Can someone give me an overview of lining and fusing in shirts

8751 Views 49 Replies 18 Participants Last post by Alexander Kabbaz, Oct 19, 2008

Romualdo

Discussion Starter · Mar 15, 2006

Fusing?

Why are you so against fusing?

Trevor L. Furbay
Proprietor

ROMUALDO TAILORING CO.
www.romualdo.com

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The fusing is on the side of the collar that does not show, right?

Why would you prefer not to fuse the inside of - for instance - barrel cuffs? Wouldn't that simply help them retain their shape better?

quote:Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz

Properly Fusing a collar costs me more ... much more ... than making an unfused collar. It lays flatter, lasts longer, and looks crisper. Fusing coats or shirt cuffs & center plackets can be another matter entirely.

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Cantabrigian

· #18 · Mar 15, 2006

quote:Originally posted by Alexander Kabbaz

quote: The fusing is on the side of the collar that does not show, right?
Why would you prefer not to fuse the inside of - for instance - barrel cuffs? Wouldn't that simply help them retain their shape better?

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No. It is on the underside of the cloth that shows. Why not on cuffs? Because cuffs actually touch you whereas collar leaves do not. I don't really want that extreme stiffness touching me. Some clients (two) insist that I fuse their cuffs. They must beat their wrists agains ricebags to build up callouses in advance.

Perhaps this is simply a question of fusing done well vs. fusing done poorly but donâ€™t you find that fusing underneath the side of the collar that shows shortens the useful life of that collar â€" at least compared with fusing underneath the side of the collar that faces down?

In either case, the collar is given the necessary structure to look crisp and keep a tie from slipping out from under the collar. But in the case that the fusing is underneath the non-showing side, you never have to worry about the fusing bubbling and ruining the collar (and likely the shirt). Perhaps with well executed-fusing, that simply will never happen but a priori, it seems like a risk that need not be taken.

Iâ€™ve also found that a collar fused on the non-showing side feels much softer and more comfortable â€" especially when a tie is worn.

Iâ€™ve also seen something similar with French cuffs. The soft, unfused side is all that touches the wrist while the other side is fused, allowing them to stay crisp.

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Cantabrigian

· #23 · Mar 16, 2006

How do the patches run - horizontally or vertically?

quote:Originally posted by thinman

Alex, I just ordered a MTM shirt and was offered a choice between a fused collar and a "patch-fused" collar. Patch-fusing was described to me as fusing in strips rather than fusing the entire collar. Patch-fusing is allegedly superior because it allows the fabric to adjust some without puckering when the collar shrinks. To quote the name of the party game: fact or cr*p?

Best regards,
thinman

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Cantabrigian

· #25 · Mar 16, 2006

quote:Originally posted by thinman

Good question. I was under the impression they ran vertically, along the short length of the collar, which didn't make sense to me. I need to pick up an altered suit tomorrow, so I'll ask.

It would be interesting to see how it turns out - seems like having part fused and part not would lead to islands of puffiness amidst an otherwise smooth sea of fusing. But for all I know, it could be the greatest thing ever.

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