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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings all,

So I'm going to the San Francisco Brooks Bros. next Friday for its Made-to-Measure event. I am planning on three suits in worsted wool, in charcoal, medium gray, and navy. Three-roll-two sack, with center vent and surgeon cuffs, and plain front trouser with 1.75" cuffs, brace buttons, and no belt loops. I was also thinking of getting vests with the charcoal and navy suits, so I could vary the look with a vest and bowtie on occasion.

What other details should I be considering? As for fabrics, I intend to look over the swatches and just go with the sturdiest worsteds I can find (I'm not a huge fan of high s-count fabrics). Does anyone have any suggestions re: fabrics (or other things)?

Thank you in advance for your advice, as always.
 

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The folks at the store should be able to give you good guidance on fabric. I'd recommend the Walterboro book (if it's still available; it may have been discontinued recently) or the English Clear Finished Worsteds book. There are others, but both of those are good, hearty fabrics that tailor well and don't really play the Supers game.

One note re: style--few know that BB has a 2-button sack option in the MTM program. That is, an undarted 2b jacket without the extra buttonhole on the lapel. Just an option, don't know if you want it or not.
 

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You might want to decide whether you want the vests to have lapels or not. I get my three piece suits made without vest lapels as I think that with lapels that area is visually pretty busy.

I can't think of anything else unless you want some special configuration of the interior jacket pockets.

Cheers, Jim.
 

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I like lapels on vests. When I wore waistcoaks they always had lapels. You are right about super #. Worseted fabrics in the 100/110 are the best for sturdy wear. Also stick to 11 ozs weight. If you can get fishtail backs order them. Wear bracers/suspenders when wearing vests. The trousers area looks cleaner. Also consider side tabs. When the order is finished recheck the order form to see if it contains everything you want. Before I moved to Savile Row Tailors, BB made my suits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you all for your advice. You've been very helpful.

I've scoured the relevant threads in this discussion board and come up with these details:

Jacket: Three-button sack, notch lapel rolled to the second button. Full canvass (if available). Natural shoulders (as natural as they'll give me), center vent, surgeon cuffs, inset flap pockets.

Waistcoat: Traditional six-button with notch lapels, satin back, and two jetted pockets.

Trousers: Plain-front, half-lined, with 1 3/4" cuffs. French bearer and zip-fly (I know button-fly is more trad but I prefer the zip). Fishtail back for the braces, side-adjusters, no belt loops.

Orgetorix: Thanks for the tips on fabrics. I guess I should be surprised if they don't have any good 10.5-11oz. worsteds in the book, so I'm not too worried.

Any other advice before my appointment with the tailor is very much appreciated. Thanks!
 

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An Interior Reading-Glasses Pocket

With some patience, they give me an extra inside breast pocket just right for the reading glasses I like. I get it to hold them without a case, that's your choice. I find I really
use it, whereas I don't use pen-pockets nor cigarette/cellphone (lower) pockets.

You might want to decide whether you want the vests to have lapels or not. I get my three piece suits made without vest lapels as I think that with lapels that area is visually pretty busy.

I can't think of anything else unless you want some special configuration of the interior jacket pockets.

Cheers, Jim.
 

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Thank you all for your advice. You've been very helpful.

I've scoured the relevant threads in this discussion board and come up with these details:

Jacket: Three-button sack, notch lapel rolled to the second button. Full canvass (if available). Natural shoulders (as natural as they'll give me), center vent, surgeon cuffs, inset flap pockets.

Waistcoat: Traditional six-button with notch lapels, satin back, and two jetted pockets.

Trousers: Plain-front, half-lined, with 1 3/4" cuffs. French bearer and zip-fly (I know button-fly is more trad but I prefer the zip). Fishtail back for the braces, side-adjusters, no belt loops.

Orgetorix: Thanks for the tips on fabrics. I guess I should be surprised if they don't have any good 10.5-11oz. worsteds in the book, so I'm not too worried.

Any other advice before my appointment with the tailor is very much appreciated. Thanks!
Sounds like you have a good idea what you want. All of the options you mention shouldn't be a problem. If you want full canvas, as well as certain of the other details (fishtail back, side adjusters), you'll have to go with the upper-level Golden Fleece MTM program, as opposed to the less expensive (but still very good) 1818 MTM program. Golden Fleece is well worth the $250-350 extra, though.
 

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I was just in BB today. There isn't a "golden fleece" MTM program, per se. There are just different swatch books for various fabrics. The "golden fleece" equivalent fabrics are around 2k per suit.

Also, great news for us BB AskAndy Corporate discount card holders. The 15% applies to BB's MTM. So, you don't have to wait for the MTM event.
 

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There is, in fact, Golden Fleece MTM. It's the better of BB's two levels of make in the MTM program. Golden Flece MTM is made by Martin Greenfield Clothiers in NY. It's fully canvassed and has a lot of hand tailoring. This construction is at least as good as what goes into the Golden Fleece OTR clothing.

The second of the two levels of make is the 1818/Makers MTM, made by Southwick. Half canvassed, and mostly machine-made.

