Men's Clothing Forums banner
1 - 20 of 62 Posts

·
Aficianado
Joined
·
1,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay gents,it's about time for me to update my black tie collection.My tuxedo is starting to fade,the shoes are on their second sole,and after an unfortunate incident with my laundry service,the cuffs of the shirt came off :(.Anyway,I was thinking a one button notch for the coat,but I'm not sure what the rule is on notch lapels (I have heard it said one should never wear a notch lapel).As for the shoes,I am split between slip ons or lace ups,any sdvice on this?
 

·
Connoisseur
Joined
·
5,988 Posts
I would avoid notch lapels because they don't look as good as the other kinds.
Of course that is also an arguable point since it boils down to personal preference. I don't like peak lapels so I wear the notched variety. I just think it looks better. The notched lapel is also fast becoming the lapel of choice in the United States. There is certainly room under the tent for all three lapel types. :icon_smile:

Cruiser
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Of course that is also an arguable point since it boils down to personal preference. I don't like peak lapels so I wear the notched variety. I just think it looks better. The notched lapel is also fast becoming the lapel of choice in the United States. There is certainly room under the tent for all three lapel types. :icon_smile:

Cruiser
I tend to see the opposite, that single breasted peak lapel suits were somewhat of a rarity ten years ago but now are very popular and... dare I say... fashionable. Notch lapels have always been stock standard on blazers and SB suits in the past.

Formalwear is a different story, however, and I've never seen anyone wearing a notch lapel tuxedo in my formal experience. I frankly would not recommend it, as it looks a bit out of place and in a way that looks just slightly more informal. If you truly hate peaks, I would recommend a shawl collar instead, as it is more traditional on formalwear.

But peak lapels are very cool. A single button single breasted peak lapel tuxedo will surely always be a good choice. If you are asking for advice, it seems that you want to know what the safe choice is, and single button peak lapels is it.

In terms of footwear, patent leather oxfords with silk laces are the safe choice. I am not sure as to what should be worn with opera pumps, or if there are times that they are preferable.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
16,023 Posts
Go for the peak or shawl. Even George Clooney has recently traded in his notch lapels and necktie for shawl collar and a bow tie recently.



So has Brad Pitt, for peaks.



(A bit wrinkly, but that's to be expected of lightweight materials. At least he's showing cuff!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,258 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
The basic argument against notched lapels (and I agree with it) is that it lowers the formality of the jacket, turning the elegant tuxedo into a glorified black suit. But in the end it's all just personal preference and not worth pistols at dawn.

Supposedly the most formal shoe for a tux is the patent leather opera pump with a grosgrain bow. My preference is patent leather balmorals. Blacktieguide.com states even regular black oxfords are acceptable if they're highly polished.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,642 Posts
Go for the peak or shawl. Even George Clooney has recently traded in his notch lapels and necktie for shawl collar and a bow tie recently.
Very Rat Pack.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
I guess it depends on the circles you run with. If you hang around with trendier crowds inspired by contemporary Hollywood, no one will notice the difference. If you run with more traditional social clubs, the notch may raise an eyebrow or two.

I only wear peak myself, but I agree that there's room for all three lapels.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
For what it's worth, I'd go with the peaked lapel.
I'm in a similar position to the OP, I wear black tie 2 or 3 times a month for about 9 months of the year and have nearly worn one of my suits out and had the other lifted by a "friend". I started down the path of a new DJ last week with a request for some samples of midnight blue and black from dege and skinner. I' m thinking single button, single breasted, peak lapel with flat front trousers cut high for braces. What do you think?
Apologies for the thread hijack,
Simon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,642 Posts
For what it's worth, I'd go with the peaked lapel.
I'm in a similar position to the OP, I wear black tie 2 or 3 times a month for about 9 months of the year and have nearly worn one of my suits out and had the other lifted by a "friend". I started down the path of a new DJ last week with a request for some samples of midnight blue and black from dege and skinner. I' m thinking single button, single breasted, peak lapel with flat front trousers cut high for braces. What do you think?
Apologies for the thread hijack,
Simon.
Pleats are a little more classic, IMO, but otherwise what you suggest is totally according to Hoyle. You doing 3-piece? Would that be too hot where you are, or is the air-conditioning good?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Pleats are a little more classic, IMO, but otherwise what you suggest is totally according to Hoyle. You doing 3-piece? Would that be too hot where you are, or is the air-conditioning good?
We have a lot of outdoor events which are a little warm, but we do avoid the summer months except for a few red sea rig parties and balls. Anything inside is freezing in the A/C as is the winter where it can get to sub zero. I had 2 DJs - 1 8oz and 1 12oz. The 12 went walkabout, so I'm replacing that with an 11 or 12oz which is ok in the summer and warm enough in the winter. I quite like the idea of a couple of waistcoats - 1 in the same cloth as the suit and maybe something like a white linen DB, but I suspect that my wife and other people with better taste may dissuade me, as they did when I muttered about a white mess jacket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,642 Posts
I quite like the idea of a couple of waistcoats - 1 in the same cloth as the suit and maybe something like a white linen DB, but I suspect that my wife and other people with better taste may dissuade me, as they did when I muttered about a white mess jacket.
One with same cloth and lapels to match the grosgrain of the jacket is great. If your set unbends a little, a colored (or even black) silk brocade can be a nice addition. I have one from WW Chan in royal blue silk that was originally destined for a cheongsam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,642 Posts
Flat front was classic before pleats were classic. Either is acceptable today.

My own DJ, made in 1926, came with flat front trousers.
Fair enough-- the main issue is whether it complements the jacket and the lower half of the wearer. I get better results on both with pleats. YMMV.
 

·
Connoisseur
Joined
·
5,988 Posts
If you run with more traditional social clubs, the notch may raise an eyebrow or two.
If I ran into anyone who raised an eyebrow because I was wearing notched lapels I would consider them to be too snooty for me to care one way or another about their raised eyebrow. I have little use for snooty people.

For what it's worth I think shawl lapels look more like a bathrobe than a dinner jacket, but it doesn't bother me or concern me one way or another if someone else likes them and wears them. It's just personal preference, nothing more.

I say wear the lapel style that you like the best and don't be concerned about what others think, including me. :icon_smile_big:

Cruiser
 
1 - 20 of 62 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top