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Gentlemen,

When in Rome last week, I had a short conversation with a gentlemen from Battistoni shop. He made an interesting argument regarding single vs double yoke that I hadn't heard before.

Me: "I know that most English manufacturers use double yokes, whereas Italian ones usually use single ones..."

He: "Double yoke? Never at Battistoni!"

Me: "Why?"

He: "Because split yoke is a way to save fabric. With it you have more opportunities to use remnants of a fabric. We never do it."

Gentlemen, what do you think of it?

Andrey
 

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Andrey

Interesting post. Thanks for sharing. I believe this has been discussed in some detail on the forum, if not prior to your posting, then certainly since.

My own view is that whilst a double yoke certainly gives the impression that a shirt is of a higher quality, it is often not a particularly useful part of the shirt, unless the wearer has a drop-shoulder on one side.

My further question, would be weather a double yoke might be necessary for a yoke which is in a particularly high position, due to the wearer having a smaller physique and slighter shoulders. Would a yoke require a more curved shape, and therefore perhaps require being made in two sections, in this event?

PS: My apologies for bumping an old thread, which I stumbled upon during a search. However, I felt that it's solitary opening post deserved a reply!
 

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Yokes: Split Yoke vs. One-Piece Shoulders

The foot bone's connected to the calf bone; the calf bone's connected to the thigh bone; the thigh bone ... While this, as the kindergarten ditty goes, may be true, it does not accurately reflect the importance of the parts of the body. When it comes to covering the torso, the single most important body part is the shoulders. Shoulders are the hanger from which every top garment drapes. If the shoulder part is not properly constructed, no amount of fussing with the rest of the shirt, blouse, jacket, or coat will properly correct the related problems. In most shirts and blouses, the shoulder part is called the "yoke".

Let's get one thing straight: Shoulders are not! In some 30+ years of making bespoke shirts, I have never seen a straight pair of shoulders. Shoulders curve ...

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