Either of these levels of construction can be made with any grade of fabric. You can have entry-level fabric made up in the Golden Fleece program, or you can have much more expensive fabric made up in the 1818/Makers program.

For any given fabric, the price difference between the two levels of make is usually about $250-350.

Magogian, if the person you spoke to told you there's only one breed of MTM, either he didn't know what he was talking about or, possibly, he was referring to the Select special order (stock size MTO) program. Not all BB stores do true MTM.
 

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There is, in fact, Golden Fleece MTM. It's the better of BB's two levels of make in the MTM program. Golden Flece MTM is made by Martin Greenfield Clothiers in NY. It's fully canvassed and has a lot of hand tailoring. This construction is at least as good as what goes into the Golden Fleece OTR clothing.

The second of the two levels of make is the 1818/Makers MTM, made by Southwick. Half canvassed, and mostly machine-made.

Either of these levels of construction can be made with any grade of fabric. You can have entry-level fabric made up in the Golden Fleece program, or you can have much more expensive fabric made up in the 1818/Makers program.

For any given fabric, the price difference between the two levels of make is usually about $250-350.

Magogian, if the person you spoke to told you there's only one breed of MTM, either he didn't know what he was talking about or, possibly, he was referring to the Select special order (stock size MTO) program. Not all BB stores do true MTM.
Well, that is what they told me in the Michigan Ave. store in Chicago. Both my sales guy and Mario (the main tailor) said that. Perhaps this program you speak of is NY only? Or some sort of special?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
There is indeed a Golden Fleece MTM. I selected that option during my appointment at the San Francisco BB this past Friday. The suits are made by Martin Greenfield in NYC.

My experience during the appointment was excellent. I was assisted by Doug Blay, a BB "Made to Measure Specialist." I do not know if he is a trained tailor/cutter, but even if "just" a salesman he was a very knowledgeable and courteous one. We discussed what I wanted, and he knew the "trad" look and made a few good recommendations to me, before we started looking at fabrics.

If there was a weak link in the process, it was the fabric selection. I don't know if this is a recent development, but the only worsteds they had in the books were Loro Piana. The Walterboro and English Clear Worsteds books mentioned by Orgetorix in this thread were nowhere to be found. There were some non-Loro Piana books for tweeds and other fabrics, but for worsteds it seems that BB is pushing their relationship with Loro Piana in their MTM line. There was a Loro Piana representative there who was giving me the hard sell on 8 oz. 180s fabrics, and I told him twice that I wasn't interested, before finding something I liked. That said, I did find some decent 10 oz. Loro Piana worsteds in charcoal and navy that I expect should wear well, and an 8.5 oz medium gray that I'm cautiously optimistic about.

In the end, I decided against the fishtail trouser backs, but added lapped seams and a hook center vent to the list of details, as well as some colorful but tasteful silk linings for the jacket and waistcoat back. Overall, I was quite happy with the experience -- now the only thing that remains is the important part: the fitting and the results. :)
 

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Well, that is what they told me in the Michigan Ave. store in Chicago. Both my sales guy and Mario (the main tailor) said that. Perhaps this program you speak of is NY only? Or some sort of special?
Not at all. I've done several GF MTM suits for my customers at the store where I work here in Louisville.
 

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Glad to hear you had a good experience! I'm sure you'll be happy with the results.

As for the fabric issue, I know the Walterboro book was recently discontinued and re-issued; perhaps the SF store didn't have their new one on hand yet. Not sure about the other one. At any rate, though, it sounds like you settled on some fine fabrics!

There is indeed a Golden Fleece MTM. I selected that option during my appointment at the San Francisco BB this past Friday. The suits are made by Martin Greenfield in NYC.

My experience during the appointment was excellent. I was assisted by Doug Blay, a BB "Made to Measure Specialist." I do not know if he is a trained tailor/cutter, but even if "just" a salesman he was a very knowledgeable and courteous one. We discussed what I wanted, and he knew the "trad" look and made a few good recommendations to me, before we started looking at fabrics.

If there was a weak link in the process, it was the fabric selection. I don't know if this is a recent development, but the only worsteds they had in the books were Loro Piana. The Walterboro and English Clear Worsteds books mentioned by Orgetorix in this thread were nowhere to be found. There were some non-Loro Piana books for tweeds and other fabrics, but for worsteds it seems that BB is pushing their relationship with Loro Piana in their MTM line. There was a Loro Piana representative there who was giving me the hard sell on 8 oz. 180s fabrics, and I told him twice that I wasn't interested, before finding something I liked. That said, I did find some decent 10 oz. Loro Piana worsteds in charcoal and navy that I expect should wear well, and an 8.5 oz medium gray that I'm cautiously optimistic about.

In the end, I decided against the fishtail trouser backs, but added lapped seams and a hook center vent to the list of details, as well as some colorful but tasteful silk linings for the jacket and waistcoat back. Overall, I was quite happy with the experience -- now the only thing that remains is the important part: the fitting and the results. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When I spoke with Doug, he said that he still works out of the Seattle store, but makes the trip to various west coast BB locations for the Made-to-Measure event. I agree, he was an excellent salesman. I would not hesitate to recommend him to Seattle local AAAC members.
 
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