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Brioni custom made??

10K views 31 replies 15 participants last post by  Orsini 
#1 ·
I am new to the whole idea of custom made, and even brand name suits in general so I have a question that may be kind of crazy so hopefully someone can shed some light on it for me. I am in the market to purchase a new suit, so I go to a suit shop in town looking for something with the look of the brioni suits that pierce brosnan wears in the james bond films. This store does not carry brioni suits but the store owner said he could have me a suit made with brioni fabric for around 1500.00. Knowing the price of brioni suits this sounded a little cheap to me. He said it would be brioni fabric but would not have a brioni label on it, it would have his stores label. He said this would be possible with brioni, armani, or zegna fabric. Is this something I should consider, or is this even possible?? Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Sort of possible....

y'see often, in fact most of the time, the top tailors and designers all get there fabric from the same cloth merchants.

These for the main part are: Loro Piana, Dormeuil, Scabal, Holland and sherryy Moxen, Zegna etc (I know I have missed some more obscure ones)

Theorectically you could get the same fabric from these guys and erm, just not mark it up loads.

But here is the rub. Often Designers get exclusive cloth made for them by these guys in which case you can't get it. Also with Brioni for example, they do use very expensive fabrics so it's probably not marked up as mad as one may think: several of these guys sell cloth at around 1000 pounds a meter!

These very expensive fabrics are great if you are a millionaire or have a lot of suits. If you are building up your custom wardrobe I would recomend Loro piana tazmanian or Dormeuil Amadeus cloth. They are great mid to high end fabrics which are good to actually wear and run around in.

If I was you I would ask your tailor to show you some samples so you know where the fabric is coming from, that way he won't (easily) sub it for something cheap.

$1500 does seem rather cheap for what I would consider a good cloth like the Tazmanian and Amadeus. It's almost completely ridiculous to get better cloth than that and a suit for the price he is talking about.
 
#4 ·
I would ask to see his previous work for other customers. If he does not have an example or two in his shop, ask for references and talk to them first.

As this is your first post, I suggest that you do some research prior to having any suit made. You state "custom made" which can me anything from made-to-order (MTO), made-to-measure (MTM) or fully bespoke. Learn the differences and determine exactly what you want.

Do you have any OTR suits? Are you a close fit? What is your reason for custom? Find a decent OTR suite which fits and is on sale. Have it tailored, wear it for a while and get to know what you like and don't like about it.

Samuelsohn makes some very nice MTM suits in many styles and fabrics for reasonable prices. Check their web site and look for a nearby retail shop or one of their traveling trunk shows. Remember -- fit is more important than fabric.

Hope this helps,
AD
 
#5 · (Edited)
Cloth merchants also may sell remainders of runs or tailors may have suit lengths that customers ordered then declined. I bought some Dormeuil Royal 12 (through my tailor) this way. There was just enough for a two piece suit and when I decided to get a vest as well he found a length of the same run in Paris via the internet.

Royal 12 is much less expensive than Amadeus but, even so, it was more expensive than the OP's hope.

SRW
 
#6 ·
Brioni uses fabric made by Scabal, and yes, one can get a Scabal suit for this price. I would definitely ask for a sample suit to look at before you buy, but while you may not get an exact match of the patterns Brioni uses, you can get a suit with the same quality of material. I know clothing. I own a Brioni suit. I also bought a handmade suit made with Scabal fabric for under $1000 from Astor & Black (astorandblack.com).
 
#9 ·
Brioni uses fabric made by Scabal, and yes, one can get a Scabal suit for this price. I would definitely ask for a sample suit to look at before you buy, but while you may not get an exact match of the patterns Brioni uses, you can get a suit with the same quality of material. I know clothing. I own a Brioni suit. I also bought a handmade suit made with Scabal fabric for under $1000 from Astor & Black (astorandblack.com).
You keep mentioning suits you have made by Astor & Black. Could you please show some quality pictures of these suits? Because I haven't seen any, and no one on here besides you has any experience with them.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Walk away from a clown who tells you he can make a Brioni fabric suit

Brioni makes different ranges of suits...not fabric

As others noted, Brioni uses various well known cloth makers

Brioni has different ranges of suits
They have a RTW line which is outrageously overpriced
They have a "Custom" (read MTM line) is which way overpriced and almost on pricing par with Kiton
They have a bespoke operation which is pricier than other Italian bespoke tailoring houses....this is 6 times your budget but you can choose any fabric you want.

Find a bespoke tailor in your area, he'll have access to good cloth and can make you a suit based on your desires and your unique frame. If you like a particular Brioni cut, some tailors might try a crack at copying or even improving on it

Pierce Bronson might've worn Brioni for the Bond films, but his personal tailor is Gianni Campagnia

$1500 could score you some RTW stuff from Gabor Halmos stuff (note he's also the U.S. rep. for Vass shoes
https://stores.ebay.com/Sartoriale

Brioni has marketed themselves very well. They are a factory with an ancillary bespoke operation. For your first suit, I would shy away from Brioni. Once your wealth increases and your need for better suits correspondes with your stature, Brioni is one of many choices you can choose from
 
#14 ·
Thanks all for the information about this. The next question I have is, many on this forum talk about how great the cut of a brioni suit is. Does this mean the cut of the off the rack suits or any suit made by a brioni tailor?
I like the cut of Brioni; however, you have to take into account some cuts do not suit some people and some people do not like particular cuts.

