As I become exposed to new things I get interested in them. Recently, through internet message boards, I've been exposed to the world of Japanese reproduction jeans. Fascinating stuff, true craftsmen. It really makes me want to own a pair. Only one problem, I'm not a jeans guy, I'm a khaki guy. I own jeans and wear jeans but I love khakis. So when I leaned that a company by the name of Buzz Rickson in Japan was making a pair of khakis that were supposed to be faithful reproductions of WWII khakis I was intrigued. Buzz Rickson is known in the US for making the best WWII fighter jackets available. They also make (or are affiliated with) Sugarcane Denim which makes very highly respected jeans. So I found a gentleman on a message board who lives in Japan and was willing to help me get a pair of these khakis as they're not available through any US retailers. After a few e-mails, a paypal payment, and a weeks waiting, the mail lady brought me this.
Which was very exciting. I opened it up to find this.
Another envelope. Not exactly hard work to open the mail but sure exciting. Opening the second envelope revealed this.
The fabric felt hard and unwashed, just the way clothes should be when new. I'm not a fan of having a company pre-wash the first 2-5 years of life out of clothes for me. Another reason I was interested in these pants. Opening them up revealed a very full cut pair of pants.
And a wonderfully finished button fly. This is another one of the reasons I purchased these pants. I really wanted a button fly. There are very few options out there for button fly khakis, Bills being the prime one. Bills cost about the same but right now then appear to only be available in a very heavy wash. No thanks, if I'm spending over a C-note on pants I don't want them nearly worn out already.
I spent some time looking at the amazing attention to detail on these pants. The stitching is perfect, on the hems the sewing goes all the way around and finishes in the exact same holes it started in. The finish on the interior seams is as high quality as the outseams. These pants are the nicest constructed pair of pants I think I've ever seen. Here's a picture of the inside of the pants.
Here a photo of the inside pocket and the tag.
Sizing on these pants is pretty restrictive. They make them only in waist sizes 28-35 and you get what inseam you get, no choice. My waist size is 32 so I got inseam 34. Now, my normal inseam is about 30 and because these are a high rise pant I take a hemmed length shorter than that. Here's a couple of pictures of the pants on me before they were washed. They're still cardboard stiff. You can tell they're quite roomy.
I'm a happy camper. All that's left to do is compare them with the standard for really good khakis, Bills. The fabric weight is similar, I'm betting Bills is a bit heavier. It's always hard to compare fabrics when one is brand new and the other has been softened through washing. As far as fit, they fit very similar as I'll show below through measurements. The Buzz Rickson's have pockets that are slightly off seam though and this a a big advantage for me. Because of the shape of my hips on seam pockets tend to pop have a very bad look on me. The BR's don't do that so I feel (and my wife agrees) that although both are very full cut pants the BR's look slimmer on me. As slim as a pant like this can anyway. As far as measurement comparisons, I measured my Buzz Rickson's and my Bills (M1 flat front waist size 32) It's not a perfect comparison but it's fairly instructive.
Buzz Rickson, waist size 32
Rise 15 ½
Waist 32
Across hips 23
Leg at thigh 13 ½
Leg at knee 11 ½
Leg at my ankle 10 ½
Bills M1 flat front waist size 31
Rise 15 ¼
Waist 31
Across hips 22
Leg at thigh 13 ½
Leg at knee 11 ¼
Leg at my ankle 9 ½
Here's a couple of pictures of these pants next to each other. They are very similar in cut as one would expect them to be as they both claim to be copied from WWII khakis.
My final comment on these Buzz Rickson khakis is that they're incredible. They are exactly what I wanted. A full cut button fly khaki that hasn't been pre-washed by a factory. They were expensive ($137 shipped to my door) but if they last as long as I suspect they will then they will have been worth it.
If anybody has any questions or wants me to take any other photographs just let me know. I hope this has been informative or at least entertaining.

Which was very exciting. I opened it up to find this.

Another envelope. Not exactly hard work to open the mail but sure exciting. Opening the second envelope revealed this.

The fabric felt hard and unwashed, just the way clothes should be when new. I'm not a fan of having a company pre-wash the first 2-5 years of life out of clothes for me. Another reason I was interested in these pants. Opening them up revealed a very full cut pair of pants.

And a wonderfully finished button fly. This is another one of the reasons I purchased these pants. I really wanted a button fly. There are very few options out there for button fly khakis, Bills being the prime one. Bills cost about the same but right now then appear to only be available in a very heavy wash. No thanks, if I'm spending over a C-note on pants I don't want them nearly worn out already.

I spent some time looking at the amazing attention to detail on these pants. The stitching is perfect, on the hems the sewing goes all the way around and finishes in the exact same holes it started in. The finish on the interior seams is as high quality as the outseams. These pants are the nicest constructed pair of pants I think I've ever seen. Here's a picture of the inside of the pants.

Here a photo of the inside pocket and the tag.

Sizing on these pants is pretty restrictive. They make them only in waist sizes 28-35 and you get what inseam you get, no choice. My waist size is 32 so I got inseam 34. Now, my normal inseam is about 30 and because these are a high rise pant I take a hemmed length shorter than that. Here's a couple of pictures of the pants on me before they were washed. They're still cardboard stiff. You can tell they're quite roomy.


I'm a happy camper. All that's left to do is compare them with the standard for really good khakis, Bills. The fabric weight is similar, I'm betting Bills is a bit heavier. It's always hard to compare fabrics when one is brand new and the other has been softened through washing. As far as fit, they fit very similar as I'll show below through measurements. The Buzz Rickson's have pockets that are slightly off seam though and this a a big advantage for me. Because of the shape of my hips on seam pockets tend to pop have a very bad look on me. The BR's don't do that so I feel (and my wife agrees) that although both are very full cut pants the BR's look slimmer on me. As slim as a pant like this can anyway. As far as measurement comparisons, I measured my Buzz Rickson's and my Bills (M1 flat front waist size 32) It's not a perfect comparison but it's fairly instructive.
Buzz Rickson, waist size 32
Rise 15 ½
Waist 32
Across hips 23
Leg at thigh 13 ½
Leg at knee 11 ½
Leg at my ankle 10 ½
Bills M1 flat front waist size 31
Rise 15 ¼
Waist 31
Across hips 22
Leg at thigh 13 ½
Leg at knee 11 ¼
Leg at my ankle 9 ½
Here's a couple of pictures of these pants next to each other. They are very similar in cut as one would expect them to be as they both claim to be copied from WWII khakis.


My final comment on these Buzz Rickson khakis is that they're incredible. They are exactly what I wanted. A full cut button fly khaki that hasn't been pre-washed by a factory. They were expensive ($137 shipped to my door) but if they last as long as I suspect they will then they will have been worth it.
If anybody has any questions or wants me to take any other photographs just let me know. I hope this has been informative or at least entertaining.