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As a Southern California high school devotee of the “Ivy League” look and a Phelps Wilger/Phelps Terkel shopper in the '60s, I lost my sartorial way for the past few decades. Now, my Turnbull & Asser and Armani suits need a rest as I return to trad. Today I stopped by the Beverly Hills BB store and was surprised at the plethora of suppressed waist suits and the absence of sack suits in 40R. I was interested in purchasing two sack suits, dark blue and dark grey. Total sacks: none. In lieu, the BB store manager "Mr. Habib" offered two suits he described as being from the “select program”, being suits made in the U.S.A. by BB-owned Southwick (1/2 canvas) for $1,881.25 plus tax in “Brooksease” fabric or for $2,187.50 in “Estero” fabric. These were described to me as not being hand-tailored MTM suits but rather off-the-rack suits crafted to my specifications. Frankly, after being disappointed by a MTM suit by a Savile Row tailor, I am rather nervous about buying sight-unseen and wonder if the price is right, or wrong. Any opinions about this BB offer? Should I wait for my J. Press catalog or other options?
 

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Brooks offers Select as well as full made to measure. Select is a stock single--its a stock suit run off the line one time. So its a 42R and a 35R pants--or whatever size you need. You pick out the model (Regent, Fitzgreal, Madison), and some basic style points--please or plain, 2 or 3 button. And choose the farbic. When the suit arrives in store, you still have to have all the alterations done.

That said, I'm 90% sure you can still get the basic Brooks Ease sack seperates in navy and charcoal off the rack for $598. Your sales associate should be able to call around and locate one for you. Also, they ahve a couple nice sack tweeds this fall: An olive herringbone, a tan donegal, and a brown windowpane. Probalby suits as well. The yhad an awesome grey glenplaid 1818 over the summer, and your sales associate could probably track one down for you.
 

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J. Press will be a better bet.

BB in NYC (346 Madison) will ship (sack) suits they have in stock.

It seems that you are stuck with shopping via mail (but the downside is just the price of return shipping, much less than being disappointed in the suit you own). Also, those prices quoted by the sales person for "select program" seem to be in $900-$1000 range. You should be able to get a suit from BB or Press cheaper. There is a 25% off sale right now at BB.
 

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The grey glenplaid sack was on the website at a discount, I think $698, but there were only a few sizes left. I asked about one for myself since it's the suit I wanted for my wedding, but no dice. I was really hoping I could get one over the weekend at the F&F price.

If you can find one in your size, it's a great looking suit.
 

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That seems awefully marked up. Those seem like Greenfield MTM prices from here.

Select shouldn't be $1900 in Brooksease fabric when Brookease is less than $700.

My 3 piece sack Select suit is my favorite.
 

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If it's sack suits you want, I vote for J. Press as well. I have a ten-inch drop, so sack suits make me look like a monolith. I never saw suits that were as unflattering to my shape as the ones I tried on at Press in DC.

If you want to stay with Brooks, look at their web site, or call New York, Philadelphia, or DC. Have them send you what you want and then take it to your local store to be altered (unless you have a tailor you prefer).
 

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If you aren't interested in going with the Select route, ask Mr. Habib to get in some OTR sacks from other stores for you to look at. There should be several out there, including the gray and navy Brooksease, in your size. He should be happy to oblige. The Select program, though, is a great way to get a wider selection of fabrics and details than is normally available OTR.
 

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https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=85891

https://shop.oconnellsclothing.com/

O'Connell's should be on your list of places to shop if you want a sack suit. Depending on your size and what is in stock, you may be able to get a fully canvassed sack that is nicer that what Brooks or Press have for $500-700. If you don't mind spending $900-$1000, they have old stock sacks by Oakloom/Hilton that look very, very nice.

For a bit more money, Samuelsohn can make you an MTM sack to your specs.

OC also stocks ready to wear Samuelsohn, but I'm not sure if they carry suits by them in year round fabrics or just fall/winter suits and sportcoats.

My advice would be to call OC and ask for Ethan. Make sure you confirm measurements on any suit you order and compare those with an existing well fitting suit. I found that I needed to go up one size in a particular type of suit because they ran a little small compared to modern suits. This won't be true for suits by every manufacturer they stock, but I thought it would be worth mentioning.
 

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Best I recall, the Brooks Select program offered a variety of options, including patch pockets, lap(ped) seams, hook(ed) vent, and 1/4" (or, if they're still Southwick made, probably 5/16") stitching. If those details matter, then go for it.

Southwick offers all those options, which is why I remain a big--no, huge--fan of their MTM program. I wonder if, now that Southwick is owned by Brooks, the Select program fabric options will grow.
 

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If you fit well into a stock BB 40R, Select is a good route to go. You pick your jacket size, trouser size, jacket style (3-button high-roll darted, 2-button darted, 3/2 sack), pocket style (patch or inset), lapel stitching, maybe vent (hook or no), flat front or pleated trousers, maybe on- or off-seam trouser pockets, and a small handful of other things. All off the top of my head, so I could be wrong about a thing or two.
 

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Brooks just expanded thier Select to include the entire University and Loro Piana Four Seasons MTM books, and most of their Saxxon line is available in the old Select book. There's a few huntder fabric choices probably.

Best I recall, the Brooks Select program offered a variety of options, including patch pockets, lap(ped) seams, hook(ed) vent, and 1/4" (or, if they're still Southwick made, probably 5/16") stitching. If those details matter, then go for it.

Southwick offers all those options, which is why I remain a big--no, huge--fan of their MTM program. I wonder if, now that Southwick is owned by Brooks, the Select program fabric options will grow.
 

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Brooks just expanded thier Select to include the entire University and Loro Piana Four Seasons MTM books, and most of their Saxxon line is available in the old Select book. There's a few huntder fabric choices probably.
How 'bout that. Good news. The University fabrics look great. Best I recall there was a fine looking medium grey swatch.

I'm going to ask about the patch pocket options.
The quest for the Mogambo continues.
 

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As a Southern California high school devotee of the "Ivy League" look and a Phelps Wilger/Phelps Terkel shopper in the '60s, I lost my sartorial way for the past few decades. Now, my Turnbull & Asser and Armani suits need a rest as I return to trad. Today I stopped by the Beverly Hills BB store and was surprised at the plethora of suppressed waist suits and the absence of sack suits in 40R. I was interested in purchasing two sack suits, dark blue and dark grey. Total sacks: none. In lieu, the BB store manager "Mr. Habib" offered two suits he described as being from the "select program", being suits made in the U.S.A. by BB-owned Southwick (1/2 canvas) for $1,881.25 plus tax in "Brooksease" fabric or for $2,187.50 in "Estero" fabric. These were described to me as not being hand-tailored MTM suits but rather off-the-rack suits crafted to my specifications. Frankly, after being disappointed by a MTM suit by a Savile Row tailor, I am rather nervous about buying sight-unseen and wonder if the price is right, or wrong. Any opinions about this BB offer? Should I wait for my J. Press catalog or other options?
Wow, that was a long time ago that Dave Phelps and Rod Wilger opened up their shop in Westwood. I can't remember when it was that they split up and Rod opened Wilger & Co. around the corner and across the street from Mark's Boots and the Hamburger Hamlet, all of which are gone now.

I can't give you any advice or even opinions on the BB Select program, but as an alternative you might talk to JB about MTM suits at Carroll & Co. which is only a couple of blocks east of the Beverly Hills BB store.

I wrote quite a bit about the topic in Andy's Fashion Forum - topic: M2M/Bespoke question
https://askandyaboutclothes.com/community/showthread.php?t=87217

See post #9.

Cheers, Jim.
 
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