Most, if not all comments about the Brioni cut is about their 'off-the-rack' suits and blazer. There may be a slight difference between the individual blazers and suit blazers, but I have only tried the former (a number of times :icon_smile_big:), just a shame they cost £2.2k.
 
#17 ·
Well, it sounds like you're not entirely clear on what you want. You said you want a James Bond-esque suit. What exactly attracts you to it, the fabric, the fit, the style? I'm sure all of those can be replicated with some degree of success through a $1,500 MTM program. The fit will be the biggest challenge, so make sure that you see what some of their completed suits look like first.

If you want the Brioni brand, it's obviously going to cost a lot more, and the quality of an actual Brioni suit may be higher, although not necessarily.

I don't think the salesperson is trying to trick you, but trying to guide you in a certain direction since you're abit unclear about what you want.
 
#20 ·
many on this forum talk about how great the cut of a brioni suit is.
Whether a cut is good or not is dependant on your body type. From what I've seen, Brioni seems aimed at heftier middle-aged men. I remember seeing a Brioni ad in a magazine featuring an athletic, slim model. The clothes were incredibly baggy and swimming on him, and fit horribly, despite being photoshopped to look slimmer, and posed in such a way it would make it harder to judge the fit.

For a guy like Pierce Brosnan, they probably did is bespoke to fit his exact shape, and not RTW. As far as I can tell, there is no distinct "Brioni look", so I would be open to other companies that can make a similar suit cheaper
 
#22 ·
Whether a cut is good or not is dependant on your body type. From what I've seen, Brioni seems aimed at heftier middle-aged men. I remember seeing a Brioni ad in a magazine featuring an athletic, slim model. The clothes were incredibly baggy and swimming on him, and fit horribly, despite being photoshopped to look slimmer, and posed in such a way it would make it harder to judge the fit.

For a guy like Pierce Brosnan, they probably did is bespoke to fit his exact shape, and not RTW. As far as I can tell, there is no distinct "Brioni look", so I would be open to other companies that can make a similar suit cheaper
Yes there is a typical Brioni look. A very 'heavy' prominent shoulder. Very business-like. I'm 30 and I wear Brioni. I don't think they're baggy at all, I'm athelic built but they're perfect on me. The cut is almost perfect. I think they actually flatter your physique too. And for sure I'll get some more of their incredible garments in the future.
 
#23 ·
The tailor should have been more clear really. He can you take people like that seriously. Very amateur-ish. Sounds like a guy that wanted to make a quick buck.
Maybe the OP misunderstood.

The only was to judge to the tailor is if the OP gets to talk to the tailor about fabric, style, etc.

For example, I walked pasted Lodger Footwear the second day it was open and I was not impressed by the design and the incomplete look. I was in London on a Saturday and thought I should make a visit. I talked with Nathan for over an hour, he showed me their CAD machinel we talked about their shoes, the styles I like, Savile Row and shoes in general.

I also went in at a lunch time, because I was thinking of getting something in their RTW range. Again, I got a chance to speak to Nathan and we talked about their RTW range and the styles they will bring out and what I want in my rotation.

If I did not have the first chat, I would have never given them a second thought.
 
#24 ·
Yes there is a typical Brioni look. A very 'heavy' prominent shoulder. Very business-like. I'm 30 and I wear Brioni. I don't think they're baggy at all, I'm athelic built but they're perfect on me. The cut is almost perfect. I think they actually flatter your physique too. And for sure I'll get some more of their incredible garments in the future.
Second. They are not baggy, it may look baggy on some people; however, I have tried on at least 4 different Brioni blazers and none of them looked baggy on me, they fit really well. I like the heavy shoulder style.

The only issue is the cost, £2.5k for a suit and £2.2k for cashmere blazer. I could get a bespoke suit for £500 more from the big boys of Savile Row (claiming back the VAT) or a bespoke cashmere blazer for about the same price if not less. However, why go to SR for a Brioni cut, when you can go to Brioni.
 
#25 ·
Maybe the OP misunderstood.

The only was to judge to the tailor is if the OP gets to talk to the tailor about fabric, style, etc.

For example, I walked pasted Lodger Footwear the second day it was open and I was not impressed by the design and the incomplete look. I was in London on a Saturday and thought I should make a visit. I talked with Nathan for over an hour, he showed me their CAD machinel we talked about their shoes, the styles I like, Savile Row and shoes in general.

I also went in at a lunch time, because I was thinking of getting something in their RTW range. Again, I got a chance to speak to Nathan and we talked about their RTW range and the styles they will bring out and what I want in my rotation.

If I did not have the first chat, I would have never given them a second thought.
Exactly my thoughts. It's all about communication. Besides you should be able to trust your tailor. I myself feel that I'm not ready to go bespoke yet. I need to study and understand the tailoring proces some more before I pick my tailor. I might in 2010.
 
#26 ·
Exactly my thoughts. It's all about communication. Besides you should be able to trust your tailor. I myself feel that I'm not ready to go bespoke yet. I need to study and understand the tailoring proces some more before I pick my tailor. I might in 2010.
The only time you should trust a tailor is if you really trust what he or she is saying. If you something is not right or that you disagree on important factors, then go somewhere esle

I have spoken to some people and if I think something is not right, I do not go back.
 
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