[JLibourel]

"Remember, in his day, in his day it wasn't as easy to come by quality clothing as it is today."

Do you really think that? Pricey ready-to-wear goods may or may not have been as common, but I should think that good custom tailors were far more widespread and accessible.

 

[rsmeyer]

Quality Clothing

Right you are, JLibourel-Growing up in NYC in the 50s and 60's, there were a score of top-flight custom tailors (Dunhill Tailors, Weatherill, the custom departments at Brooks Press and others) and high quality department stores (DePinna etc.) that are gone and have often been replaced by either jeans retailers or overpriced outlets of "designer" wear.

 

[medwards]

Grant's Choices

There were certainly a large number of very fine tailors to whom Carey Grant could have taken his trade in the 1950's and 60's. However, I am reminded of something George Frazier wrote of Mr. Grant in Esquire in 1960: "Something of a maverick as to tailors, he now goes to Quintino (around $225 a suit) in Beverly Hills, California, and, whenever possible, certain of the preposterously low-priced geniuses in Hong Kong."

 

[Martinis at 8]

The book is not at B&N yet here in Houston. I will check Borders today, as I want to take a copy with me on my upcoming trip (I leave in the morning).

M8

 

[richstyle]

"Remember, in his day, in his day it wasn't as easy to come by quality clothing as it is today."

Do you really think that? Pricey ready-to-wear goods may or may not have been as common, but I should think that good custom tailors were far more widespread and accessible.

Yes, I think you're right. There were more good tailors in his day. I'm sure you've head people like Jack Taylor bemoan tailoring as "a dying art." I guess what I mean to say is that with the mass media covering fashion and style as obsessively as they do and a Polo Ralph Lauren, Armani, and other designer shops seemingly everywhere, ready-to-wear seems to be everywhere. And I think for the really good bespoke and off the peg, you had to travel to London or New York where the sales people were really knowledgeable.

 

[richstyle]

It's nice to see you back. I appreciate your willingness to share your insights with us. It's always good to have someone on board who has as obvious an interest in style as you do. I apologize if I seemed a tad cynical previously. I have seen more than a few vendors jump onto this Forum to make a quick sale and then leave just as quickly. I do hope you will try to stick with this little community of ours. It's the fashionable thing to do. :icon_smile_big:

:icon_smile: I shall not leave until I am booted off (with a quality bespoke boot of course).

 

[richstyle]

I met Cary Grant at a Hollywood private club some twenty odd years ago. His personal manner was as elegant as his wardrobe.

That's good to hear. Writing the book, I heard many stories about how gracious and kind he was--and funny. I think that's part of a man's style--not only how he looks but how he behaves.

RT

 

[richstyle]

I just received, and am thoroughly enjoying, my copy of your book. What struck me as I read is the fact that he was not born perfect...he just employed his considerable aesthetic intelligence to package himself so that he looked perfect, ie, seeking out the right cut of suit and shirt for his body structure.
I also enjoyed that you devoted space in your book to the great man's tan. Damn, what a great tan.

Good to hear it. I think that's what fresh about the book--that he wasn't this perfect god-like creature who just breezed into Hollywood and became a style icon without any effort. It required extraordinary intelligence to do what he did.

And the bit about the tan. I tried to make the book fun.

One of my favorite interviews was with one of the make-up artists who worked with CG, a cranky old man who snapped back at me when I asked, "Well, what if there was a string of rainy days, maybe on a set somewhere like London, how did he maintain that glowing tan?" "I don't know, young man, I didn't follow him around every day." Ha!

 

[richstyle]

Yes, I think you're right. There were more good tailors in his day. I'm sure you've head people like Jack Taylor bemoan tailoring as "a dying art." I guess what I mean to say is that with the mass media covering fashion and style as obsessively as they do and a Polo Ralph Lauren, Armani, and other designer shops seemingly everywhere, ready-to-wear seems to be everywhere. And I think for the really good bespoke and off the peg, you had to travel to London or New York where the sales people were really knowledgeable.

I've given this a bit more thought. What I was thinking is this. When I lived in San Diego in 1990, The Gap was the big fashion store and that was it. The freakin' Gap! Ha!

Now in La Jolla in the space of one block there's an Armani/X, Polo RL, a Banana Republic, and two tailors I frequent, one who makes my ties (because no one else wants to bother with such small change) and one who makes my suits, a bleary-eyed gent who takes forever because he's so damn busy. A a Bloomingdales is set to open soon too in one of the malls. A Bloomingdale's in San Diego! Never thought I'd see the day. And now Savile Row tailors travel to the states quite frequently. They come to YOU. Stephen Lachter was in NYC a few months ago, seeing clients, doing fittings,etc.

So I'm saying this kind of accessibility is really quite new. If you were a movie star like Mr. Grant, you could jet off to London or NYC and buy what you needed and seek out the best. But I just don't think quality or at least fairly good quality clothing and accessories have ever been more accessible than they are today.

 

[JLibourel]

I bought the book at my local B&N yesterday evening and pored over last night and early this morning before rising. It am up to the chapter about Grant and his women. It is certainly a book that belongs in every sartorialist's library.

Richard, I see that you live in L.A. Any chance of local signings? I am sure that a number of forumites would like to attend and perhaps make an event of it.

One thing that surprised me is that in a goodly percentage of the photos of situations where CG might or should have been wearing a pocket square, he wasn't. Admittedly, some of these were from his movies. Still it seems surprising. The pocket square was conspicuous by its absence in about 40% of the photos where most of us would have thought it should have been present.

