[Harvard'10 Summa]

Per Gentleman's Gazette, a tuxedo should never have a single-vent. I got a used Samuelsohn tuxedo in eBay for about $200 with a centre vent. I took it to a tailor and asked him to close it. He pointed out a lot of issues with the tuxedo and said he'd take three weeks, but insisted to keep the vent.

If I keep the vent, am I sinning against the style gods?

 

[Matt S]

A single vent is the American way, no matter what kind of jacket you're wearing. Since I'm an anglophile, I'd say to close it. I only like single vents on very sporty jackets, and dinner jackets are the opposite of sporty. If there are a lot of issues with the suit, is it even worth altering?

 

[Harvard'10 Summa]

A single vent is the American way, no matter what kind of jacket you're wearing. Since I'm an anglophile, I'd say to close it. I only like single vents on very sporty jackets, and dinner jackets are the opposite of sporty. If there are a lot of issues with the suit, is it even worth altering?

I need it for an event that is coming up, so I would alter it rather than buy another one which may very well have similar issues.

 

[vonSuess]

Well, if you are American, is there anything wrong with doing something the American way?

 

[Winhes2]

Matt S has addressed this question more thoroughly On his blog.

 

[Mute]

I wouldn't do it but most people wouldn't even know the difference.

 

[Woofa]

Agree with mute here. If you were buying one at retail for years of use or having one made then by all means you could have a decision on your hands but for a used tux bought for one event? I would be hesitant to paying for more alterations. Very doubtful in today's America if anyone would even know this never mind recognize it.

 

[Watchman]

To answer your question directly "am I a sinner?" - Obviously. But, not for the reason you inquire. First, the "Gentleman's Gazette" is filled with erroneous views, particularly in the realm of Classic Menswear. There are far better resources out there, this site being one, and TOF being another. (See also the Parisian Gentleman, The Rake, the articles by Bruce Boyer and some of the material from JPress)

Secondly, you basically thrifted a nice piece ($200 is a little more than 'thrifty' but you catch my drift) and the others on this site have encouraged you to not overthink this. Please take their advice.

Finally, whilst sewing up the back seam may seem (no pun intended) like a good idea, will it not leave a rather unusual looking back of the garment? Methinks you are better off leaving it as is. Samuelsohn is a legitimate maker. Enjoy your garment for procured at an amazing price and go about your business happily!

Cheers!

 

[Charles Dana]

If I keep the vent, am I sinning against the style gods?

No.

 

[Matt S]

Finally, whilst sewing up the back seam may seem (no pun intended) like a good idea, will it not leave a rather unusual looking back of the garment?

Sewing up the vent properly should result in a jacket that looks as it there were never any vent at all. The blind stitching across the top of the vent needs to be removed.

 

[clothingconnoisseur]

Per Gentleman's Gazette, a tuxedo should never have a single-vent. I got a used Samuelsohn tuxedo in eBay for about $200 with a centre vent. I took it to a tailor and asked him to close it. He pointed out a lot of issues with the tuxedo and said he'd take three weeks, but insisted to keep the vent.

If I keep the vent, am I sinning against the style gods?

Many style experts will say that a tuxedo or dinner jacket should never have any vent. The tradition behind vents, both center and side, is to prevent your jacket from riding up while riding a horse. However, we wear vented suits and sport coats all the time and I doubt any of us do it while riding horses. If you like the tuxedo and don't have a need to wear one reguarly, I would keep it.

 

[Watchman]

Sewing up the vent properly should result in a jacket that looks as it there were never any vent at all. The blind stitching across the top of the vent needs to be removed.

Gotcha. I guess my mind immediately jumped to the idea of a "hook vent" and while hook vent is a Trad thing and cool. The more traditional center vent is far less obtrusive...

 

[Matt S]

Gotcha. I guess my mind immediately jumped to the idea of a "hook vent" and while hook vent is a Trad thing and cool. The more traditional center vent is far less obtrusive...

I'm sure that even a hook vent could be altered into no vent, but that would take a little more work. I've seen plenty of American dinner jackets with a single vent, but I've never seen one with a hook vent.

 

[Watchman]

I'm sure that even a hook vent could be altered into no vent, but that would take a little more work. I've seen plenty of American dinner jackets with a single vent, but I've never seen one with a hook vent.

