Men's Clothing Forums banner
1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an opportunity to get a MTM Brioni jacket on the cheap and I was wondering if anyone on the site had a sense for how shoulder structure varies by model. In my experience, Palatino has light padding, Nomentano is cut a little small in the shoulders with light-medium padding, and Tiberio usually has more padding. Is the amount of padding totally independent of the model, or is there some correlation? If there is a correlation, do you think it only applies to OTR and not MTM? I'm just curious. I prefer a bit more structure in the shoulders, given my large head. I wear a 40 short (5'9", 160 lbs, with 9" drop), but I need at least a 19 inch shoulder to balance out the size of my head, hence the need for a bit more structure in the shoulders. Any observations based on experience would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
91 Posts
Brioni Shoulders

In my experience all Brionis run tight in the shoulders relative to size, and the big shoulder structure seems to be the issue. So I would investigate upsizing if your shoulders run broad as mine do.

I am a Canali 44L, but find I wear a Brioni 48L in both Palatino and Nomentano for this reason. Long ago, my very first Brioni--bought without much self-confidence or knowledge-- was a 46L, and after wrestling with its tight shoulders for five years, I had my tailor pull 80% of the padding out and do a light shoulder recut. The result was a better fit, and a spalla camicia shoulder line that looks natural. While I certainly wouldn't recommend tearing a Brioni apart electively, it did save this one suit from disuse.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top