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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. Does this very light check (hope it shows up in the picture) go with this plaid jacket? I took advice on using a plain brown tie (silk weave from Kent Wang).

Also, about French cuffs. They seem to "fill up" the sleeves. And drag a bit on the table when working. I am wearing them with some silk knots, can they be connected with the sleeve ends pulled in, like a barrel? Or must always be worn like to layers held together at the ends (if you know what I mean)?

I'm wearing this with black pants and shoes. I thought about grey, but them hem was a bit worn on those.

Thanks.

 

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I find that the check on the shirt is too busy to work with that sports coat. A simpler check in a scale that doesn't compete with the sports coat would be better. Or for a sure match just wear a plain shirt. And double cuffs should not be worn in the barrel manner, always kissing. Those cuffs look too big for the sleeve, and just too big in general. It looks like you can slide your hand through the cuff with the cufflink in it.
 

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That seems to be par for the course with ready-to-wear shirts, unfortunately. It might also be that his coat sleeves are a bit on the slim side.

I agree though, either go with something like gingham check, stripes or just plain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks. Looks like I need to return these shirts to the UK. They seem to love wider double cuffs there!
I will go with plain blue. The check in the shirt is very pale, but better safe than sorry. I'll post photo with stripes later, but I think they are too busy, too.
 

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Nah, no need to return if you otherwise like them. But I have found online MTM shirts generally have slimmer cuffs and they can often be had for a decent price.
 

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I can't see where the cufflinks are, but altering cuffs, even if it were possible would be a HUGE expense. However +1 on Jovan's suggestion on MTM. You will generally pay nearly as much, and sometimes more, for serious alterations to a ready-to-wear shirts as you will pay for MTM. At least that's been my experince.
 

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They generally make the cuffs to fit your wrist measurement, unless you insist on specifying the dimensions.

Proper Cloth is highly rated. Though I've never used them, I want to sometime soon. They have a first-timer discount going on for a limited time.

Ratio Clothing is technically made-to-order, but it's helpful for anyone who's afraid of taking a bunch of measurements from their body as it only takes a few steps and measurements you already know. Unless you like a very slim fit, it's best to test the waters with their Classic Fit option first, which is already fairly trim. If the shirt doesn't fit right after a few washes, they'll gladly accept a return within 30 days and make any adjustments you need. I ended up doing just that and it worked out well. Their quality and fabrics are comparable to Brooks Brothers (they should be, given they're made in the same factory) even a bit more by having a four piece yoke. If you want to go this route, make sure to "like" them on Facebook for a $25 off code, it will bring most shirts down to $64. Only quibble is that I wish they had more fabrics like plain broadcloth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks. I got the shirts from Tyrwhitt. The seem a little thin, but I like the slim fit. Too bad about the double cuffs. The are just extremely wide. I may try them with some more jackets, but I don't think they will be any better. I see other posts stating that UK shirts are wider cuffs. Too bad the barrel closing of the cuff isn't allowed (I can tell the shirt wasn't designed for it). I kind of like the look, but hate to run around defending myself....it does seem like a nice way to do it.
 

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I wouldn't advise it, as it will just look weird to anyone who's seen double cuffs used properly. If you want something that looks like the baby of a double and button cuff, it's better to get this style.

One of my friends at prom years and years ago was genuinely clueless though. I discreetly and kindly pointed out his mistake halfway through the night and he made the adjustment without fuss.
 

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Whenever I've done MTM, I've always had the maker measure the wrists and then make allowance for the watch I'll be wearing with that shirt. It does make a difference.
 

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I wouldn't advise it, as it will just look weird to anyone who's seen double cuffs used properly. If you want something that looks like the baby of a double and button cuff, it's better to get this style.
I've just started having some shirts made with that cuff, and I very much like it. Perfect hybrid, and links/knots not needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Interesting, cuffs on Mr. Bond, but those look "silly" and impractical to me. They look like they would really get in the way of the keyboard, or even using a pen for more than a few seconds. I mean "kissing" double cuffs seem at least a reasonable way to put cuffs together, if now associated with formality and showiness. I think the barrel double cuff is very attractive and practical (a little hard to put on...and its clear the shirts aren't designed to work that way perfectly (the break in the sleeve above the cuffs does not look like it will lay flat that way if jacket is off)). I don't think it's "wrong." I mean what is "right" about any of this stuff? All style starts with something wrong. I just doubt I have time to be the standard bearer for this movement. :)
 

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midatlantic: Perfectly acceptable. It's not everyone's cup of tea. Worth noting though that not all turnback cuffs are cut the same way. Some have that overlap and some don't. With some the corners are a little more or a little less rounded. Even Turnbull & Asser themselves had noticeably changed the shape in just one decade.
 

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Interesting, cuffs on Mr. Bond, but those look "silly" and impractical to me. They look like they would really get in the way of the keyboard, or even using a pen for more than a few seconds. I mean "kissing" double cuffs seem at least a reasonable way to put cuffs together, if now associated with formality and showiness. I think the barrel double cuff is very attractive and practical (a little hard to put on...and its clear the shirts aren't designed to work that way perfectly (the break in the sleeve above the cuffs does not look like it will lay flat that way if jacket is off)). I don't think it's "wrong." I mean what is "right" about any of this stuff? All style starts with something wrong. I just doubt I have time to be the standard bearer for this movement. :)
Actually, the turnback cuff or cocktail cuff is much easier to use at a desk because it is a barrel cuff. Nothing sticks out to get in the way. I wear them at my desk all the time and I never have any problems. If the cuff is cut well it stays in place and doesn't get in the way at all. However, double cuffs at a keyboard do indeed get in the way. Wearing a double cuff in the barrel style is incorrect. Or at the very least, you've have to get one made bespoke because none of the ones I have seen do it and look good. The sleeve isn't cut to be worn that way. If you have a gauntlet button it will be on the wrong side. Your sleeve will also bunch up because there will be extra material in the wrong place. Another thing, cufflinks inside your sleeve rubbing against your wrist aren't very comfortable. You're better off getting barrel cuffs with fancy buttons.
 

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I guess the cuffs look flaired out in the photo, which makes me think they would constantly rub onthe keyboard or desk.
True, some designs may tend to flare out, but they still won't get in the way on a keyboard like double cuffs will. I've updated the blog entry with different pictures of different style turnback cuffs Bond has worn.
https://thesuitsofjamesbond.com/?p=5
 
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