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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice for my next couple suit purchases. I live in New York. This will be my first venture away from off the rack. I'm looking to purchase three suits for right around $10,000 US total. With that said my questions are as follow:

1. From reading this forum I understand that SR full bespoke begins somewhere between $4K and $5K for one suit so that seems to be out of my price range unless someone has a recommendation. So would one recommend MTM or a New York (or off SR) full bespoke? I was initially lured to SR just because of the name and mystique. However in the end I just want quality. Either way would appreciate names of the recommended tailors for full bespoke or MTM (depending on which you think is better) in the $3500 and under range per suit.

2. Also from reading it seems that different tailors make silhouettes that are better suited for different body types. I was originally thinking Kilgour MTM but a thread said that is not the way to go for someone with my body type. (V shaped body with 40 inch chest and 31 inch waist). Any recommendations here that stay within the aforementioned price range?

3. Lastly since I am just beginning to build my suit wardrobe I was thinking of navy, grey, and navy pinstripes for my three suit selections. Thoughts on this? I am in sales and the suits will be for business.

Thanks so much for the help
 

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You may be able to find a two piece suit for about the GBP equivalent of USD 3,500, given that you would not pay 17.5 % VAT (or get a refund).


Try Meyer & Mortimer. They travel to NY and I think their prices start at GBP 2,200, incl. VAT, full bespoke. That would include the vast majority of cloths you may be interested in (I have never paid an upcharge for a lounge suit.)

I can recommend them (no financial interest, just a satisfied customer). Tel: +44 (020) 77340656 or +44 (020) 77344358. They are on Sackville Street, a few steps from SR and members of the SR Bespoke Association (cf the site).

There may be other tailors of SR quality in the same price range but I have no experience.

Current USD/GBP rate is .558, GBP/USD: 1.79

Good Luck,

Frog in Suit
 

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I forgot to add that a competent bespoke tailor should be able to accomodate your particular physique. I suggest you discuss the fit/style with them beforehand (make sure you both have the same understanding) and take your time choosing the cloth. Above all, listen to their advice as you are unlikely to know as much as they. I certainly don't!

Frog in Suit
 

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You may be able to find a two piece suit for about the GBP equivalent of USD 3,500, given that you would not pay 17.5 % VAT (or get a refund).

Try Meyer & Mortimer. They travel to NY and I think their prices start at GBP 2,200, incl. VAT, full bespoke. That would include the vast majority of cloths you may be interested in (I have never paid an upcharge for a lounge suit.)

I can recommend them (no financial interest, just a satisfied customer). Tel: +44 (020) 77340656 or +44 (020) 77344358. They are on Sackville Street, a few steps from SR and members of the SR Bespoke Association (cf the site).

There may be other tailors of SR quality in the same price range but I have no experience.

Current USD/GBP rate is .558, GBP/USD: 1.79

Good Luck,

Frog in Suit
FWIW, £2,200 is $3,938, Meyer & Mortimer's starting price for a bespoke two-piece suit made out of entry level fabric (based on the following current exchange rates, of course: .558 for United States Dollar/Great British Pound and 1.79 for Great British Pound/United States Dollar).

In New York City, the lowest starting price for a full bespoke two-piece suit (made out of entry level fabric, of course) from a tailor that is of the same caliber as the Savile Row tailors (such as H. Huntsman, Gieves & Hawkes and William Westmancott, to name a few) is about $4,000 or $5,000.

Run4TheCup is looking to spend $3,500 for each of the three bespoke or made to measure suits that he is buying.

Kilgour is more than $500 above Run4TheCup's target.

The high caliber NYC tailors are at least $500 or $1,500 above his target (most high caliber NYC tailors are substantially more above his target than that).

Unless Run4TheCup is willing to travel to Seattle WA (which is where Gian DeCaro, who is a Savile Row caliber tailor in the OP's price range, is located) or Philadelphia, PA (which is where Joe Centofanti, who is also a Savile Row caliber tailor in the OP's price range, is located), the OP is probably better off with MTM from a quality clothing brand at a reasonable price such as Samuelsohn or H. Freeman.

Oxxford MTM might also be a good choice for the OP with a starting price of $2,700 for a MTM two-piece suit made out of entry level fabrics. Unfortunately, good fabrics push Oxxford's MTM price for a two-piece suit past (even well past) the $3,500 mark fairly quickly (which is also fairly or very easy to do).