 

[Artisan Fan]

I can't wait to get this book. Thanks Rich for this insider commentary and for creating such a style book. Keep on keeping on.

 

[richstyle]

Welcome to the board, Mr. Torregrossa. Do let us know if you are planning to have a book signing party or related event, especially in the Los Angeles area. I'm sure the Southern California contingent of AskAndy would be interested in attending. I know I would be happy to attend and purchase your book.

I'm thinking maybe Book Soup in Los Angeles for a signing in October. Unless you know of a better venue.

I'm also thinking of getting a bunch of authors together who have written on the subject of fashion and style and maybe doing a Q&A with the audience. Manton is on the East Coast, but I might be able to assemble an interesting group from the L.A. area. Not only writers who write on sartorial matters but maybe even film critics, costume designers, etc., who could offer their view on the power of style.

The question is where. Anybody got any ideas?

--RT

 

[EL72]

I'm thinking maybe Book Soup in Los Angeles for a signing in October. Unless you know of a better venue.

I'm also thinking of getting a bunch of authors together who have written on the subject of fashion and style and maybe doing a Q&A with the audience. Manton is on the East Coast, but I might be able to assemble an interesting group from the L.A. area. Not only writers who write on sartorial matters but maybe even film critics, costume designers, etc., who could offer their view on the power of style.

The question is where. Anybody got any ideas?

--RT

How about the Rose Bowl?

 

[undarted]

I love this thread. Rich, I think you nailed it when you said he was a pioneer, in the sense that he was a style icon, not fashion! I think CG epitomized that distinction, which makes him such a heavyweight around here. If Ask Andy had to identify one individual that captures its philosophy, I think he would be Cary Grant.

I am definitely going to check it out at Barnes, if it's there.

 

[richstyle]

I bought the book at my local B&N yesterday evening and pored over last night and early this morning before rising. It am up to the chapter about Grant and his women. It is certainly a book that belongs in every sartorialist's library.

Richard, I see that you live in L.A. Any chance of local signings? I am sure that a number of forumites would like to attend and perhaps make an event of it.

One thing that surprised me is that in a goodly percentage of the photos of situations where CG might or should have been wearing a pocket square, he wasn't. Admittedly, some of these were from his movies. Still it seems surprising. The pocket square was conspicuous by its absence in about 40% of the photos where most of us would have thought it should have been present.

A local signing has been suggested and I'll check with Book Soup. I shall keep you all posted. A forum somewhere would be even better. Any ideas?

Very sharp observation about CG's omission of pocket squares-particularly odd for a man who claimed to have invented or popularized the square version. You know I didn't even notice that until you pointed it out. Here's my guess as to why.

Early on, in the 30s and 40s, I think you see him with pocket handkerchiefs, especially in the 30s, in all manners-- fluffed and stuffed, pointed, etc. See the photo of CG and Katherine Hepburn in the book.

But I think as he got older he paired down his style. As Diana Vreeland famously said, "style (or was it elegance?) is elimination." Grant himself said about style "the simpler the better." Perhaps that was one of the accessories he eliminated.

But I think the reason might also be a technical one concerning movies. Mainly lighting. In North by Northwest he wears the famous mid-gray suit and matching tie but no pocket square. I think a white pocket square might've reflected light in a way Hitch or CG thought distracting.

Eva Marie Saint told me that on that picture they had trouble lighting them because he was so tan and she was so light skinned. So maybe the white pocket square was eliminated because of the way it reflected light. (His white shirt does look to me like it's piped with halogen lighting it's so bright.) She also told me that he traveled light and seemed to embrace a real minimalist approach to dressing.

But I for one am all for pocket squares!

Cheers,
RT

 

[richstyle]

I love this thread. Rich, I think you nailed it when you said he was a pioneer, in the sense that he was a style icon, not fashion! I think CG epitomized that distinction, which makes him such a heavyweight around here. If Ask Andy had to identify one individual that captures its philosophy, I think he would be Cary Grant.

I am definitely going to check it out at Barnes, if it's there.

I owe a thanks to Mr. Chatterbox because he asked the question, What makes CG unique, and that got me thinking. It wasn't an easy question to answer because he had so many sterling qualities that combined to make him the icon that he is, but I wanted to sum it up in one word. I'm glad you think "pioneer" sounded right.

 

[erasmus]

I'm thinking maybe Book Soup in Los Angeles for a signing in October. Unless you know of a better venue.

I'm also thinking of getting a bunch of authors together who have written on the subject of fashion and style and maybe doing a Q&A with the audience. Manton is on the East Coast, but I might be able to assemble an interesting group from the L.A. area. Not only writers who write on sartorial matters but maybe even film critics, costume designers, etc., who could offer their view on the power of style.

The question is where. Anybody got any ideas?

--RT

A menswear store would be a possibility (probably an independent store). Manton had his signing at Venanzi in midtown Manhattan. I noticed Domenico Vacca has a store now on Rodeo.

 

[richstyle]

A menswear store would be a possibility (probably an independent store). Manton had his signing at Venanzi in midtown Manhattan. I noticed Domenico Vacca has a store now on Rodeo.

I know a gal at the Domenico Vacca store. Could be a possibility. I'm checking around... Wonder if I could get some CG people to come....

 

[Rubini]

The question is where. Anybody got any ideas?

--RT

Apparently, CG used to eat at Canter's Deli. Maybe you could hold the event there...

 

[medwards]

Surprising that Canter's doesn't include him on its list of celebrity noshers: