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My objection is what fusing does to what it is attatched to.
When I select a cloth to construct a jacket, I pick a cloth that has a good hand and suppleness. Fusing bonds itself to the cloth and compromises the essence of the cloth. Cloth that is fused takes on the characteristics of the fusing materials and becomes a different cloth. Canvas gives support to the cloth but does not alter the intrinsic nature of the cloth. The characteristic values of the cloth remain intact to be appreciated when wearing. If you are a purist, this compromise would be objectionable.
I've seen good fusing, I know there are different weights and softness and firmness levels of fusing but fusing alone cannot replicate the shaping and feel that a canvased front has. Fusing has its place for stabilizing cloth and is cost effective and labor saving in manufacturing.
I've seen Kiton jackets that were entirely fused with no canvas. But this was done to create a different style of garment and it did not feel or look like their canvased jackets. I was commissioned to recreate this garment. I made 3 complete jackets, experimenting with fusing techniques to learn how this jacket was made before ever starting the clients. In the end I still used collar linen over fusing because I just couldn't get there with fusing.

Romualdo, cheers or jeers, what do you think of fusing?
 

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quote:Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz

Properly Fusing a collar costs me more ... much more ... than making an unfused collar. It lays flatter, lasts longer, and looks crisper. Fusing coats or shirt cuffs & center plackets can be another matter entirely.
Alex, can you address the issue of collar shrinkage? Is it collar fusing that continues to shrink or other factors?
Is it improper laundering? Is it bad fusing or application techninique that causes shrinkage?
What's the deal?
I am asking about shirt collars that are 16" when new and 15" 6 months later.
Would really like to know?
Chris
 
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