[fishertw]

I too like the Orvis Ultimate Khakis, however I do like pleated and the trimmer version does not come in a pleated model. That's what I would prefer, although I have not tried the non pleated trim model. Maybe time to try one or two.

 

[fishertw]

UGH....you got me excited! I just went to J.Crew site... the pants are there, but not the size. I need big boys pants: 40x32.
Good recommendation though. I bought a blue OCBD @ J.Crew circa 1980, in Philadelphia.,,at a time when OCBD's were hard to come by.

I recall being very excited in about 1980, as you say, finding a couple of OCBD's in a Sears outlet store and thought I had found a gold mine. Like you say, they were hard to find in thatn era.

 

[fishertw]

I know this is a little old, but I will also chime in. I couldn't agree more about All American Khakis and Berle. By way of background, as a fellow with an ample midsection, options are frustratingly limited if you want quality pleated khakis in larger sizes with a long rise. Brooks Bros. and Polo have options which will do in a pinch, but neither come close to AAK and Berle IMHO. And these observations will apply whether you need big and tall sizes, regular sizes, short rise, long rise, etc.

AAK - to answer Mike B's question, I've ordered their Cramerton twill, Sea Island poplin, and corduroy. All three have been excellent. The Cramerton is probably their heaviest weight cotton trouser (like Bill's of old, I suppose); it wears exceptionally well, and their relaxed fit is very generous. The poplin fabric, available in the standard colors as well as a couple of really cool colors like blue and nautical red, is very lightweight and perfect for spring, summer, and fall (around north Ga., anyway). Corduroys were also excellent. Same good construction on all of them. All made in the USA about two hours east of Atlanta.

But the real prize of AAK is its customer service when dealing with Walt, one of the owners. This company takes real pride in its work, and Walt is truly amazing to deal with. Since they don't stock my size, I've specially ordered their trousers many times with no issues. When they ran out of a couple of corduroy fabrics in which I was interested (which they used to make trousers for one of their corporate clients), I talked with Walt, ordered the fabric directly from the mill in England, had it shipped to AAK, and Walt & AAK made them up for me. They even made me a couple of pairs of briar pants for quail hunting, even though they haven't made those in years (they still had the pattern). The absolute best treat was actually touring their factory one afternoon, going through some of their old fabrics with Walt, and picking out some to be made up.

I really can't say enough good things about AAK. Great pants, great customer service, all for a fair price and made in the USA. Can't beat it.

Berle - Berle has also been excellent. Their long rise Self-Sizer Performance Khakis were my go-to khakis for several years. Great construction, great fabric, great customer service. Although I've purchased more from AAK than from Berle recently, Berle is right up there with AAK in terms of fabric and construction, and I am actually looking to buy a couple of pair from them soon.

Best of luck!

AF

While I am not normally a fan of reviving old posts--- this one helped immensely. I checked out the Camerton Twill pants from All American Khakis and after conversation with "Walt" there, ordered two pair of the pleated (which are not on their website sue to low stock) khaki colored pants. When Bills first made Cramerton Cloth pants I bought some and love the weight. I also have a particular affinity to the mill that they came from in Cramerton NC.Working with my dad in the mid 60's I helped him install commercial air conditioning in the Cramerton Mill in Gaston County NC. His family had migrated from Lincoln County where they had been share croppers into the textile mill as spinners, warpers, doffers, etc. When my dad returned from the Army after WW11, he became a plumber and pipe fitter and rose to job foreman overseeing many of the mill air conditioning jobs in the south (NC, SC, Ga and Alabama). The air conditioning made the cloth run better. I am now a retired university administrator who had opportunities due to my dads persistence and his union membership and I have now once again connected with Cramerton Cloth. Just a bit of family history here. Tom

 

[fishertw]

All of this talk of khakis is making me feel behind the times and fearfully inadequate. I have one pair of twill khakis, one pair of stone poplins, and one pair of olive cotton gabardines, all from O'Connell's. I have not even tried Jack Donnelleys yet and here I find the world has moved on to All American. No more change for at least five years!

Moving on only because Bills ,like a number of other good brands, have ceased to produce quality goods.