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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, when speaking of saddle shoes and bucks, for the most part is it a buck is a buck is a buck (and the same for saddle shoes) or is there an extreme quality differential between say a Bass exeter and a buck form Brooks? they both have the red sole and they are goodyear welted. If I am looking for a shoe to occasionally wear with chinos OCBD's and a repp tie, should I invest in an expensive buck?
 

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Are you sure the Bass is welted? I have a pair with well-faked stitching, but they're actually glued.

Beyond that, cheap suede can be a gamble. My Bass have held up well, but often lesser suede goes bald very quickly.
 

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My new bass Exeters were CHEAP. I don't love them, but for the price I would do it again.

My issue is with the red sole. I (perhaps incorrectly) recall my old bass bucs having a softer, more spongy red sole, where as these have a more plastic-ey feel to them. I am not sure which is better, frankly, but these are certainly different.

As far as the stiching, i guess it's fake, but it looks pretty real....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
maby I was decieved by the stitching, I thought it was welted, but now I am not sure. On zappos there is a clear photo of the sole and there is stiching on top, and a cut channel with stiching in it, but I am not sure. If you own a recent pair you should know better than me.
 

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No. In addition to construction, less expensive bucks are of coarse sueded split cowhide. Expensive ones are of sueded reverse full grain calf, thinner. Neither are actual "buck". Bespoke makers may have access to actual South African old school "buck" from an endangered animal, but it's limited. The brick colored sole density also varies. Brick colored English soles are harder.

Stick with relatively inexpensive ones for casual wear. Buy 'em at a discount and throw them away when they become troublesome and too ragged. J. Crew used to have some a grade or two above Bass, made in Italy. Dunno about now. Chinese(?) made Polo or Polo Sport sometimes appear at discounters and eBay.
 
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