[mm999]

I ordered a suit online recently because they didn’t have one in stock at the store when I went there (I went to Nordstrom and I tried on a different color of the same suit I ordered). It’ll arrive soon, and I’ll need to bring it in to be tailored. I also need to get my dress shirts tailored because the sleeves are too baggy and too long. The suit is a navy color and slim fit, if that matters.

I’ve looked at websites, images, and videos online, and even what the tailor at the store measured, and there seems to be variations on what people think is the proper length for sleeves for a suit and for a dress shirt. Even when a tailor did the measurements for me at the store, the sleeves were longer than what I saw online and the pants were slightly lower and baggier than what I saw online.

1. What is the proper sleeve length of a suit? At what point of your hand or wrist should it sit?

2. What is the proper sleeve length of a dress shirt that you will wear with a suit?

3. When the tailor was taking measurements, he had me stand without shoes, but the pants were already slightly baggy without shoes. This doesn’t make sense to me because I assumed that you need to be wearing dress shoes to be properly fitted for pants. I also saw someone there wearing dress shoes when he was being fitted for a suit. When I get the pants tailored, how baggy should they be if I’m not wearing shoes? Also, should I instead bring my own dress shoes or wear dress shoes that they have there when I get the pant measurements taken?

4. If the advice I get from here is different than what the tailor wants to do, should I just mention it to them and have them do it a different way than what they intend?

Thanks.

 

[Mathematicus]

You should post pictures if you are seeking for advice.

Anyway, probably none of your questions has a precise answer because things vary a lot depending on build, cuts and preferences.

Perhaps everybody would agree - I think - that trousers should be hemmed with dress shoes on.

 

[Flanderian]

I ordered a suit online recently because they didn't have one in stock at the store when I went there (I went to Nordstrom and I tried on a different color of the same suit I ordered). It'll arrive soon, and I'll need to bring it in to be tailored. I also need to get my dress shirts tailored because the sleeves are too baggy and too long. The suit is a navy color and slim fit, if that matters.

I've looked at websites, images, and videos online, and even what the tailor at the store measured, and there seems to be variations on what people think is the proper length for sleeves for a suit and for a dress shirt. Even when a tailor did the measurements for me at the store, the sleeves were longer than what I saw online and the pants were slightly lower and baggier than what I saw online.

1. What is the proper sleeve length of a suit? At what point of your hand or wrist should it sit?

2. What is the proper sleeve length of a dress shirt that you will wear with a suit?

3. When the tailor was taking measurements, he had me stand without shoes, but the pants were already slightly baggy without shoes. This doesn't make sense to me because I assumed that you need to be wearing dress shoes to be properly fitted for pants. I also saw someone there wearing dress shoes when he was being fitted for a suit. When I get the pants tailored, how baggy should they be if I'm not wearing shoes? Also, should I instead bring my own dress shoes or wear dress shoes that they have there when I get the pant measurements taken?

4. If the advice I get from here is different than what the tailor wants to do, should I just mention it to them and have them do it a different way than what they intend?

Thanks.

1. The end of the jacket sleeve should end roughly 1/2" above that of your properly fitting shirt sleeve.

2. Your shirt sleeve should rest at the base of your thumb. (Where the thumb joins your wrist.)

3. I'm not a tailor, I don't know what all of the measurements might be that the tailor wished to make, but it has been my experience that measurements for length are commonly done shod. However, since most shoes will give you an inch, or so, of added ground clearance, the arithmetic is pretty simple. Perhaps he just wanted to make it easier for you to don and take off the trousers, or perhaps offer less risk of the heel catching and tearing them. I can't know. You should ask him.

4. Different tailors have different ideas,, some good, some not so good. For years many tailors would "overcoat" your jacket sleeves, and have them extend almost to the knuckles Soviet Union style. But they possess many mysteries that are beyond mere mortals to ken. The answer is a question: how much do you trust him?

 

[EclecticSr.]

All above good advice. I'll add, little clues to observe. Does the tailor measure from thumb knuckle at each arm to insure cuff falls at same distance, one arm may be longer than the other.
When chalking length of trousers, while shod, does he or she place a ruler at the back from the floor/stand up and place a chalk mark across both legs to insure when cuffing or hemming there are no deviations one to the other, often a tailor will only mark one leg at the point that you desire. The chalk mark insures both cuffs/hems are aligned. I prefer hems at cadet angle, no break. You may prefer different.

Convey what you want, within reason, and a good tailor will work with you and often give sound advice.

I can recall when I commissioned my first bespoke suit from my current and only tailor I will ever need, regrettably less these days since retirement, I had indicated I would like the lapels and trouser pockets to be pick stitched. Being his first language is Italian he interpreted that to be swell stitched. When I arrived for final fitting I noticed this and pointed out that was not what I had wanted, fortunately his sons were in the shop under his apprenticeship
and they described what I meant. He apologized and went on to perform what he called in Italian a reverse pick stitch on a piece of cloth and said it would be corrected. As best as I understood it, a hand stitch, one foreword one back, pick stitch like I've never seen.
Not to mention his hand stitched working button holes.

Hopefully you will know when you've hit the right tailor. If your into clothing and I assume you are, a good tailor is your friend.

Good luck.