[Sir Kurokodairu]

Dear Stylish Gentlemen,

TL;DR: Would you rather have your custom shirts made at Lee Baron with Thomas Mason fabric, or Ascot Chang with their house fabric at essentially the same price (USD ~150)?
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Long time forum lurker here, stepping out of the comfort of the shadows for the first time, determined to brave any hardship that may come. I hope I could get your valuable opinion, despite my newcomer status and low post count

My question is one of trade-off between workmanship and fabric quality. Looking to have a few custom shirts made in Hong Kong, I surveyed several custom tailors, namely Ascot Chang, A-Man Hing Cheong, Tai Pan Row, William Yu, Empire International Tailors & Lee Baron.

Preferring to keep my budget within HKD 1,200 (USD ~150), and several factors (such as forum opinion, online rating, sales staff knowledge, attitude/willingness of sales staff, confidence each shop gave me, etc.), I decided to go with Lee Baron, using a high-end fabric like Thomas Mason. On second thought, Ascot Chang makes shirts with their house fabric for around the same price (USD ~150). Not knowing the degree of difference in fabric quality between Thomas Mason and Ascot Chang's house fabric, and in workmanship between Lee Baron and Ascot Chang, I am asking for your opinion to help me decide. Other suggestions are also welcomed!

Thank You!

 

[Flanderian]

Sorry, I have no first-hand experience with either maker, and have been out of the bespoke shirt market for a long time. But I have little doubt that your choice will yield beautiful shirts. I would expect that purchasers from the two makers would benefit from their high quality competition in such close proximity.

I'm only familiar with Chang by reputation and through the photos on their blog, but am entirely ignorant concerning Lee Baron. My experience with two different shitmakers in the past has convinced me that even though they may provide whatever details their customer wishes, each shirtmaker's shirts possess a unique flavor in fit and style that is specific to that shirtmaker. And I've found Ascot Chang's to be among the more appealing.

So if you were struck by what you saw from Lee Baron, I suspect you'll be well pleased.

 

[Woofa]

Having never been in the market for such, I would just offer you general advice. It is my understanding that having ordered and been fitted once, you can place further orders online or by phone with small adjustments at that time.
Why not get one (or two) from each maker and wear them for for a few weeks. Then you can make your choice with first hand knowledge and experience of each. Unlike a bespoke suit, the investment in time and money, while not inconsequential, would seem to be a reasonable outlay to guarantee you get the best shirt for you.
Good luck and please bring us updates.

 

[TheBigOne]

Dear Stylish Gentlemen,

TL;DR: Would you rather have your custom shirts made at Lee Baron with Thomas Mason fabric, or Ascot Chang with their house fabric at essentially the same price (USD ~150)?
---
Long time forum lurker here, stepping out of the comfort of the shadows for the first time, determined to brave any hardship that may come. I hope I could get your valuable opinion, despite my newcomer status and low post count

My question is one of trade-off between workmanship and fabric quality. Looking to have a few custom shirts made in Hong Kong, I surveyed several custom tailors, namely Ascot Chang, A-Man Hing Cheong, Tai Pan Row, William Yu, Empire International Tailors & Lee Baron.

Preferring to keep my budget within HKD 1,200 (USD ~150), and several factors (such as forum opinion, online rating, sales staff knowledge, attitude/willingness of sales staff, confidence each shop gave me, etc.), I decided to go with Lee Baron, using a high-end fabric like Thomas Mason. On second thought, Ascot Chang makes shirts with their house fabric for around the same price (USD ~150). Not knowing the degree of difference in fabric quality between Thomas Mason and Ascot Chang's house fabric, and in workmanship between Lee Baron and Ascot Chang, I am asking for your opinion to help me decide. Other suggestions are also welcomed!

Thank You!

I wore a shirt this morning that I bought from Ascot Chang in New York in 1997 (there is a tag inside that gives the year made). It's still stylish and the colors hold after countless launderings. Blue muted plaid. I did have them replace the frayed collar and cuffs about 8 years ago with white. I have called them and ordered shirts without going in since my original measurements and style remain the same. They made a tux shirt for me last year. But, my recollection is that I pay about $1200 for 4 shirts. Since these shirt bodies last for ever, the predominant style in my closet is "white collar and cuffs".

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[cloth_guy5]

@Sir Kurokodairu,

Howdy! I have no experience at all with any of the businesses you mentioned. However, I have had all my dress and sport shirts made bespoke for the last several years (by a shirt maker here in the U.S.) so maybe I can be of a little bit of help. I am completely unfamiliar with Chang's house fabric so I can't comment on that. However, I have several shirts made in Thomas Mason fabrics. It's great stuff, somewhat thicker, and I doubt you'll be disappointed. The suggestion by member @Woofa to have one or two shirts made by each tailor is excellent advice. The caveat is if that's possible. From my experience, if you're a first time customer, there will be a minimum number you must buy. Mine was six but I planned on purchasing more anyway so it didn't really matter at the time. A bespoke shirt maker normally isn't going to do all the measurements, draw up a pattern, and then perform a series of fittings for a shirt or two. I have no idea though regarding your tailor choices so go ahead and ask! If they will do this, it seems to be a great idea to see how they compare. Either way, once the tailor has all that out of the way, in the future you can normally just order one at a time. If your body changes a bit usually minor tweaks are all that is needed. Also, and once again this is just me speaking, I would be somewhat cautious about getting into high thread counts. I keep mine 2 ply and in the 80 to 120 range. I've had a few in the higher numbers and they feel fantastic. For lack of a better analogy; it's like wearing butter! However, at least in my experience, I also noticed much less durability and much higher wrinkling. Additionally the cost goes up in a hurry...a big hurry! Therefore, you're putting out a lot of money for a shirt that probably isn't going to do well if worn regularly. Once again though that's just my experience and others may have different opinions. Overall, my best advice is to enjoy yourself. The bespoke shirt process is a load of fun so make the most of the experience! Also, ultimately buy what makes you happy while at the same time listening to your tailor. If he or she makes a recommendation there is probably a good reason for it so it's probably in your best interests to pay attention to their recommendations. Please check back in and let us know how it turns out! Good luck and have fun.

 

[Sir Kurokodairu]

Dear Gentlemen,

As an update, I ended up giving Lee Baron a try, since I really liked the Royal/French Oxford Thomas Mason cloth I saw.

My only concern is with the shirt's fit in the back (both upper and lower), which I have taken photos of here: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...ats-and-slim-fit-co-exist-for-a-shirt.239971/. This concern has me wondering if I should give Ascot Chang a try, but I'm not sure if what I'm asking for is unreasonable.

I am generally very pleased with every other aspect, although I don't think they are technically bespoke? Basically, after my measurements were taken, the final shirt was produced on my next visit. Therefore, many modifications (anything to do with enlarging) were not possible after that. I am not sure if this type of service should be classified as MTM instead, although they were generous in making alterations 3 times after that.

I was pleased with every other aspect in terms of the fit (shoulders, sleeves, chest, waist), the construction ("medium-stiff" fusible on the collar and cuffs, "light" fusible on the placket), and the details (semi-spread collar, collar measurements - point length, front band height, rear leaf height, tie space), double barrel mitered cuffs, MOP buttons, hand-sewn buttons with shank, monogram size and font).

Thanks again for your opinion. Cheers!