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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is anyone aware of a way to tell who manufactured a particular shoe, as well as the last? I am likely purchasing a suede long wing at 25% off next week. I don’t mind paying more for a shoe I can try on in the store. I can purchase more at an online retailer with that info.

I doubt the sales associate will know. They are pushing the made in Italy Golden Fleece shoes which I find hideous.


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This is a recurrent question - I am fairly certain the one pair of Peals I own are C and J. Alfred Sargent has also been reputed to be involved in the Peals brand. Don't know who makes their italian footwear.
 

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I purchased a pair of Peals last year. My internet sleuthing found a thread that postulated one row of nails on the heels was CJ while two was AS. My pair was the 240 last which I was able to discover was made my CJ and is similar to their 236 last.

I haven’t found anything comprehensive; you just have to research the specific last and hope.


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^Some decades back, I'm pretty sure Edward Green made the Brooks-Peal shoes. Alas, those days are long gone. I have had some Brooks salespeople tell me that the Peal shoes are made "in our Peal factory in England"--I don't know whether they were being merely ignorant or downright mendacious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The retail store also said they are discontinuing AE manufactured shoes all together. Based on the number of Shoebank BB shoes I assume QC and too many returns. That said I would expect further discounts on what is left.


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Is anyone aware of a way to tell who manufactured a particular shoe, as well as the last? I am likely purchasing a suede long wing at 25% off next week. I don't mind paying more for a shoe I can try on in the store. I can purchase more at an online retailer with that info.
Is this the shoe?

Interesting sole, but the double row of nails on the heel and taller "Peal" font for the logo almost certainly mean it's made by Alfred Sargent. Probably some variant of their Shoreditch or Stepney designs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I changed my mind in store and purchased a calfskin Peal by C&J -all I can say is WOW in comparison to the AEs in my closet. Now I just need to decide whether to return the navy suede Alden that was a bargain. The AE boulevard sitting in my office is going straight to UPS today...


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I changed my mind in store and purchased a calfskin Peal by C&J -all I can say is WOW in comparison to the AEs in my closet. Now I just need to decide whether to return the navy suede Alden that was a bargain. The AE boulevard sitting in my office is going straight to UPS today...

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"WOW" is the typical difference between AE and any decent English make. ;)
 

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"WOW" is the typical difference between AE and any decent English make. ;)
Well, I've looked at some few C&J Benchgrades, and I never could see how they were worth any kind of significant premium over A-Es. However, nearly all my A-Es were acquired over a decade ago, so things may be different now. When you get up to Edward Green or JLP, yeah, there's a noticeable difference (as well there should be at such a price differential), but it won't be noticeable at more than five or six feet and even then only to an educated eye.

I recall once, while wearing a pair of A-E seconds I had purchased for $129, calling a co-worker over and showing him a similar pair of shoes from John Lobb St. James on my computer screen. I asked him how much more he thought they cost than the shoes I was wearing. He guessed, "Oh maybe $75." I informed him the Lobbs cost about $5,000. He was dumbfounded and said he had made a rather high estimate (he thought) because otherwise I wouldn't have asked him.
 

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Well, I've looked at some few C&J Benchgrades, and I never could see how they were worth any kind of significant premium over A-Es. However, nearly all my A-Es were acquired over a decade ago, so things may be different now. When you get up to Edward Green or JLP, yeah, there's a noticeable difference (as well there should be at such a price differential), but it won't be noticeable at more than five or six feet and even then only to an educated eye.

I recall once, while wearing a pair of A-E seconds I had purchased for $129, calling a co-worker over and showing him a similar pair of shoes from John Lobb St. James on my computer screen. I asked him how much more he thought they cost than the shoes I was wearing. He guessed, "Oh maybe $75." I informed him the Lobbs cost about $5,000. He was dumbfounded and said he had made a rather high estimate (he thought) because otherwise I wouldn't have asked him.
I stopped wearing AE's roughly 35 years ago after purchasing my first pair of English (Church's) shoes. Not wishing to engage in any superfluous AE bashing, I subjectively find the quality of make as generally apparent in the precision of finishing notably better. But equally important, the fits tend to suit me better, the materials are better and I prefer the styling. I have C&J via Peal, Church's, Alfred Sargent, Cheaney and Sanders and Sanders, as well as a couple older pair of Brooks' English Shoes, as distinct from Peal, and made by an unidentified UK maker. I've handled EG, but never purchased any.

And while certainly differences exist among these English makes, the virtues I describe are in large measure resident in all of them. Sanders is a particularly good value among English makers. And the four pair I have continue to garner unsolicited complements, as in "Grandpa, where'd you get those shoes!?" And this at a price markedly lower than AE's.

I've never bought John Lobb, but appreciate they are very fine shoes. I wouldn't be able to afford them if I wanted any. But no sour-grapes intended, they are, depending upon one's perspective, either among the most discreet or unprepossessing of English shoes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have very tall arches. Apparently AE fits those with flat feet. I can’t lace any balmoral very well - the 4 pairs of AE that I have. The C&Js however fit like a glove in that particular last, I believe a 341. It appears that many of the European shoemakers have lasts that will fit better.

That said I enjoy the approximately 10 pairs of Allen Edmonds that I have and will continue to rotate them regularly but just a few months ago would not have considered a foreign maker. Just another step in a 4 year progression for myself.


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I have very tall arches. Apparently AE fits those with flat feet. I can't lace any balmoral very well - the 4 pairs of AE that I have. The C&Js however fit like a glove in that particular last, I believe a 341. It appears that many of the European shoemakers have lasts that will fit better.

That said I enjoy the approximately 10 pairs of Allen Edmonds that I have and will continue to rotate them regularly but just a few months ago would not have considered a foreign maker. Just another step in a 4 year progression for myself.

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That was one of the problems that I too had with AE's lasts.

And I agree that many European shoemakers tend to make their shoes with higher insteps. And I've found Alfred Sargent particularly generous in that regard.
 

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Purchased a pair of Peal labeled Scotch grained boots from Brooks some years ago in one of their sales, I'm certain they are C&J Conistons. Can't speak to who makes for them these days. As foe A&E, they are either loved, hated or just don't like, put me in the latter category.
 

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Not to hijack but for a peal branded CJ coniston would you resole by CJ nyc or b Nelson. Thanks
C&J NYC sends the shoes back to England. Unless I have unimpeachable confidence (hard to establish) in a cobbler, I want the shoemaker to do the work. It is perhaps slightly more bother to send them home, but you live with the results for years.

I say this knowing that B Nelson has a great reputation.
 
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