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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After losing a lot of weight in the last year, I'm having to replace my entire wardrobe. When it came to shirts however I was finding that even buying the brands I liked before in a smaller size wasn't working - the neck and sleeve length was ok, but was too baggy through the chest and body. After doing a lot of research (thanks to this board) I tried ordering some slim fit shirts online with decent results.

Finally bit the bullet however and ordered one MTM from mytailor.com and it arrived on Thursday. First impression out of the bag was wow - the fabric was much better than expected (their 2 ply superfine) and quality of the tailoring is impressive. The fit, even on this first go, is better than 90% of the RTW shirts that I have.

I am planning on ordering more (not sure if I'll ever go back to RTW) but wanted to get some opinions on what adjustments I need to make to the fit. The shirt has been washed and ironed once - I always launder in cold water and never use the dryer so I don't anticipate too much shrinkage. Specifically I'm wondering;

1) Are the sleeves a little too long? They feel ok because the cuffs are a slimmer diameter, but wondering if 1/2" less would be better.
2) Is the shoulder too wide - notice the drop off the edge in the picture below. If I trimmed a bit from the shoulder measurement that would of course shorten the sleeve a bit.
3) Should I take the chest in a bit? Seems a little big there, although the waist I think is perfect.
4) Notice the 'roll' between the top buttons when the shirt is done up? How can this be corrected?













Thanks for your opinions!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Shoulders look way too wide.
That's why I posted the close up of the shoulder, I thought it was too much of a drop off. One of those things that I've grown to accept with a RTW shirt. If I take an inch off the shoulder, I assume I'll have to add a 1/2" to each sleeve if the length there is ok.

I'll try to post larger pictures.
 

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The shoulders do look too wide, but if you just got this shirt I would caution you to wash it a few times before making any decisions about alterations. It might even be a good idea to re-post this question after you've had a chance to do the washings, so we can be sure that our suggestions are accurate.
 

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Is it possible to post pictures with your arms at your sides? You always seem to be posing or tensed and I have difficulty appraising the fit. You don't have to, since this is not really to give you advice but to increase my knowledge of a proper fit. You could also post a picture of the shirt untucked? I wanted to compare with the fit of my dress shirts... Thank you.
 

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Sleeves a little too long.

Cuff a little too wide.

Shoulder is a little too wide.

Collar looks very good.

Waist looks excellent.

Although it would be very useful to see you standing with your arms by your sides. :icon_smile:
 

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Acronyms

Made to measure, Made to fit, Custom made...?
What is it called when all of my (shirt) torso measurements are taken and the shirt fabric is cut and sewn to my specific specifications? I just bought a couple of Nordstrom shirts that were fashioned from a standard cut of which they have three (classic, tailored, trim). I got tailored fit with a 16 neck and 33 sleeve, placard botton front, stacked buttons, notched cuff, blah blah. Question is: what is this called? I thought MTM was what I was buying. Not custom made or made to fit.
 

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Wow, that does look like it fits pretty welll, especially around the waist. I think the sleeves might look just a little bit too long, and the shoulder is just a little bit wide.

Dlloyd, how did you get your measurements? Did a real tailor measure you, or did you measure another shirt, or did you measure yourself? Whatever method you used seems to have been pretty successful.

I'm curious too about that slight fabric roll under the first button. It seems like it would have something to do with the way the collar is constructed, no? Lke maybe the collar is sitting just a tiny bit further down the neck than it should. Maybe it needs a stiffer collar band?? :rolleyes:

In any case, if the top button is fastened then you'll be wearing a tie, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wow, that does look like it fits pretty welll, especially around the waist. I think the sleeves might look just a little bit too long, and the shoulder is just a little bit wide.

Dlloyd, how did you get your measurements? Did a real tailor measure you, or did you measure another shirt, or did you measure yourself? Whatever method you used seems to have been pretty successful.

I'm curious too about that slight fabric roll under the first button. It seems like it would have something to do with the way the collar is constructed, no? Lke maybe the collar is sitting just a tiny bit further down the neck than it should. Maybe it needs a stiffer collar band?? :rolleyes:

In any case, if the top button is fastened then you'll be wearing a tie, right?
Thanks, I'm pretty pleased with the fit overall. I did the measurements myself, but triple-checked them. At this point I'm thinking that I'll alter my shoulder measurement from the 19" I submitted to 18". That will take up each side by 1/2" and the sleeves by the same - that should address both issues. Still not sure about that roll under the first button, yes it looks fine when unbuttoned, and of course when it's done up a tie would hide the roll. I might send the photo to mytailor.com to see what they say. I have square shoulders, so it may be that the collar is on too much of an angle back-to-front causing the roll.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
New Photos

Ok so the earlier photos I took myself (obviously) but as several people pointed out holding the camera made it hard to evaluate the shirt. I was actually trying to avoid asking my wife to take the pictures as I suspected (correctly) that trying to explain to her what I needed the photos for would be an awkward conversation. :icon_smile_big:

So both tucked and untucked;











ALSO: These most recent pictures are after 2nd laundering.
 

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Two launderings - good job. And a photographer on the case, too. Now we're cooking!

I would have to say that the body of the shirt is practically perfect, from the hips all the way up to the arm hole. I prefer them a little more fitted personally, but for any normal fellow, I think your shirt is an excellent example.

The lower arms a little too full for my liking, and perhaps a whisker too long, but this is all a matter of personal taste.

You exhibit a little blousiness at the back, and to be honest this is unavoidable with anything other than bespoke where the shape of the side seams would have to be horrendously complicated to accomodate the curvature of your back.

For a MTM shirt, this is excellent! :icon_smile:
 

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dlloyd,

Careful with the sleeve length measurements.

Since a sleeve measurement is made from the middle of the upper back to the end of where you want the cuff, giving your tailor a narrower shoulder width measurement alone will not actually change the resulting sleeve length.

You still need to tell him to the actual (new) sleeve length you desire.
 

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Made to measure, Made to fit, Custom made...?
What is it called when all of my (shirt) torso measurements are taken and the shirt fabric is cut and sewn to my specific specifications? I just bought a couple of Nordstrom shirts that were fashioned from a standard cut of which they have three (classic, tailored, trim). I got tailored fit with a 16 neck and 33 sleeve, placard botton front, stacked buttons, notched cuff, blah blah. Question is: what is this called? I thought MTM was what I was buying. Not custom made or made to fit.
sounds like M2M, that is if they used your chest and waist measures also.
 

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if you do take in the shoulders,take in the chest 1/2" each side no more. the sleeve length looks right.
take in the waist, amount you desire. but do not take in the hips.
tell them you have a right low shoulder and a right high hip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
dlloyd,

Careful with the sleeve length measurements.

Since a sleeve measurement is made from the middle of the upper back to the end of where you want the cuff, giving your tailor a narrower shoulder width measurement alone will not actually change the resulting sleeve length.

You still need to tell him to the actual (new) sleeve length you desire.
Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. The measurements however are done a little differently - they don't do 'full' length like a RTW, they do full shoulder and then just true sleeve. So in a RTW I take a 34", with mytailor.com I submitted my shoulder of 19" and sleeve of 24.5". Makes for an effective length of 34 (19/2 + 24.5). If I changed the shoulder to 18" would it not bring the sleeve to 33.5?
 
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