Yes. You know it is increasingly difficult to find a decent tailor/seamstress in many areas of the US. And, when you do find one they are booked out for weeks or even months.

Case in point, I recently had a Samuelsohn SC altered by a seamstress. This turned out to be a literal nightmare. They nearly destroyed the garment. when they opened the jacket with the seam cutter they cut the fabric. I was horrified...there was another, far more competent seamstress who felt bad for me and rectified the issue.

This could have easily went south very quickly. My point is sometimes its better to just let things be as they are rather than risk disaster.

 

[Tim Correll]

To answer your question directly "am I a sinner?" - Obviously. But, not for the reason you inquire. First, the "Gentleman's Gazette" is filled with erroneous views, particularly in the realm of Classic Menswear. There are far better resources out there, this site being one, and TOF being another. (See also the Parisian Gentleman, The Rake, the articles by Bruce Boyer and some of the material from JPress)

Secondly, you basically thrifted a nice piece ($200 is a little more than 'thrifty' but you catch my drift) and the others on this site have encouraged you to not overthink this. Please take their advice.

Finally, whilst sewing up the back seam may seem (no pun intended) like a good idea, will it not leave a rather unusual looking back of the garment? Methinks you are better off leaving it as is. Samuelsohn is a legitimate maker. Enjoy your garment for procured at an amazing price and go about your business happily!

Cheers!

Off topic, but what do you think of Kirby Allison, Watchman? For classic menswear and even classic womenswear, I would put him on par with Ask Andy, Sonya Glyn and Hugo Jacomet and ahead of all of the others you mentioned.

But I do agree with Gentleman’s Gazette a lot more than I disagree with them.

I‘ve never disagreed with Kirby Allison, Sonya Glyn and Hugo Jacomet, not even once and not even remotely (far from it). You would do yourself a ton of justice to check out Kirby Allison, Watchman.

 

[Watchman]

Off topic, but what do you think of Kirby Allison, Watchman? For classic menswear and even classic womenswear, I would put him on par with Ask Andy, Sonya Glyn and Hugo Jacomet and ahead of all of the others you mentioned.

But I do agree with Gentleman’s Gazette a lot more than I disagree with them.

I‘ve never disagreed with Kirby Allison, Sonya Glyn and Hugo Jacomet, not even once and not even remotely (far from it). You would do yourself a ton of justice to check out Kirby Allison, Watchman.

You know I remember back when Kirby was first getting started out well over a decade ago now. He frequented these Fora and posted occasionally on TOF and here IIRC.

Kirby is great. One thing I will caution though. Beware of over polishing your shoes. Kirby has a lot of "skin in the game" and will have you using every Saphir product under the sun. He is a salesman after all.

But, all in all, Kirby is a stand up dude. I also enjoy "The Shoe Snob" and have found his info helpful. I guess I am to the point now where I know what I like and enjoy my own nuances of things. There was a time when I consumed hours and hours of reading material. Nowadays, I stick with what I know and like and that is about all.

Cheers!

 

[Watchman]

IMO, AAAC is the de facto place on the interwebz for all things Classic Menswear. Some of the older posts on this site are golden. It is sad to go back and read many of the older posts and realize many of those contributors are long gone.

 

[Watchman]

FWIW, I do think Gentleman's Gazette is better than it once was. Some of the older stuff on there was atrocious advice.

 

[rs525]

I like the traditional clothing styles so yes I think a single rear vent on a tuxedo is ugly. I don't like center vents in general, vastly prefer double rear vents. You should get it closed.

 

[Tim Correll]

FWIW, I do think Gentleman's Gazette is better than it once was. Some of the older stuff on there was atrocious advice.

I also recommend Real Men Real Style. Kirby Allison, Andy Gilchrist, Sonya and Hugo Jacomet and Ash Jones (The Chaps Guide, who I forgot to mention before, sorry ) are still the benchmarks.

I also like Ashley Weston (Men’s Fashioner) and her male colleague, despite her being a bit shrill and both of them being very wiry. But I agree with her as much as the Gentleman’s Gazette.

Other than his pink blazer (which, as I told him, is a hoodlum target ), I also have never once disagreed with Ash Jones, not even remotely (far from it).