[Flanderian]

Edge stitching, but center placket. All my bells and whistles. Sure do like the forest green one! Such a lovely and useful shade of green. Brooks used to know about it, now eve an olive is rare, Kermit The Frog Green the common variant. But most stripes found there, and elsewhere, just pusillanimous

https://ascotchang.tumblr.com/

 

[EclecticSr.]

Edge stitching, but center placket. All my bells and whistles. Sure do like the forest green one! Such a lovely and useful shade of green. Brooks used to know about it, now eve an olive is rare, Kermit The Frog Green the common variant. But most stripes found there, and elsewhere, just pusillanimous

https://ascotchang.tumblr.com/

I believe I have that green one.

 

[Flanderian]

I believe I have that green one.

Very nice! Can do a lot of interesting things with it. I'm envisioning it with a light grey flannel, or a DB tan gabardine.

Once had my shirtmaker do a similar butcher stripe in pale blue on white with a self spread collar and found it surprisingly versatile, provided a more discreet choice of neckwear, most often a solid. Went particularly well with a suit of a muted glen check from Scabal.

 

[Matt S]

They looks very well-made, and the stripes look fantastic. But I despise edge stitching. And pockets on a white collar/cuff shirt? That just seems so wrong to me.

 

[Flanderian]

They looks very well-made, and the stripes look fantastic. But I despise edge stitching. And pockets on a white collar/cuff shirt? That just seems so wrong to me.

If the price is right, I'm sure they'll make 'em any way you like 'em!

I believe Ascot Chang has a significant retail business now, and I guess this is what they thought would sell.

Edge stitching is very much a love it or hate it thing. The standard which I've seen on some French bespoke, and I'm sure elsewhere, is edge stitching, no placket and no pocket. But I have very definite preferences depending upon the shirt, and was blessed with a forbearing shirtmaker. Dress shirts: edge stitching on collar and cuffs, but with a placket with standard 3/16" stitching, no pocket. BD: as above but with standard 3/16" stitching on collar, cuffs and placket. Sport shirts: as with a BD, but adding a pocket on the left chest, and sometimes on both sides with flaps, if sufficiently rustic.

Nothing particularly right or wrong about any of that, it's just what looks best to me. To me a dress shirt just doesn't look finished without a placket, and a placket just doesn't look right with edge stitching.

 

[StephenRG]

And pockets on a white collar/cuff shirt? That just seems so wrong to me.

I quite agree.

 

[Matt S]

If the price is right, I'm sure they'll make 'em any way you like 'em!

I believe Ascot Chang has a significant retail business now, and I guess this is what they thought would sell.

Edge stitching is very much a love it or hate it thing. The standard which I've seen on some French bespoke, and I'm sure elsewhere, is edge stitching, no placket and no pocket. But I have very definite preferences depending upon the shirt, and was blessed with a forbearing shirtmaker. Dress shirts: edge stitching on collar and cuffs, but with a placket with standard 3/16" stitching, no pocket. BD: as above but with standard 3/16" stitching on collar, cuffs and placket. Sport shirts: as with a BD, but adding a pocket on the left chest, and sometimes on both sides with flaps, if sufficiently rustic.

Nothing particularly right or wrong about any of that, it's just what looks best to me. To me a dress shirt just doesn't look finished without a placket, and a placket just doesn't look right with edge stitching.

The edge stitching on a placket doesn't look right to me. If you're going to do edge stitching on a collar and cuffs, no placket would be best. My shirtmaker stitched the collar and cuffs at a healthy 7 mm, which really gives presence to the collar and cuffs. Since I like large collars and cuffs, this stitching looks proportionate to the dimensions of the collar and cuffs. They stitch the placket at 15 mm, which really visually anchors the placket. Otherwise, stitching the placket at 1/2" or 3/8" is my preference. And like you, I prefer a placket. But I'd rather have no placket than one that's stitched at 1/4" or 3/16".

 

[FLMike]

They looks very well-made, and the stripes look fantastic. But I despise edge stitching. And pockets on a white collar/cuff shirt? That just seems so wrong to me.

Agree. Would avoid that shirt for that reason alone.

 

[eagle2250]

Interesting...on the other side of that coin, the edge stitching is what most attracts my attention to the shirt in question. It strikes me as a particularly desirable and elegant finishing touch. LOL. Our different perspectives are what make this place so interesting.

 

[FLMike]

Interesting...on the other side of that coin, the edge stitching is what most attracts my attention to the shirt in question. It strikes me as a particularly desirable and elegant finishing touch. LOL. Our different perspectives are what make this place so interesting.

As they say.....that's what makes markets!

 

[EclecticSr.]

If the price is right, I'm sure they'll make 'em any way you like 'em!

I believe Ascot Chang has a significant retail business now, and I guess this is what they thought would sell.

The shirts are very well made and at the time I purchased them the ready made came with pockets, possibly still do. I agree with others about the pockets but I favor edge stitching and the patterns they offered.I believe ready made now go for about $250.00, bespoke about $400.00, depending on fabric. Edge stitching is a feature on my Liste Rouge MTM, and and other French made as well as some of my Italian makes. I also have many shirts with other types collar stitching, I'm not that rigid.

 

[Flanderian]

French dark blue butcher stripe by Parisian bespoke shirtmaker Daniel Levy for comparison. All of his shirts are made without a placket, which I've found typical of French dress shirts. Other details are very varied. Butcher stripe shirt has conventional stitching space on collar, a contrast collar shirt featured on his blog has near edge stitching. And he also varies collars, collar height and buttoning as seen below to suit, I assume, his and his clients' aesthetic preferences.

 

[16412]

That second shirt is pretty.

 

[215339]

I found this picture posted on TOF. Looks wider than butcher stripes, but I wouldn't mind wearing this in a linen fabric.

 

[jackmccullough]

French dark blue butcher stripe by Parisian bespoke shirtmaker Daniel Levy for comparison. All of his shirts are made without a placket, which I've found typical of French dress shirts. Other details are very varied. Butcher stripe shirt has conventional stitching space on collar, a contrast collar shirt featured on his blog has near edge stitching. And he also varies collars, collar height and buttoning as seen below to suit, I assume, his and his clients' aesthetic preferences.

Much better. I can't stand shirts with contrasting collars, but I do like the stripes.

 

[Flanderian]

Fella doin' right by his oxblood butcher stripe with (Sorry, Jack.) white collar.