[Harvard'10 Summa]

I'm looking to replace my current navy blazer. I got it from J.Press nine years ago. It was amongst their cheaper ones (made in China).

I'd like a fully canvassed one, but none if the ones I can find have gold brass buttons. I'm a size 38 and prefer trim fit (i.e. not sack).

I was interested in the Hardwick but their site doesn't say if they're full or half canvas. The Cambridge fit from the Andover shop looked nice but it's just listed as "canvass" with no specification.

 

[TomKnighton]

I can't help with a full-canvassed one, but is there some reason you can't just swap out the buttons for brass ones? I'd imagine it wouldn't be a difficult job for even just a semi-competent tailor.

If nothing else, it's a possible Plan B in case your search is fruitless.

 

[Watchman]

You may consider going MTM. You can get a nice full canvassed blazer which meets your specs custom made from H. Freeman.

 

[tirvine49]

I have no idea how they were constructed, but I have a summer blazer and a doeskin blazer, both from O'Connell's. The summer one is a Southwick, and the Doeskin hails from Canada. I found buttons I like online for the Doeskin, and my tailor put them on quite nicely, quickly, and affordably. I vote for the button replacement solution. Did you save the buttons from the Press blazer? Weren't they bright brass?

 

[Watchman]

Yes, I also like the idea of button replacement. The simple act of reimagining the buttons can cause a good jacket to be elevated to exceptional jacket with minimal work.

Case in point, during the pandemic lockdowns, I noticed Brooks Brothers was liquidating their old stocks of USA and Italian made suits and blazers. The 1818 line has always been good for the money. Well, I was able to procure a single breasted Saxxon wool (no longer available) for a song...

Seriously, I think I paid well under $300. I believe this jacket is made by Southwick. Anyway, I did not fancy the brass buttons on this particular jacket. I wanted something different. So, I ordered some brown MOP buttons and had them installed:

^This is a pic of the actual buttons. They are fantastic. I find myself drawn to this BB blazer and now have a particular affinity for it because of the buttons.

The moral of the story is you have the opportunity to procure a wardrobe piece which will bring you a certain satisfaction and will serve you for many years. Take your time, shop around and don't be afraid to spend a little extra for the blazer which suits your fancy. (no pun intended)

Cheers!

 

[Watchman]

I have no idea how they were constructed, but I have a summer blazer and a doeskin blazer, both from O'Connell's. The summer one is a Southwick, and the Doeskin hails from Canada. I found buttons I like online for the Doeskin, and my tailor put them on quite nicely, quickly, and affordably. I vote for the button replacement solution. Did you save the buttons from the Press blazer? Weren't they bright brass?

All of OC SC and blazers are full canvassed unless otherwise specified. The OP specifically said he did not want an undarted jacket...

Nevertheless, JPress and OC both will custom order a blazer which meets his specs.

 

[Eligius]

I'm looking to replace my current navy blazer. I got it from J.Press nine years ago. It was amongst their cheaper ones (made in China).

I'd like a fully canvassed one, but none if the ones I can find have gold brass buttons. I'm a size 38 and prefer trim fit (i.e. not sack).

I was interested in the Hardwick but their site doesn't say if they're full or half canvas. The Cambridge fit from the Andover shop looked nice but it's just listed as "canvass" with no specification.

I don’t believe that Hardwick will be full canvassed based on my exposure at local spot, although I did not ask and am not sure. I think the last RTW traditional navy blazer with gold buttons that was reliably full canvassed was the BB Golden Fleece from Martin Greenfield. I also am not sure about the one you saw at Andover Shop, but I suspect it is half-canvas. Almost all RTW Southwick was half canvassed at least recently. My Andover and J Press RTW jackets made by them were, as have been those from successors like Empire at J Press. I have never bought an O‘Connell’s sport coat but would find it highly likely that their store brand line is half canvas, as they were using similar suppliers. As of late 2019, Andover was using Samuelsohn for their MTM, and they would certainly make this, but its pretty expensive. I doubt Samuelsohn has a RTW blazer with gold buttons. It is possible that Oxxford may do this RTW, and I believe Neiman Marcus carries some of their RTW. Perhaps some other high end places do too. Ironically there are many other manufacturers who make all of their jackets full canvassed (Ring Jacket, Italian brands like Belvest and many others), but I don’t think any do a traditional jacket with metal buttons. As others have said, you could buy one of these and swap out with your current jacket’s.

 

[Watchman]

I don’t believe that Hardwick will be full canvassed based on my exposure at local spot, although I did not ask and am not sure. I think the last RTW traditional navy blazer with gold buttons that was reliably full canvassed was the BB Golden Fleece from Martin Greenfield. I also am not sure about the one you saw at Andover Shop, but I suspect it is half-canvas. Almost all RTW Southwick was half canvassed at least recently. My Andover and J Press RTW jackets made by them were, as have been those from successors like Empire at J Press. I have never bought an O‘Connell’s sport coat but would find it highly likely that their store brand line is half canvas, as they were using similar suppliers. As of late 2019, Andover was using Samuelsohn for their MTM, and they would certainly make this, but its pretty expensive. I doubt Samuelsohn has a RTW blazer with gold buttons. It is possible that Oxxford may do this RTW, and I believe Neiman Marcus carries some of their RTW. Perhaps some other high end places do too. Ironically there are many other manufacturers who make all of their jackets full canvassed (Ring Jacket, Italian brands like Belvest and many others), but I don’t think any do a traditional jacket with metal buttons. As others have said, you could buy one of these and swap out with your current jacket’s.

