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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I'm looking to make my first purchase for a good blazer. I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions.

Background: I have three good suits.

Two of the suits are from BB's MTM program -- one is navy and one is charcoal herringbone. Both suits fit well, but they are far from perfect. I've noticed that the bottom of the jacket isn't even (the back is higher than the front). I suspect that this is because with MTM they are essentially sewing together different pieces and they don't always line up perfectly. Also, it doesn't lay perfectly flat across my chest. More specifically, it hangs off of my pecs rather than laying flat across them. Finally, the jackets have a tendency to not lay flat across the back of my neck. After moving around a bit, the jacket comes off by about 1/2 an inch. Not a big deal, but these are the flaws that I have noticed.

My other suit was fully canvassed and custom made by Paul Chang here in Chicago. It is a navy chalk stripe using Dormeuil's Amadeus fabric line. It fits close to perfect, and I love it.

Current Mission:

I could use BB's Golden Fleece MTM program, but I'm not confident that BB could fix the problems that I have with my current suit jackets for the blazer. I suspect the problems that I have with their suits are inherent to the MTM process. I believe the price for a Golden Fleece blazer is around $1400. Any thoughts?

If I go with Chang, for about $1400, I can have a blazer using the Dormeuil Amadeus fabric line or something similiar. And, I can be pretty confident that I will love it.

There are a number of other shops in Chicago, but aside from the genius on Oak St., the other shops seem to get mixed reviews. Also, I suspect that I need to stay custom otherwise the current problems I have with MTM may still occur, regardless of where I go.

You may be thinking that I'm being pretty stupid for thinking of passing up an option that will definitely work. My issue is that I have fun with this whole process. I like checking out new things. Granted, I don't want a messed up blazer, but I like buying around if there are decent options.

Any thoughts/suggestions?

Thanks
 

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If you're getting your first blazer, I recommend it be a SB navy one (maybe you're already thinking along those lines). It seems the concept of paying for quality doesn't scare you off. Considering a navy blazer is (or should be ) the backbone of a man's wardrobe, I recommend you get one with every intention of owning for a long, long time. As such, have you considered Oxxford?
 

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I could use BB's Golden Fleece MTM program, but I'm not confident that BB could fix the problems that I have with my current suit jackets for the blazer. I suspect the problems that I have with their suits are inherent to the MTM process. I believe the price for a Golden Fleece blazer is around $1400. Any thoughts?
You could show BB the issue with your suit jacket and tell them you don't want a blazer if it's going to suffer from the same problem. If they say they can make a blazer the way you want, go ahead and order it. If it comes in with the asymmetry you dislike, then return it for a refund. It would be their fault. I have returned a(n) MTM blazer to BB before, so I know it can be done.
 

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I don't know why you went to BB mtm in the first place ....

My BB Regents fit as well as any mtm made by BB, or any other mtm program. I will admt that I am tall and slim and few alterations are required on my rtw suits. The first thing I would try is the BB Country Club Blazers. They come in both sb and db models. Mine, in both models, fit escellently. They are made of super 139 LP, and will only run about $600 retail. If you need mtm, by all means, buy it. But it just isn't a requirement for many of us. Fit, of couse, is of primary concern, but I am of the opinion that a slim person in rtw looks better than a bulky individual in mtm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I should have explained that off the rack isn't an option for me. I have a 46 chest and 36 waist, but the real difficulty is that my biceps are 19". I have yet to find an off the rack 46" suit/blazer that fits my arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you're getting your first blazer, I recommend it be a SB navy one (maybe you're already thinking along those lines). It seems the concept of paying for quality doesn't scare you off. Considering a navy blazer is (or should be ) the backbone of a man's wardrobe, I recommend you get one with every intention of owning for a long, long time. As such, have you considered Oxxford?
I'm looking to stay under $1500. As I understand an Oxxford, blazer is likely (far) more than that.
 

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I'm looking to stay under $1500. As I understand an Oxxford, blazer is likely (far) more than that.
Yes, they are. Burberry, Paul Stuart and PRL might be worth a look...though I do no know anything about their MTM programs. Several tailors (as does mine) have access to "private label" MTM programs. It's not quite like going bespoke, but you'll at least get access to quality goods and get fitted by someone who knows what he/she is doing. That might be worth checking out as well.
 

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Hey all,
Two of the suits are from BB's MTM program -- one is navy and one is charcoal herringbone. Both suits fit well, but they are far from perfect. I've noticed that the bottom of the jacket isn't even (the back is higher than the front). I suspect that this is because with MTM they are essentially sewing together different pieces and they don't always line up perfectly.
You may be mistaken in your assumption of proper suit jacket construction. The front is usually a bit longer than the back. Read Flusser's Clothes and the Man.

If the collar of your jacket is standing away from the back of your neck, the jacket does not fit you properly through the shoulders. A competent tailor can diagnose and fix that problem.

Brooks Brothers is not all it is cracked up to be, IMHO. They charge 50% more than a comparable Hickey Freeman. The store sells a Trad image and most of their sales people don't know anything about fine suit construction. They do a very good job of sporting attitude. As Patsy of AbFab would tell them, "Give it up darling, you work in a store."

I find BB to be too cookie cutter. A good men's store stocking and selling Hickey Freeman should be able to provide you with great value and selection for a lot less than BB.
 

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Any garment is made from a number of pieces of cloth sewn together, but perhaps I am missing your point.

I would take those suits that don't fit properly back to BB and ask that they be tailored so that they do fit properly. I think a good fit is a reasonable expectation with a MTM suit from a well known maker.

I have puchased a number of MTM suits and sport coats from Carroll & Co. and made by Samualsohn. One of the last ones I bought developed a roll under the collar after wearing it a bit and it is currently back at Carroll's being fixed at no charge or fuss of course.

Back in the days when I wore RTW, I bought my clothing from a men's store with a tailor (or two) on the premises and other than cuffs and jacket sleeves, fixing the collar problem that you describe was the only thing I needed done for a good fit. There was never a charge to do that operation to fix the collar standing away from my neck which I understand to be fairly routine for a good tailor.

I would think you would want BB to fix the problems that you have with your two suits before you order another garment from them - I sure would. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You may be mistaken in your assumption of proper suit jacket construction. The front is usually a bit longer than the back. Read Flusser's Clothes and the Man.

If the collar of your jacket is standing away from the back of your neck, the jacket does not fit you properly through the shoulders. A competent tailor can diagnose and fix that problem.

Brooks Brothers is not all it is cracked up to be, IMHO. They charge 50% more than a comparable Hickey Freeman. The store sells a Trad image and most of their sales people don't know anything about fine suit construction. They do a very good job of sporting attitude. As Patsy of AbFab would tell them, "Give it up darling, you work in a store."

I find BB to be too cookie cutter. A good men's store stocking and selling Hickey Freeman should be able to provide you with great value and selection for a lot less than BB.
I detailed my first visit to Chicago's Hickey Freeman store in another threat. Its funny because after visiting their store I decided to use them for my blazer. Then I arrived home and read your post and I totally agreed with your post before reading it!
 

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its evident the boys at BB dont know what there are doing.

go home wit the guy what brung you to da dance.
if it aint broke dont fix it.
dont change horses etc etc etc.

you have one good result so do it again.
 
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