It is not very easy at all (but not very difficult at all, either), however to push Samuelsohn's MTM price for a suit past $3,500, though the fabrics would have to be really good or, much more often than that, have higher thread counts (which are generally not good or very bad for everyday wear).

Pushing H. Freeman's MTM price for a suit past $3,500 is, in fact, very difficult to do.
 

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There is a big difference in cut between ....

an English suit and one made in New York (unless you find an English tailor). I would suggest, if you haven't already, reading 'The Suit' , then doing some research before purchasing. I would go to Paul Stuart in New York to see what they can do for you in mtm. In any event, their suits have an English bent, and you could try some on. Getting an 8 inch drop (40 to 32) should be possible in mtm, or possibly in rtw, if you try on the right
suit(s).
 

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Desmond Merrion is the tailor I would go to if I were you. He does splendid work and I think he is underpriced, which is good for you. If I remember correctly he has three prices; one is m2m which I would avoid because his regular bespoke isn't that much more and is worth more than every penny, the third is enough to buy a nice car.

https://www.desmerrion.com/

https://www.xe.com/ucc/

Gian DeCaro is not Savile Row caliber tailor. His father is from Italy, so Gian is more of Italian and American tailoring. Some people prefer Italian tailoring to Savile Row or other English tailoring, and there are many variations of Italian tailoring to choose from. And of course there are other tailors from other countries to select from. When choosing a tailor you want to be comfortable with them. The first suit is not as nice as the second and usually the third is better yet. The amount of fitting skills they put into your bespoke suits kinda makes m2m look dumb and some over priced. For your price range I would seriously consider Desmond Merrion. Somebody on the forums (Here, styleforum, london lounge and who knows where else) by the handel dopey has written much of value when it comes to bespoke and is well worth reading for those who do and intend to buy bespoke. Last piece of advise- only have one suit made at a time until your personal pattern is perfected, which is usually up to the third suit; this gives the tailor (cutter) time to reflect upon what he has done for you and how to make the next better, which includes stretching & shrinking and sewing and pattern adjustments. Have fun.
 

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Desmond Merrion is the tailor I would go to if I were you. He does splendid work and I think he is underpriced, which is good for you. If I remember correctly he has three prices; one is m2m which I would avoid because his regular bespoke isn't that much more and is worth more than every penny, the third is enough to buy a nice car.

https://www.desmerrion.com/

https://www.xe.com/ucc/

Gian DeCaro is not Savile Row caliber tailor. His father is from Italy, so Gian is more of Italian and American tailoring. Some people prefer Italian tailoring to Savile Row or other English tailoring, and there are many variations of Italian tailoring to choose from. And of course there are other tailors from other countries to select from. When choosing a tailor you want to be comfortable with them. The first suit is not as nice as the second and usually the third is better yet. The amount of fitting skills they put into your bespoke suits kinda makes m2m look dumb and some over priced. For your price range I would seriously consider Desmond Merrion. Somebody on the forums (Here, styleforum, london lounge and who knows where else) by the handel dopey has written much of value when it comes to bespoke and is well worth reading for those who do and intend to buy bespoke. Last piece of advise- only have one suit made at a time until your personal pattern is perfected, which is usually up to the third suit; this gives the tailor (cutter) time to reflect upon what he has done for you and how to make the next better, which includes stretching & shrinking and sewing and pattern adjustments. Have fun.
When I said "Savile Row caliber tailor", I meant high end, highly reputable and high priced tailor (which is what all of the Savile Row tailors as well as all of the tailors that are of the same caliber as all of the Savile Row tailors are).

In this specific case, caliber has nothing to do with cut, style or anything like that. Caliber has to do with what end of the spectrum (spectrum being high end, mid level or low end), reputation (highly reputable ranging from very good to phenomenal, moderately reputable ranging from adequate to good-decent would be the only thing between adequate and good and minimally reputable ranging from horrible or horrific to mediocre and non reputable either unknown or varying greatly or as greatly as anything can possibly vary) and price that a tailor (or, anything else, for that matter) is.

All around quality and service (be it construction, build or manufacturing quality, handwork and machine work combinations, fit, drapery comfort, appearance, performance, friendliness and tons and tons and tons of other aspects of quality and service-far too many to mention here, I am afraid), location, demand and supply are the biggest (or only) role players to the caliber of anything, be it a tailor, a vehicle brand, an electronic brand or anything else that is conceivable.

