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braces/suspenders for trousers

8838 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Bog
i had my black-tie trousers made without being cut for braces/suspenders (or a belt). they originally sat on my waist very well, but now not quite that much as i've lost a little weight.
is it possible to have them fitted for braces now? are there any recommended tailors to go to in london? i've got an ede & ravenscroft where i'm at (cambridge, uk), but i've had no experience with it.
thanks!
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also, i have no idea how to go about choosing a pair of braces.
what criteria does it have to meet?
do braces come in specific sizes or are they of the adjustable one-size-fits-all variety?
also, i have no idea how to go about choosing a pair of braces.
what criteria does it have to meet?
do braces come in specific sizes or are they of the adjustable one-size-fits-all variety?
When you purchase braces, they come with buttons. Have an alteration person sew in the buttons and you're set. Most braces are adjustable and they do not have to match anything, since no one will ever see them.

A gentlemen never removes his jacket in public!
When you purchase braces, they come with buttons. Have an alteration person sew in the buttons and you're set. Most braces are adjustable and they do not have to match anything, since no one will ever see them.

A gentlemen never removes his jacket in public!
What kind of a world do we live in where people have go to a tailor to get buttons sewn on? This is a 5 minute job!
are the buttons sewn to the inside or outside of the waistband?
where exactly should the buttons be placed--how far apart should the two in the front be, and how deep into the trousers should they go?
You get buttons with the braces from Albert Thurston (the ones to get are the black or white moiré with braid ends). Sew them on yourself. The ones at the front: one button directly above the pleat/crease and one 2-2.5" to the side. Back buttons 2.5-3" apart. Sew them on the inside (if you use real horn or MOP buttons, they go on the outside). The buttons should just reach the edge of the waistband or be slightly inside or the central line but no deeper.
A note about brace buttons of which you may or may not be aware: their function is completely different from all other buttons on your clothing. With shirts and coats and pants, it's the button that does the work; with brace buttons it's the thread. Use thick thread, or regular thread but with more passes. Sew the button with the brace strap in place, else insert a stick match or similar under the button when sewing, to allow a space for the brace strap.
A good measurement for brace button placement: an index card cut to a length of 2 1/2 inches. This is a proper distance from waist-front-center (the fabric edge on the button-hole side) for the first button, and the proper distance from that for the second button. Do similar on the other side of the fly. A notch cut in the card at the half-way point (1 1/4") serves as a register mark (placed on rear center seam) for the back buttons.
With shirts and coats and pants, it's the button that does the work; with brace buttons it's the thread.
Dunno about freshfood, but I certainly hadn't known this. Can you elaborate?

(The only think I can think of is that brace button thread may be subject to more abrasion than other button thread. Is that what you mean?)
Dunno about freshfood, but I certainly hadn't known this. Can you elaborate?

(The only think I can think of is that brace button thread may be subject to more abrasion than other button thread. Is that what you mean?)
Most buttons involve very little pressure on the threads. Braces buttons are under more stress, which stress is really borne by the thread which fastens the buttons to the pants rather than the buttons themselves. In contrast, the threads of shirt buttons receive hardly any more stress when the shirts are buttoned as opposed to unbuttoned. Not so for braces buttons.
Well, sure. The way I would state this is that with braces buttons, both the button and the thread are under more stress. (I know it's the thread that usually fails, but obviously more stress in the thread means more stress on the button, too.)

Taken literally, Peak's "button VERSUS thread" description suggested that with most buttons one really didn't need the thread, and with braces one didn't really need the buttons! :icon_smile_big:
Posted by Peak and Pine said:
With shirts and coats and pants, it's the button that does the work; with brace buttons it's the thread.
KURT said:
I certainly hadn't known this. Can you elaborate?
Certainly. Elaborate is my middle name.

With a shirt button, the object is strictly to keep the shirt closed. The button, inserted into the hole and twisted, does this. There is no gravity involved. A brace button on the other hand serves only as a tying point for the thread and to keep the brace strap from slipping off. But the thread of the brace button becomes like a tiny girder to hold the pants up against the force of gravity, the force of up-and-down movement and the force of an often large ass. I know this because I majored in buttons in school.
Speaking of brace buttons, here's something you might consider. Or make fun of. Your choice.

It's sometimes discussed here the anguish of putting the buttons inside or outside. What to do, o what to do. You could do both. Front inside, rear outside. Why? Because you could use a more striking button on the outside, but to prevent over-showiness you would put them just on the rear. Something like this perhaps:



But not something like this:



I own the top one. Here's a close-up. It's new, Victorian in design and cost $2.75 each, now attached as a pair to the rear of a charcoal PRL.
With a shirt button, the object is strictly to keep the shirt closed. The button, inserted into the hole and twisted, does this. There is no gravity involved. A brace button on the other hand serves only as a tying point for the thread and to keep the brace strap from slipping off. But the thread of the brace button becomes like a tiny girder to hold the pants up against the force of gravity, the force of up-and-down movement and the force of an often large ass. I know this because I majored in buttons in school.
The only thing I would add here is that there have been times when my collar button and the waist button on my chinos would protest that if we're talking about stress, they deserve to be classed with the brace buttons.

Speaking of brace buttons, here's something you might consider. Or make fun of. Your choice.
You make it sound like either-or. In this kind of situation, I generally prefer both. :icon_smile_big:

It's sometimes discussed here the anguish of putting the buttons inside or outside. What to do, o what to do. You could do both. Front inside, rear outside.
Aha! See, you think as I do. Now, the other place I saw the inside/outside suggestion, the guy said it should be the back ones that are inside, so they don't catch on stuff. (Actually, what he worried about was marring the leather seats on his Rolls: https://www.bownsbespoke.com/albertthurston.htm.) But he's a snob and a twit, whereas you are a charmingly abrasive eccentric, possessed of a genuinely free-thinking and innovative spirit. Reason enough to consider your suggestion. That plus the fact that you've actually tried it. (And you haven't had those back buttons snag on stuff?)

The other thing I've wondered about is whether buttons in front on the outside makes more sense when you're worried about waistband roll due to the geometry and forces set up by the presence of an oversized gut. With the buttons inside, waistband creasing and roll seem more likely. With this I have some, ahem, personal experience.
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Actually, what he worried about was marring the leather seats on his Rolls: https://www.bownsbespoke.com/albertthurston.htm.
If he keeps his jacket on, I don't think her would marr the seat of the car the least bit. On the other hand, having the buttons on the inside, might marr own's own seat.
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