[endag]

Does a jacket with a larger chest size necessitate a larger armsyce? Vice versa?

EDIT: Don't know how to delete posts. Maybe I should buy smaller jackets.

 

[JBierly]

In general I would say yes. But that's mostly a result of a larger chest being associated with larger arms in human beings. I think you can have a higher armscye (which is smaller) on any given jacket size, but it can be a bit precarious if you have a large pectoralis major muscle. OTR jackets in general have a large armscye. This accommodates lots of body shapes but if too large can actually affect the mobility of the arm in the jacket. Now if humans were shaped like a T-Rex that would be a different story.

 

[fishertw]

Does a jacket with a larger chest size necessitate a larger armsyce? Vice versa?

EDIT: Don't know how to delete posts. Maybe I should buy smaller jackets.

Showing my ignorance here, but I've never heard the term "armsyce" before this post. Looking it up, I learned something new. Thanks, Tom

 

[endag]

So here's a conundrum: My 38 blazer with a 40" chest is too small, however my 42L suit with 40" chest is significantly larger. The shoulders on the blazer are wider however the jacket is 1/2 inch shorter. What gives?

 

[London380sl]

Showing my ignorance here, but I've never heard the term "armsyce" before this post. Looking it up, I learned something new. Thanks, Tom

I'll have add my ignorance to this. At first I thought it might be phonetic typo but armsyce is actually a word. To learn more about what armsyce is read this article.

https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/academy/the-armscye-height-secret-a-crucial-detail/

 

[Searching_Best_Fit]

So here's a conundrum: My 38 blazer with a 40" chest is too small, however my 42L suit with 40" chest is significantly larger. The shoulders on the blazer are wider however the jacket is 1/2 inch shorter. What gives?

You are confusing with different aspects of a tailored jacket and how it is cut (designed). Let me explain.

Within the same cut (design) OTR, larger chest size will have larger armscye, shoulder width, chest size (from pit to pit), jacket length and so on. The L (Long) size will have the same upper half, while the sleeve and jacket length is longer. With longer jacket length, the button and hip pockets are placed lower.

With different cuts (designs), everything is off. One can cut the shoulder narrower or wider for a 38 while the jacket length of another cut of suit jacket at 42L can be shorter than normal. It does not make sense to compare the shoulder widths of one cut of 38 blazer with that of the suit jacket at 42L of a different cut. They are designed differently, and thus fit you differently.

Furthermore, by definition, a 42 size jacket must have larger chest size than a 38 size jacket, even with different fits considered so there is no conundrum.

 

[endag]

You are confusing with different aspects of a tailored jacket and how it is cut (designed). Let me explain.

Within the same cut (design) OTR, larger chest size will have larger armscye, shoulder width, chest size (from pit to pit), jacket length and so on. The L (Long) size will have the same upper half, while the sleeve and jacket length is longer. With longer jacket length, the button and hip pockets are placed lower.

With different cuts (designs), everything is off. One can cut the shoulder narrower or wider for a 38 while the jacket length of another cut of suit jacket at 42L can be shorter than normal. It does not make sense to compare the shoulder widths of one cut of 38 blazer with that of the suit jacket at 42L of a different cut. They are designed differently, and thus fit you differently.

Furthermore, by definition, a 42 size jacket must have larger chest size than a 38 size jacket, even with different fits considered so there is no conundrum.

Thank you. This makes much sense. Every piece I've ordered off of eBay has been labeled correctly and has fit horribly. I suppose they were all altered previously.

 

[JBierly]

Thank you. This makes much sense. Every piece I've ordered off of eBay has been labeled correctly and has fit horribly. I suppose they were all altered previously.

There is a correct way to measure a jacket. If you know your measurements and the person selling the jacket supplies the correct measurements you should be fine. The "size" of the jacket is only a rough guide as you have learned. So, as you said - it could be the items have been altered or it could be the cut and fit of the jacket. The only thing that should be immutable is if you are considering the same manufacturer and the same fit then a 42 actually will be bigger than a 40.

For example Isaia - a fairly venerable italian manufacturer lists seven different cuts/fits of suits. (This is from their website). It becomes pretty obvious that in the absence of being able to try on a garment it becomes pretty important to know what you are purchasing.