In all of the above regards, Gian DeCaro is just as high end and highly reputable if lower to significantly lower priced (but still pretty high priced overall) than all of the Savile Row tailors and just as high end and highly reputable if lower to significantly lower priced (but again, still pretty high priced overall) than all other tailors anywhere off the row (be it, Italy, the United States of America, Australia or anyplace else other than London, England) that are high end and highly reputable.

In fact, other than price, Gian DeCaro is no different than the rest of the high caliber tailors in terms of being high end and highly reputable (but, yet again, still pretty high priced overall).

Perhaps Gian DeCaro being located in Seattle, WA allows him to charge less to significantly less than other high caliber tailors charge.

Gian DeCaro may or may not use less handwork and more machinework (and may or may not be a bit lower quality) than other high caliber tailors while still using far more handwork than machinework (but still very good to phenomenal quality) overall.

Or, maybe Gian DeCaro has a demand versus supply ratio that allows him to charge less to significantly less than other high caliber tailors.
 

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Feel free to discount my opinion as I've never been up-close-and-personal with an NYC or SR bespoke suit.

However, I have several RTW suits from Paul Stuart main line (Samuelsohn-made) as well as several bespoke suits from Rizzo Tailors (Joe Caulatti) in Cambridge, MA (Harvard Square).

Joe makes suits for John Kerry and Teddy Kennedy, as well as for Drew Gilpin Faust, Harvard's first female president (I don't know that this last one is a badge of honor).

Joe's prices are great. $2K for Minnis 11-oz worsted, $2.5K for any worsted Lesser cloth. Loro Piana, Scabal, and Dormeuil are also $2K.
I don't know how much Minnis or Lesser are on SR, but I expect they are well above "entry-level cloth" that makes a $4K SR suit.

Anyone else who is familiar with Rizzo may be able to enlighten me as to why his prices are so low for such great cloth and work, but I recommend him highly and in terms of quality I really don't see what more one could possibly get in an SR suit which costs 2.5x the price.

The first suit he made me was perfect, and I've gone back for two more suits after that, plus for major alterations on other pieces. Joe offers 3-4 fittings (first one basted, last one to make sure all is okay before he cuts button holes). Very clean fronts on his jackets, so if you want drape be warned that drape isn't really his style (that might be my only gripe).
 

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FWIW, £2,200 is $3,938, Kilgour's starting price for a bespoke two-piece suit made out of entry level fabric (based on the following current exchange rates, of course: .558 for United States Dollar/Great British Pound and 1.79 for Great British Pound/United States Dollar).
i think you are confusing kilgour's entry-level bespoke program vs. entry level fabric choices
 

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Forex conversion

FWIW, £2,200 is $3,938,
If you had read and understood my post you might have seen, as I clearly specified, that Meyer & Mortimer's price of GBP 2,200 was inclusive of VAT (17.5 %). At 1.8 USD per GBP, less VAT, you can get a three piece suit for the rough equivalent of USD 3,500. Please feel free to recalculate if you are unsure.

That would cover the vast majority of cloths on offer. I make a point of not commenting on firms if I have no direct experience. Tastes and preferred style may differ of course, and I would never presume to dictate.

Frog in Suit
 

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Hey everyone,

Looking for some advice for my next couple suit purchases. I live in New York. This will be my first venture away from off the rack. I'm looking to purchase three suits for right around $10,000 US total. With that said my questions are as follow:

1. From reading this forum I understand that SR full bespoke begins somewhere between $4K and $5K for one suit so that seems to be out of my price range unless someone has a recommendation. So would one recommend MTM or a New York (or off SR) full bespoke? I was initially lured to SR just because of the name and mystique. However in the end I just want quality. Either way would appreciate names of the recommended tailors for full bespoke or MTM (depending on which you think is better) in the $3500 and under range per suit.

* * *
3. Lastly since I am just beginning to build my suit wardrobe I was thinking of navy, grey, and navy pinstripes for my three suit selections. Thoughts on this? I am in sales and the suits will be for business.

Thanks so much for the help
Since you are starting a wardrobe, I recommend using a New York tailor or store over a visiting English tailor. First, you will have a shorter delivery time. Second, you will be able to get quick alterations and repairs. When you have a bigger wardrobe, then you can wait anywhere from 4 months to 6 months or longer for an English suit to be delivered.

If you wanted an "English look" and did not want to pay for full bespoke, Len Logsdail has a MTM program.

