolerate the feel of wool against their skin, but might be able to tolerate 50 or 30 percent in a blend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I have a cashmere cardigan I bought in 1990 - a really, really well-made Murray Alan - and it was $600 then (a princely sum even now, but in 1990? probably silly), but it's practically as good as new. That's $20/year, at this point, a fair price for comfort and luxury.
If I had a $600 coat, I'd be too afraid and cautious to wear it, except for very special occasions. It would probably sit safely in my closet and never get much wear or use.
It is kind of nice to have more affordable things you can wear for more casual use and not have to worry too much about.

In the past, I had a certain family member who would just grab stuff out of my closet and use my things without asking me; also being the type of person who is not very careful or considerate with property and would put a lot of wear on the clothes. I think I would go insane if I had a $600 cashmere coat and it had gotten grabbed out of my closet.
This person wears really over-the-top cheap faux fur coats to parties, so it is probably the type of thing they would grab too.

I think the one application in which a wool blend works better is in some technical or "active" apparel; for example, my Icebreaker merino base layers and tee shirts (highly recommend!) are a merino-lyocell blend, so they adhere to the body "superhero costume" style... wool alone won't do that.
I actually don't like the feel of lyocell/spandex in blends. It just somehow makes things feel too "rubbery".
I don't like stretch in my clothes, I like firmness. (But then again I tend to wear more loose-fitting and don't like tight)
I could be in the small minority here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Socks, as close as I can come to 100% wool when outdoors in inclement frigid temps.
I tried some wool socks once. Oh they feel great, but they are expensive. And I wear holes through them very fast. I even wear holes through normal cotton socks fairly fast. But the wool socks really really fast, they do not hold up well for me at all.
I just cannot justify wool socks. They might last 1 or 2 weeks for me before they get a hole. I put a lot of wear on them and they are subject to a lot of abrasion.
I got some 90% nylon athletic socks and have had no problems. They feel fine and are very abrasion resistant and durable. But these are socks that are subject to a lot more abrasion and wear than other articles of clothing would be.

Well, actually, I found the wool socks to be a little "squishy" in feeling. Which would probably be great for any other piece of clothing, but I just wasn't used to this type of feeling for the support of my feet.

Note: We do have long cold winters here where I am but they are not too cold. Temperatures rarely actually get below freezing, or when they do, not that much below freezing. I suppose I might rethink wool if I lived somewhere else.
 

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I tried some wool socks once. Oh they feel great, but they are expensive. And I wear holes through them very fast. I even wear holes through normal cotton socks fairly fast. But the wool socks really really fast, they do not hold up well for me at all.
I just cannot justify wool socks. They might last 1 or 2 weeks for me before they get a hole. I put a lot of wear on them and they are subject to a lot of abrasion.
I got some 90% nylon athletic socks and have had no problems. They feel fine and are very abrasion resistant and durable. But these are socks that are subject to a lot more abrasion and wear than other articles of clothing would be.

Well, actually, I found the wool socks to be a little "squishy" in feeling. Which would probably be great for any other piece of clothing, but I just wasn't used to this type of feeling for the support of my feet.
Hmm. I have wool socks that have been worn over pure silk socks that have lasted years.
It's all in the knowing from experience and use. I think :icon_scratch:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
My point was, the durability of wool may be fine for some, but others may want enhanced durability, especially for certain situations.
Some people live a more rough and tumble life than others.

For enhanced durability, or slightly better ease of washing, that is where blends can come into play.

When cotton-acrylic blends first came out, they were known as a "wash and wear" replacement for wool.
https://omaha.com/special-section/p...cle_b69f235b-7c53-57b2-904e-ce9ec294b6d9.html
Of course they were only half as warm, and only breathed half as well, but many people appreciated the ease of washing compared to the traditional wool garments that were the common clothing item back then.

Here's a comment from a woman in another forum:
" I'm not a fan of acrylic and have been slowly phasing those items out of my wardrobe for cashmere instead. I find the sweater comb from JCrew works well for any pills on sweaters, regardless of the fabric. But my acrylic items do not wear or wash well and pill quickly. I find my cashmere items go from season to season while the acrylic one's only last for 1-2. I also have wool blends (100% wool is too itchy for me) and angora items. Both are itchy even as a blend so I have to use them as a top layer only. "
https://youlookfab.com/welookfab/topic/acrylic-irredeemably-nasty-or-worth-another-look

Also, good quality acrylic will not necessarily pill more than lower quality wool.

" I love the light weight of acrylic blends, also the washability. I am wearing my favorite cozy cardi from Nordstrom as I write this, it is 60% cotton 38% acrylic 2% silk. Incredibly soft, can wash and dry. It is large gauge and yes it has pilling but due to the speckled color and chunky knit and patterns, the pilling doesn't show that badly. "

" the reason why a lot of headwear is made with acrylic is because it is exceptionally cheap to manufacture, and it adds a lovely, soft hand to sometimes scratchy wool - especially when used next to sensitive areas like foreheads. "
https://backpackinglight.com/forums/topic/55776/
 
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