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brooks shell vs alden lasts.. and heel slippage

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12K views 19 replies 9 participants last post by  smets  
#1 ·
I just received a pair of brooks shell cordovan wingtips and my heel seems to be slipping in the right shoe only. The left shoe is fine. I am a size 10.5 D and that is the correct size in the following shoes.

AE park avenues
AE Bradley
Florsheim Kenmoors
Brooks cordovan blucher

So here are my questions.

1) if my heel is slipping in one shoe but not the other, are the shoes just defective?

2) I really love the shoe design. Is the brooks last the same as the alden (974) last for this shoe? I'm asking since I would be willing to purchase the alden shoe directly if the last was different and that would make a difference.
 
#7 ·
jimbosyn said:
does the slip go away after the shoe is broken in, or do you just live with it?
With loafers the tight one usually stretches so that they fit equally. Not so with lace-ups. However, my shoe collection is miniscule compared to most here, so hopefully others will chime in.

DocD
 
#9 ·
does the slip go away after the shoe is broken in, or do you just live with it?
It the soles are uncommonly stiff when the shoes are new, the heels can slip even if the shoes fit properly because the soles don't flex as your foot does and you partially step out of the shoe as you walk. That will go away as the shoes break in.

It's more likely, though, that the heels just don't fit you well.
 
#10 ·
There are two ad hoc remedies that come to mind here for the shoe that is slipping: (a) a tongue pad--which pushes the foot backwards against the heel a little--and (b) a heel grip--a rough-textured (sometimes suede) stick-on pad that goes on the inside of the back wall of the heel, and, through the additional traction, reduces the tendency for the heel to slip. Both are readily-available in any well-stocked cobbler's shop. With one or both of these, the problem should at least be reduced.
 
#11 ·
2 cents

I recently purchased the BB Blucher and had the same exact problem.
Over the period of a month I tried on and exchanged for sizes smaller and narrower. I ended up sticking with the one with heel slippage on the right foot, though it was minimal and the shoe felt right in length and width. Though the heel may be a little too big for me?, which also seems to be the case with my Alden kuda chukka on the barrie last. I believe you can request Alden to make the shoe with a narrower heel than what the standard is??

I'm not an expert, but I believe the shoes will loosen up and flex with the foot more once they're broken in, as they don't really bend much now and if not I can always get a heel pad or one of the other recomended "fixes".
 
#13 ·
Since you bought the shoes already, I would use a tongue pad and not a heel grip. In the future, I would try on shoes a half size smaller than your usual size in calf skin shoes. Compare the fit, keeping in mind the shoes will stretch in the future after the break in period.
I just received the shoes from brooksbrothers.com. I have not worn them at all except to try them on in my carpeted house. I assume I could still return them for a 10 D instead of a 10.5 D. The reason I went with the 10.5 D is that I have a pair of second hand BB Bluchers in 10.5D that fit well

Based on the comments I have 2 choices.

1) Return the shoes for a half size smaller
2) Keep the shoes, and one of the two things will happen. A) The soles will begin to give and the slippage will go away, or B) The slippage does not go away an I could use a tongue pad.

I suppose I could add a third option of
3) Return the shoes for a refund and in their place purchase an Alden longwing, or an AE longwing (MacNeil).

Does this cover all my options?
 
#14 ·
Since you bought the shoes already, I would use a tongue pad and not a heel grip. In the future, I would try on shoes a half size smaller than your usual size in calf skin shoes. Compare the fit, keeping in mind the shoes will stretch in the future after the break in period.
Sorry to double post. But does Shell Cordovan typically run a half size smaller when compared to calf?
 
#15 ·
Shell seems to be a really difficult shoe to fit??? maybe b/c there are so many varying opinions on how much it stretches/the nature of it and it is a very stiff shoe to begin with? or maybe it's Alden that is a difficult shoe to fit?? Or maybe it's spending that amount of $$ on a shoe that makes one scrutinize the fit so much??:crazy:

My suggestion would be to contact Alden and seek their advice???
 
#16 ·
It the soles are uncommonly stiff when the shoes are new, the heels can slip even if the shoes fit properly because the soles don't flex as your foot does and you partially step out of the shoe as you walk. That will go away as the shoes break in.
The above is true when applied to the Alden loafer, but much less likely with the lace-up he's bought.

If it is a bit of heel slippage, try the tongue pad. I'd order the 10D to try it out, keeping the 10 1/2D to compare.

If neither fit well, your best bet (should you not be wed to the particular design and last of the Brooks Alden) is to be properly fitted by Alden. A good stockist will carry the gamut of sizes, and should you need another width will be able to help.

Cheers,

Ben
 
#17 ·
Shell cordovan shoes should never be purchased sight unseen, whether new or used. One should always try them on in the store to make sure they fit properly and don't slip at the heel. I learned this lesson the hard way, buying Alden shells both new and used online. I've always had good luck buying Alden or AE calf shoes sight unseen, but shell's a different story. Ebay shells in particular have been a huge bust for me.

You have to ask yourself why all these guys are putting $550 Aldens in good condition on eBay with no min bid? Because they're the same five pairs of heel-slipping shells that keep getting caught and released, I'm convinced of it. Ebay shells are like holiday fruitcakes. Nobody ever eats them. They just keep getting re-gifted.

Peter
 
#18 ·
It the soles are uncommonly stiff when the shoes are new, the heels can slip even if the shoes fit properly because the soles don't flex as your foot does and you partially step out of the shoe as you walk. That will go away as the shoes break in.
I think you might have diagnosed my problem. I am a little suspicious since my right and left foot seem to be the same size, so I was concerned that one foot would slip while the other one would not. After reading your post about the stiffness of the soles, I tried an experiment. I took the right shoe, which is the one with slippage, and bent it as if to simulate walking. I gave it 10 good bends. I trired the shoe on again and walked around the house. The slippage was almost completely gone! It appears as though you were right about the stiffness of the sole causing my heel to slip. I guess the right shoe had a stiffer sole than the left. I am wearing the shoes at work right now, and the slippage almost completely gone. I'll report back at the end of the day and let you know how things go, but It appears as though my problem is solved

Many many thanks to everyone's adivce and tips. You are all greatly appreciated.
 
#19 ·
Final report

I wore the shoes all day yesterday and within the first few hours, the slippage in my right foot was completely gone. I think that either the sole in the right shoe was stiffer than the left, or my right foot is a tad smaller than the left. Either way, within a few hours of wearing, the shoes fit with no problems at all.

Or maybe it's spending that amount of $$ on a shoe that makes one scrutinize the fit so much??:crazy:
I think you are right on here. When you pay more money for something, you tend to have higher expectations for quality, workmanship, and fit. I am guilty of this when I buy Apple computers. Since they tend to be much more expensive than regular PC's, I scrutinize every aspect of the system more heavily than I would a cheaper purchase.