OP can get H. Freeman to make a MTM jacket to his specs for around $800 delivered...

 

[Eligius]

OP can get H. Freeman to make a MTM jacket to his specs for around $800 delivered...

That is a good deal!

 

[vonSuess]

Agree it's best to have one made. Might be a good time for custom buttons, as well...

 

[some_dude]

I have an H. Freeman navy blazer. It is a favorite of mine, especially for travel.

 

[Watchman]

May I suggest this fabric? I recently commissioned a 3-piece suit in the sister fabric called “Royal Blue Melange” and I can give first hand account to the quality of this fabric. Phenomenal in every way. Reminded me of military uniform grade material. Very substantial and robust with a nice hand and visual sheen. Pics don’t do this fabric justice:

Cheers!

 

[Troones]

Here’s my contribution to this project. Blazer buttons from Benson & Clegg. I have this very set and the OP could do a lot worse than these beauties..

 

[Theoden]

Call the Andover Shop and ask them, it's most probably fully canvassed, if not they'll tell you. They seem to have an excellent variety at a good price.

J. Press is half-canvassed for their ready to wear, for made to measure they do fully canvassed.

If you don't need a sack jacket, try Hickey Freeman and get a fully canvassed jacket. Try this one or this one. These are both fully canvassed. I think you can get a better deal than paying full retail for a Hickey Freeman. Some shops will have sales. They don't have the brass buttons, though.

You can always order brass/gold buttons online and have a local tailor swap out the ones on your blazer if you don't like them. You can get them inexpensive or pricey. If you're planning on getting your blazer online, you're going to need a tailor to make some adjustments anyway, so why not the buttons?

Where do you live? If you're in the NYC area, you can drop by LS Men's Clothing and they may have a fully canvassed off-the-rack blazer they'll tailor for you or make you a fully canvassed made-to-measure one for a reasonable price from an American manufacturer (H. Freeman, Coppley or Hickey Freeman).

I'm sure H. Freeman probably has a made-to-measure program with a Men's clothier in your area.

Best of luck.

 

[Harvard'10 Summa]

Call the Andover Shop and ask them, it's most probably fully canvassed, if not they'll tell you. They seem to have an excellent variety at a good price.

J. Press is half-canvassed for their ready to wear, for made to measure they do fully canvassed.

If you don't need a sack jacket, try Hickey Freeman and get a fully canvassed jacket. Try this one or this one. These are both fully canvassed. I think you can get a better deal than paying full retail for a Hickey Freeman. Some shops will have sales. They don't have the brass buttons, though.

You can always order brass/gold buttons online and have a local tailor swap out the ones on your blazer if you don't like them. You can get them inexpensive or pricey. If you're planning on getting your blazer online, you're going to need a tailor to make some adjustments anyway, so why not the buttons?

Where do you live? If you're in the NYC area, you can drop by LS Men's Clothing and they may have a fully canvassed off-the-rack blazer they'll tailor for you or make you a fully canvassed made-to-measure one for a reasonable price from an American manufacturer (H. Freeman, Coppley or Hickey Freeman).

I'm sure H. Freeman probably has a made-to-measure program with a Men's clothier in your area.

Best of luck.

I live in the Boston area.

 

[Theoden]

I live in the Boston area.

Then....by all means call the Andover Shop and see if those blazers are full-canvass. While you're on the phone with them, open the subect of Made-to-Measure if they refuse to talk pricing on the phone, then perhaps you can chat with them when you are shopping for their ready to wear blazers in person, assuming they are full-canvass. You can go down and try them on. I assume they will tailor them for you, too.

--Alan

 

[Harvard'10 Summa]

Then....by all means call the Andover Shop and see if those blazers are full-canvass. While you're on the phone with them, open the subect of Made-to-Measure if they refuse to talk pricing on the phone, then perhaps you can chat with them when you are shopping for their ready to wear blazers in person, assuming they are full-canvass. You can go down and try them on. I assume they will tailor them for you, too.

--Alan

Andover Shop is half-canvas. I rang up the shop.
There's a tailor called Mosher in the area who works with Hickey Freeman and Oxxford.

 

[Harvard'10 Summa]

OP can get H. Freeman to make a MTM jacket to his specs for around $800 delivered...

Where can I get HF MTM for that cheap?

 

[Theoden]

Where can I get HF MTM for that cheap?

H. Freeman is based in the Philly/Maryland area and Hickey Freeman is based in Rochester, NY. They are different companies. Both are excellent American brands.

You can get a nice fully canvassed H. Freeman jacket tailored by LS Men's Clothing in that price range, maybe for less but they are in NYC. I don't know who in the Boston area works with H. Freeman.

If you come to NYC we can have lunch ;-)

Hickey Freeman MTM is generally more expensive than H. Freeman.

Oxxford is very, very. very expensive. Virtually everything they make is hand-sewn. Personally, I think it's a bit over the top. H. Freeman and Oxxford are owned by the same parent company, yet are at vastly different price points.

--Alan

 

[Watchman]

Where can I get HF MTM for that cheap?

Carl at 203-520-1161

Carl is one of us. He runs an online shop menssuitseparates.com

Carl is old school and down to earth. Give him a call or text him and he will work with you!

Tell him Joel from Ask Andy sent you!