[Peak and Pine]

(...because there may be a part II)

A discussion is being held today, 11.29.21, about breast pocket flaps in (of all places) the Clothing illustrations thread. Since I happen to be working on one at the moment (the moment being six days ago and will get back to it some time some day) (Was to be for Thanksgiving, now for next Thanksgiving) thought I'd share a short series of pics, and these will illustrate the points made in the other thread, by me, about size, placement and parallelograms of breast pocket flaps.

The first is the cloth, a close-up of a stand-alone semi tweed jacket I own that's being regroomed...

I bought this exclusively for the cloth and the colors, not the style or fit, both of which require work. Below is the first workings of the breast pocket flap, which may be incomprehensible, so stare at it really good and I'll explain...

Obviously no extra fabric comes with a ready-made jacket. So I have snipped pieces from the interior (and replaced with compatible weight, tho non matching, fabric). The picture above shows two snippets placed over the breast pocket forming an exact pattern match (important) tho in a necessarily crazy, un-tailored shape. Look at it again. Below, the flap template (an index card cut free-hand in the shape and size wanted) is laid over the patch work. Actually, the template will be placed beneath the patch work and the cloth sewn around it. The template stays as part of the pocket, and were this to be a working flap, which it's not, I would have lined the reverse in satin.

These are in-progress pics and and the breast pocket flap is one of a number of modifications being done/added to this particular piece. I put them up to show the slight rightward tilt of the flap and the size as well as the parallelogram shape, highlighting the strict vertical lines of the ends. Unlike the one below which sparked this discussion.

 

[smmrfld]

Neither the in-progress flap nor the camel one are a good look IMO. Much cleaner appearance without the unnecessary flaps. Purely subjective, however.

 

[Peak and Pine]

^^^.
l would imagine many here feel as you do, so you can dump on the effort, or do a Dionne Warwick and just Walk On By.

 

[smmrfld]

^^^.
l would imagine many here feel as you do, so you can dump on the effort, or do a Dionne Warwick and just Walk On By.

I've done neither. Opinions are allowed here (as you often express yours) if they are presented within forum guidelines.

 

[215339]

What fun is it if I don't derail at least one thread every so often?

My mind works in tangents and distractions. I love talking about other clothing topics in particular threads if the discussion flows well!

Do you have a picture of the part of the jacket you decided to snip off? I am curious to see that surgery.

Neither the in-progress flap nor the camel one are a good look IMO. Much cleaner appearance without the unnecessary flaps. Purely subjective, however.

If I had a choice, I wouldn't choose the flaps for the same reason. Obtrusive and distracting. I would just go for a regular welt pocket. There is more room for fun details on other parts of a coat that aren't as distracting.

The camel coat's flaps I didn't find too distracting though. The massive flap lays flat, most flaps jut out awkwardly.

It also looks consistent with the generally sporty nature of the coat, and shows more nice swelled edges.

 

[eagle2250]

^^^.
l would imagine many here feel as you do, so you can dump on the effort, or do a Dionne Warwick and just Walk On By.

Regardless of the level of appeal of the selected design features, I find myself consistently blown away by your sartorial creativity with design features and your ability to take and convert those concepts into reality with a needle and thread! Count me as impressed.

 

[127.72 MHz]

^^^.
l would imagine many here feel as you do, so you can dump on the effort, or do a Dionne Warwick and just Walk On By.

How could I ignore a reference to the one and only Dionne Warwick? Every note out of her mouth is sublime.

Opinions? A flap on a breast pocket is not my cup of tea. Fact is, one of my favorite features on commissioned Jackets and coats are hip pockets that can be both flap and jetted. (I leave hip pockets jetted 90+% of the time.)

That being said, your focus on the subject is evident and I admire your remarkable attention to detail.

 

[Matt S]

I see some support is needed here. I'm a big fan of flapped breast pockets, though I don't have any because that would involve something bespoke. Some day I will. The only downside is no pocket square, but the pocket flap makes up for it in interest.

Here are a few of my favourite examples from film and television:

(two flapped breast pockets)

This one slants the other way to follow the shoulder and hacking pockets.

 

[Vecchio Vespa]

I developed my feelings on flapped pockets by trying to reconcile J. Press OCBDs and fountain pens during the post- Brooks/pre-O'Connell's years when I was still working and shopped a lot at Press. They are certainly sharp looking on certain jackets and coats.