I recommend an extra set of trousers since these will be your "foundation" suits which will be worn often. Your selections are fine.

You should pick a tailor/shop based upon whether you feel comfortable with its clothes and its personnel. E.g., if you wanted an Italian look I do not think that the Ivy League look of a J. Press or Chipp would meet your needs.

My own personal recommendation is the Oxxford Store regarding service, quality, selection of cloth, variety of cuts, individualization of the pattern and garment, etc. See George or Tashae. If he's available, Mike Cohen, the CEO, will help you. (He has his office on the second floor of the shop.)

Do some exploration on your own. If it's a small shop, talk to the owner. If it's a big shop, talk to the manager or head of MTM. Make sure that you are both "on the same page."

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone for the help. It seems that a New York tailor is probably in my best interest right now. In response to some things I read, it seems that my price range of $3500 per suit is right on the border between quality MTM and low-end full bespoke. Should I step up and pay the extra $500 per suit for low-end full bespoke or stick with MTM? I would definitely not be willing to go above $4000 per suit but would like to hear everyone's thoughts on whether low-end full bespoke is worth the extra $500.

Once I have made the decision between low-end full bespoke and MTM I'll have to pick a tailor. I have an athletic build so I'm thinking I need to go with more of an "Italian cut." I'd also like a power look with a touch of contemporary flair if that makes sense. Logsdail seems to be more English traditional so I'm thinking Oxxford if I pick MTM may be my best bet. I don't know if Oxxford is William Fioravanti enough though. Any thoughts? Also, if I step up to $4000 per suit who would you suggest for SR calibre bespoke in New York? Thanks for the help
 

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What are you trying to accomplish besides getting nice suits? Are you a difficult fit? Are you looking for a certain type of fabric? If so, what fabric? Are you concerned that your styling criteria can't be met with MTM? Is it snob appeal to be able to say your suit is bespoke? Of course, there is always going to be "better" but $10,000 for 3 suits, you have A LOT of options!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What are you trying to accomplish besides getting nice suits? Are you a difficult fit? Are you looking for a certain type of fabric? If so, what fabric? Are you concerned that your styling criteria can't be met with MTM? Is it snob appeal to be able to say your suit is bespoke? Of course, there is always going to be "better" but $10,000 for 3 suits, you have A LOT of options!
I'm just trying to figure out whether to go full bespoke or MTM since I've never done either. I do not know if I am a difficult fit. I am not looking for a certain type of fabric. I am concerned that the quality of MTM and the fit of MTM is not as good as low-end full bespoke so it is not for snob appeal. Just trying to determine the best I can do for $10,000 for 3 suits. That's the exact problem that there are too many options!
 

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I'm just trying to figure out whether to go full bespoke or MTM since I've never done either. I do not know if I am a difficult fit. I am not looking for a certain type of fabric. I am concerned that the quality of MTM and the fit of MTM is not as good as low-end full bespoke so it is not for snob appeal. Just trying to determine the best I can do for $10,000 for 3 suits. That's the exact problem that there are too many options!
I think the best thing you can do is to pick one and try it - don't do all 3 at once :)
 

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I don't think Desmond Merrion is a low class tailor because a number of his customers have gone to "high class tailors" before coming to him, therefore he is worth the money and your time.

Going to m2m first and then working up I think is a stupid idea, because it is a waste and your not really saving any money, so you might as well start out better. Another reason is many people have said that bespoke is so much more comfortable. Since you are wearing the clothes why be uncomfortable? (Most people don't even have a clue they are very uncomfortable in their clothes, because that is all they have worn, so don't know there is so much better). And if the price is the same it is foolish to be uncomfortable. In my experiance there is no way that less than bespoke is comparable to bespoke. Not only does bespoke look better, feel better, it also last longer, because it moves with you (friction wears out cloth). Unlike off the rack and m2m- bespoke is very flexible to change at the first fitting because the seams are not permanent and are expected to be moved for fitting and the desires of customer. M2M isn't even in the little league as comparable to the big league that bespoke is in. Instead of rummaging through a bunch of patterns as m2m will do trying to figure out which is best for you a bespoke tailor will take your measurements and will make a far more precise pattern for you and then he will do fittings fine tuning, whereas, m2m will leave you with a cumbersome garment that sorta looks nice. I will say not everybody who hangs a shingle saying bespoke or custom tailoring is one or worthy to hang a shingle.
 
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