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I am currently considering my first venture into bespoke suit buying, but there is one issue which I need to resolve before going ahead.

Due to a certain heftiness of thigh and the fact that I walk 3-4 miles between home and work every day I tend to go through trousers more quickly than most. This is quite a disadvantage with RTW and has led to a number of orphaned jackets over the years - so I would like to know a couple of things:
A) Will a bespoke suit still last longer with the wear I would give it?
B) Is it possible to order a suit made from a cloth so perennial that I could always go back and have new trousers made up from the same pattern?

Obviously I could just order a suit with spare trousers but this would increase the initial cost; furthermore I probably go through 4 to 5 pairs of trousers in the lifetime of a jacket, and that's with the cheap RTW suits I have worn up to now.

Any help gratefully received!
 

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The cloth may be perennial but there is no guarantee the dye lots will match. In fact, the liklihood is that they will not.

Multiple trousers bought at the same time is a better idea but do have all three pieces dry cleaned together or the spare trousers may no longer look the same as the jacket when you need them.
 

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Bespoke trousers will not stand up significantly longer than RTW trousers. The wear is caused by the friction caused by your anatomy and your daily hike. I assume you are wearing your trousers through in the crotch. I suggest the following: 1. Have the crotch lined. This will slow the wear but not stop it. Have enough extra cloth so that you can have the crotch replaced when it wears through.
You can consider buying enough cloth to make additional trousers at later dates. This will assure that the cloth is from the same dye-lot as the original trousers and will match the jacket. If you do that, whenever you dry clean the suit you should send the cloth and have it cleaned. If you don't do that, the new trousers can look like a different dye-lot even though it is from the same dye-lot.
Paul Winston
Winston Tailors
www.chipp2.com
 

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Will and Mr. Winston provide excellent advice.

I think that your best best is to make-up two to three sets of trousers and alternate them. If you hold cloth to make future trousers you might find that the coat and new trousers are a mis-match in that the coat looks old, and the trousers are new.

Your choice of cloth will affect longevity. I recommend strong, heavy, and hardy cloths which can withstand the friction for a longer time. Talk to your tailor about 14+ oz. English cloths (2 by 2 construction) in hard finished worsteds, such as those offered Dugdale (they wear like iron). An 8 oz. Loro Piana will wear-out very quickly. The same is for soft flannels.

If making a few sets of bespoke trousers gets a bit expensive, then perhaps you should go with MTM and save bespoke for sportscoats, blazers, and the "special" suit?

Good luck.
 

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There is not much difference between bespoke and MTM in the same cloth.

You should get at least two pairs of trousers per suit, maybe even three. This could be done at the time or at a latter date. There are advantages of getting all the trousers together and at latter dates; however, as mentioned, getting them at the same time is ideal.

To help with the 'wear', you should go for a heavier cloth, e.g. 13oz. If you had a 11oz cloth for MTM/RTW trousers and 9oz for bespoke trousers, the latter will 'wear' more quickly. So whether you go for RTW, MTM or bespoke is not the issue, but the cloth and and your requirements are important issues.

Due to the walking, you should consider getting looser fit trousers. This will help with the 'wear' because there will be a less friction compared to close and tight fit trousers.
 

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Colour changing through drycleaning for dark wool trousers is a myth.
The process is too gentle and makes no difference.Dirty solvents and pastels/creams take up loose dyes but darks + wools have no problems.

Get some spare cloth at the same time as when you buy the suit so you can patch up the crotch with a double diamond ( your thighs will wear out your crotch by the sounds of it).

Or just buy the extra yardage for the future and get them made as you need them.( in fact buy your own fabric and get the tailor to make it for you...fabric is probably about 20% of the cost of a new bespoke suit on average ....correct me if I'm wrong anyone.....

stay away from fabrics with a nap...as they look worn more quickly even though they are not.
Dark gray is a good colour for longevity and looks younger longer ( compared to dark blue and black which show shininess more quickly)
 
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