Men's Clothing Forums banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm about to invest in 14 custom shirts, and before I do, I would appreciate some advice from the natty gentlemen on this forum.

My first question is, when appointing a MTM shirt, how do I know what the measurements of the actual garment will be before it arrives? "My" measurements will be taken, yes, but how will the shirt fit? Can this be specified beforehand (i.e. the armhole will be exactly X in diameter, the placket will be exactly X in width), or is it always chosen from a stock pattern?

If exact measurements can't be specified, then I have a varied list of shirt companies to choose from. Could someone recommend a good-quality, fashion-forward maker? I prefer slim silhouettes and atypical fabrics (I would like a few shirts in polka-dot, denim, etc.). Something in the spirit of the Berluti shoes that I own.

In my case, I can't travel to London or Paris, but I can travel to New York. Your help is greatly appreciated. Salut!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,556 Posts
Briggsy, welcome.

Just get one made first. If you like it, ask the tailor to make you 13 more. If you don't like it, tell him what you'd like improved on the second one. If that fits, ask for 12 more, or do the same with that as you did with the last, until finally perfect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
The purchase of clothes can be viewed as an investment depending on the perspective you take. For someone starting off at a job or who is looking to improve his appearance to further his career can be considered an investment. If it allows you to increase your net income more than the cost of the clothes, profit is made. Take the example of a student who just graduated and is starting on his first job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
66 Posts
Strictly speaking, depending on the level of bespoke you are getting, you will essentially receive exactly what you order. After all, you're paying a premium for a service designed to your exacting standards and specifications. With a TRULY bespoke shirt, the shirt maker will measure you and cut a pattern based on your needs/requests for the way it should fit, ie, the fit of your jackets, if you wear a watch, the length of your torso, slope of your shoulders, broad/flat chested, etc.

I have had completely bespoke shirts made for myself before, but because my body is not extremely unusual, or atypical, I found that my money was better spent getting MTM shirts done at a lower cost and instead prioritizing finer cottons/buttons/design aesthetics.

With MTM, depending on the maker, you will try on a shirt and have the associate tweak the pattern to accommodate your body. I also prefer a slim silhouette but I'm not so precise that I need a mm here taken in and a mm there let out. The associate should also take shrinkage into account when choosing your size. Most MTM shirtmakers offer quite a few options, which you will probably find more than adequate.

As for vendors with lots of fabrics to choose from, I'm sure Mr. Kabbaz has literally thousands of different fabrics to choose from, should you want something exotic. (I've never ordered from them, but I have heard nothing but positive feedback.) All of my most colorful and beautiful shirts came from either Kiton, Turnbull and Asser or Robert Talbott. Kiton is definitely not the place for the most nitpicking fit-mongers, though. T&A is the ultimate classic traditional shirt IMO. And I worked for Talbott so maybe I'm biased.

I agree that you should start with 3 (a common minimum for most shirtmakers) and make sure you are happy with the fit, finish, wear and quality of the product. If you're really set on 14, then perhaps try ordering 3 or 4 from 4 different vendors.

Lucky you being able to order 14 custom shirts, btw...if the economy was a little better I might be in your category!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Briggsy, welcome.

Just get one made first. If you like it, ask the tailor to make you 13 more. If you don't like it, tell him what you'd like improved on the second one. If that fits, ask for 12 more, or do the same with that as you did with the last, until finally perfect.
It would probably take 2 'prototypes' to get the pattern I want. Even then, I've noticed the detailing on RTW shirts differs from the MTM patterns I have seen. (Ex. the placement of the collar buttons on a b.d. collar shirt can affect the way the collar sits, and changes the whole vibe of the shirt!) What are your experiences with MTM vs. RTW? Have you specified a shirt that you prefer over a designer shirt (style-wise)?

"Also, shirts (and clothes in general) are not an investment."

- Of course they are! The ROI may not be financial, but the term applies to any action taken in expectation of a worthwhile result. And what is more worthwhile than looking good?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
As for vendors with lots of fabrics to choose from, I'm sure Mr. Kabbaz has literally thousands of different fabrics to choose from, should you want something exotic. (I've never ordered from them, but I have heard nothing but positive feedback.) All of my most colorful and beautiful shirts came from either Kiton, Turnbull and Asser or Robert Talbott. Kiton is definitely not the place for the most nitpicking fit-mongers, though. T&A is the ultimate classic traditional shirt IMO. And I worked for Talbott so maybe I'm biased.

Thanks for your thoughtful response. I will check out Alexander Kabbaz, I see good things written about him. By the way, I have a Talbott RTW shirt and I love the fabric and button choice!

Please keep the recommendations coming, your help is invaluable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,969 Posts
Custom with is bespoke, M2M is not custom, and then there is rtw. With custom you should get more of what you want, because it is coming from scatch. There are a number of custom shirt makers, so there may be one in your town. Kabbaz is by far the most expensive, I think he will recommend a cheaper custom shirt maker for you to go to first.

The buttons on bd can be moved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Custom with is bespoke, M2M is not custom, and then there is rtw. With custom you should get more of what you want, because it is coming from scatch. There are a number of custom shirt makers, so there may be one in your town. Kabbaz is by far the most expensive, I think he will recommend a cheaper custom shirt maker for you to go to first.
Yeah, he's about twice as expensive as I had budgeted for, but I do like his philosophy. He definitely deserves a visit. I'm still looking for shirt-makers in the MTM (or low-end bespoke) category with an eclectic house-style. Any suggestions?
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top