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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just visited my local Brooks Brothers to look at some LHS's for their buy one/get on 50% off sale.

They had pulled two shell LHS's, one black, one #8. Both the same size. Interestingly, the black one was definitely at least a 1/2 size larger than the #8. The saleswoman noted taking them out of the box that the blacks were larger. But both being marked 8D, I did not believe it until I tried them on.

I know these are all hand lasted and sewn, but this much difference? The black ones were falling off my feet. The cordovan perfect.

To try to make up the other half of the deal, she pulled some black shell Alden made tassel moc's for me in black. Was also surprised to see that the vamp was much higher than on my vintage #8's. Much higher. Not quite as high as my AE Graysons but almost. This is not a minor change, but almost akin to a different model. The look is changed from a low-vamp, slouchy, casual shoe in my vintage ones, to a much sleeker, more business-like shoe in the new ones.

I did not pull the trigger so I have no photos to share, but thought that others on the forum might like to know that: trying on your Aldens in a store can make a huge difference, and size variations this big make buying on-line or assuming you know your size somewhat risky. And that all the debate about how to wear your Alden tassels may be based in part on people looking at signicant variations in the same model.

Has anyone else seen similar variations?
 

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Funny you mention that. I have the LHS in various colors, and they fit well, except for the black ones, where my heel tends to slip a little. I thought I had an odd pair, but now am wondering if that color is made a little differently.
 

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I definitely can believe that BB has made changes to its Alden shoes. I dont know about the LHS but the BB by Alden tassel loafer has gone through changes over time. When I bought a pair (around 8 years ago or so) they had some that were pointy toe and some that were much rounder. Also the width of the sole vis a vis the shoe body has varied too.
 

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Speas said:
I definitely can believe that BB has made changes to its Alden shoes. I dont know about the LHS but the BB by Alden tassel loafer has gone through changes over time. When I bought a pair (around 8 years ago or so) they had some that were pointy toe and some that were much rounder. Also the width of the sole vis a vis the shoe body has varied too.
Below is the BB tassel in 1984 (thanks to HeavyTweedJacket's blog). Assuming these were made in the USA by Alden (and not a Peal model), then there are significant differences compared to today's models: higher heels and much closer trimmed welts, for starters, and a generally sleeker overall appearance.

https://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=bbfallwinter846.jpg

Below is the BB calfskin tassels in 2005, from their website. They were obviously using the Copley last version for the calfskin models, but the Aberdeen last for the cordovan models. After taking a cursory flip through my catalogues, it looks like BB still makes that distinction today.

https://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=260h.jpg
 

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The BB LHS is different than the Alden LHS. While looking at it from the exterior it is not noteable it is however on the inside. Primary difference between the two is the BB is not lined while the Alden is.

Cordovan fitting is funny, it can be different from shoe to shoe, subtile variences from hand craftsmanship but generally it will be close. Alden however cordovan wise will always run abit bigger than their calf counterpart.
Cheers...
 

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Just visited my local Brooks Brothers to look at some LHS's for their buy one/get on 50% off sale.

They had pulled two shell LHS's, one black, one #8. Both the same size. Interestingly, the black one was definitely at least a 1/2 size larger than the #8. The saleswoman noted taking them out of the box that the blacks were larger. But both being marked 8D, I did not believe it until I tried them on.

?
I too just bought a monkstrap and a captoes BB Alden shell cordovan and have notice a difference in the same marked sizes of the shoes. On the monkstrap, I ordered a 7 1/2D (my size is 8D) because I know that it is on the Barrie last and runs 1/2 size larger. It fits perfectly. Unfortunately for the captoe, I thought it would be on the Barrie last as well, so I ordered a 7 1/2D. The fit was very tight and it fits like a true 7 1/2D. I shouild have tried it on at the store. Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
sorry to hear about the size mixup. but I hear BB has a great return policy. After painful lessons buying from ebay and now, finding out that there is this much size variation within models--I will find it tough to buy aldens without trying them on no matter what the deal.
 

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I too just bought a monkstrap and a captoes BB Alden shell cordovan and have notice a difference in the same marked sizes of the shoes. On the monkstrap, I ordered a 7 1/2D (my size is 8D) because I know that it is on the Barrie last and runs 1/2 size larger. It fits perfectly. Unfortunately for the captoe, I thought it would be on the Barrie last as well, so I ordered a 7 1/2D. The fit was very tight and it fits like a true 7 1/2D. I shouild have tried it on at the store. Andy
the monkstrap is built on a aberdeen last & the captoe is built on a hampton. unless i am mistaken & brooks has these made on different lasts outside of the norm from alden which i do not believe. both of these lasts if this is the case fit quite differently from each other. the aberdeen being narrower than the barrie & the hampton being much narrower than both.

if you do wear a barrie in size 8.0D then it would be recommended that you move up 1/2 size in the aberdeen or hampton. the reverse would be moving from narrower last to the barrie.

can you clarify for me on your shoes the last.
cheers...
 

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I flipped through my BB catalogues last night and the calfskin penny loafer was clearly made on the Van last until the end of 2002, but starting in 2003 was replaced by the Copley version. It's worth noting that the older Van calfskin models had a tongue with a lining glued to the underside: in other words, although the shoe was lined the tongue did not have the row of stitching around the outside (similar to the unlined cordovan version). I know I have a photo of this so I will try to find it tonight.
 

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I flipped through my BB catalogues last night and the calfskin penny loafer was clearly made on the Van last until the end of 2002, but starting in 2003 was replaced by the Copley version. It's worth noting that the older Van calfskin models had a tongue with a lining glued to the underside: in other words, although the shoe was lined the tongue did not have the row of stitching around the outside (similar to the unlined cordovan version). I know I have a photo of this so I will try to find it tonight.
The photos below show what I meant by the BB calfskin loafers on the Van last (ending in 2002).

https://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=copyofbrooks20size10d.jpg
https://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=copyofbrooks13a.jpg
https://img16.imageshack.us/my.php?image=copyofbrooks13b.jpg
 
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