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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So per my understanding, the power way to wear a 3 piece suit is with the buttom best button undone, and not button the jacket. However I had someone mention you should never wear a 3 piece with a belt. Is this true? I was taught always to wear a belt with a suit, even if the pants waist fits so as not to require one.
 

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The bottom vest button is left undone ....

The jacket should have the top two buttons buttoned unless it is a three to two button roll. In that case, I always leave the top button unbuttoned, just buttoning the middle button. Usually, those who wear a three-piece suit wear braces. Those that don't would assuredly wear a belt.
 

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The waistcoat (vest) should have the bottom button open. You can leave the coat open or button it. The top button on a 2-button suit or the middle button on a 3-button suit is what should be fastened if you chose to. A 3-piece suit should not be worn with a belt, as it would disturb the line of the waistcoat over the trousers. Braces will help keep the suit put together. Suits should not be worn with belts. Side adjusters are always better than belt loops with belts. A belt decreases the formality of the outfit.
 

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Buttoning info

A properly tailored three-piece suit elongates the line of the trousers, making you look taller, enhancing your command presence, and will look great all day.

Classically, and to fit properly, the vest is always worn with high-rise trousers, preferably with an English back, and suspenders, only. This allows the trousers stay at the proper height without a belt, which would cause a nasty bulge under the vest, anyway. The waist needs to be approximately one inch larger than what you would wear with a belt. This allows the trousers to hang properly, is more comfortable, and provides ventilation.

Although this parameter has varied over the last several hundred years, currently, the points of the vest should extend at least two inches past the waistband. The waistband and shirt are never supposed to show -- this looks very bad! A classically cut vest will always have the last button unfastened; indeed, it is probably cut so it is idle and cannot be buttoned at all. The other buttons on the vest are all buttoned. The vest may be of a matching color, pattern, and material to the jacket and trousers or may contrast or coordinate. This latter alternative can be very good looking.

The jacket is normally buttoned when standing. For a two or three button jacket, unless you are a PRC politico, never button the bottom button -- looks dreadful! For a a three button that does not roll to two, button the middle and possibly the top. For a four button, I'm afraid I really don't know...

You must develop the habit of fastening and unfastening the buttons when changing from seated to standing mode and back (for someone with as finely honed sense of style as the OP, this should prove no problem). Although not strictly in compliance, having the jacket unbuttoned when standing can make you seem more approachable. If you are a merchant or shopkeeper, this can be a useful technique.

In the office, you can remove your jacket for activities in the immediate area of your desk and still maintain some level of formality. Put the jacket back on for any meetings, or whenever you walk down the hall.

Occasionally, for amusement, you may stand outside your office with arms akimbo and bark out nonsensical orders, the better to strike terror into the hearts of your underlings. Later, to maintain their confused state, you should give them a small cash bonus, not more than 100 Yankee dollars each.

There is a current fashion fad of wearing a vest with short rise casual slacks and showing the shirt/waistband. Orsini, of course, finds this hideous, but you may indulge if you are young, thin, and extremely charming, but probably not for business, unless one of the glamour industries.
 

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Occasionally, for amusement, you may stand outside your office with arms akimbo and bark out nonsensical orders, the better to strike terror into the hearts of your underlings.
I prefer the image of hooking the thumbs into the armholes of the vest when performing the above maneuver. Of course, with the current no-smoking rules, the total effect, with a well-chewed cigar protruding and its ash cascading down aforesaid vest, is no longer possible:icon_smile_wink:
 

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I prefer the image of hooking the thumbs into the armholes of the vest when performing the above maneuver. Of course, with the current no-smoking rules, the total effect, with a well-chewed cigar protruding and its ash cascading down aforesaid vest, is no longer possible:icon_smile_wink:
Ths is good, too.
 

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So per my understanding, the power way to wear a 3 piece suit is with the buttom best button undone, and not button the jacket. However I had someone mention you should never wear a 3 piece with a belt. Is this true? I was taught always to wear a belt with a suit, even if the pants waist fits so as not to require one.
"power way" Huh. What does that mean?
A real suit has side adjusters or a Dax system. You don't have to wear suspenders though but they are pretty good.

I would probably wear a belt with seperates or a very casual suit ie denim.
Seconded wholeheartedly.
 

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So per my understanding, the power way to wear a 3 piece suit is with the buttom best button undone, and not button the jacket. However I had someone mention you should never wear a 3 piece with a belt. Is this true? I was taught always to wear a belt with a suit, even if the pants waist fits so as not to require one.
I'm not sure about the fashion of buttoning contributing to power particularly, but the three-piece suit does enhance your air of authority. As I mentioned, if you want to project a more approachable image, you can leave the jacket unbuttoned. Shopkeepers do this sometimes, although I expect once they are done selling for the day and head down to the Moose Lodge to relax, they button up.

The last vest button is normally left unfastened and is frequently idle (couldn't be buttoned, anyway.)

Certainly, if the trousers are intended to be used with a belt, i.e.: have belt loops, then wear a belt. Some trousers have side tabs, or some other arrangement, rather than belt loops, and then, of course, no belt is worn. Now, if you are going to covert a pair of trousers or slacks to side tabs, be sure to have the belt loops removed, as otherwise this will look rather gauche.

As I described before, no belt with a three-piece suit as it causes that nasty bulge and the three-piece suit is intended to get suspenders, anyway.

Please let us know how it works out.
 

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A real suit has side adjusters or a Dax system. You don't have to wear suspenders though but they are pretty good.

I would probably wear a belt with seperates or a very casual suit ie denim.
A denim suit? :crazy:

...

Occasionally, for amusement, you may stand outside your office with arms akimbo and bark out nonsensical orders, the better to strike terror into the hearts of your underlings. Later, to maintain their confused state, you should give them a small cash bonus, not more than 100 Yankee dollars each.

There is a current fashion fad of wearing a vest with short rise casual slacks and showing the shirt/waistband. Orsini, of course, finds this hideous, but you may indulge if you are young, thin, and extremely charming, but probably not for business, unless one of the glamour industries.
Is this who you're thinking of? :icon_smile_big:



I once tried a waistcoat with jeans. My shirt puffed out the sides and it generally looked pretty bad, so I didn't do it again. When I discovered the pictures on the J. Crew website it did nothing to improve our already sordid relationship. That one night stand was enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Certainly, if the trousers are intended to be used with a belt, i.e.: have belt loops, then wear a belt. Some trousers have side tabs, or some other arrangement, rather than belt loops, and then, of course, no belt is worn. Now, if you are going to covert a pair of trousers or slacks to side tabs, be sure to have the belt loops removed, as otherwise this will look rather gauche.

As I described before, no belt with a three-piece suit as it causes that nasty bulge and the three-piece suit is intended to get suspenders, anyway.

Please let us know how it works out.
Ok, what about a 3 piece suit where the trousers have belt loops?
 

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It has nothing to do with 'power dressing' what ever you think that might be.

The correct and indeed consequentially understated way is:

Waist coat (vest if your are American) bottom button unfastened.
3 btn s/b Coat - fastened by the middle only when appropriate.
Preferable not to have a belt, side adjusters or braces are better. No great faux pas in the eyes of most you will ever meet to have one though.
 

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It has nothing to do with 'power dressing' what ever you think that might be.

The correct and indeed consequentially understated way is:

Waist coat (vest if your are American) bottom button unfastened.
3 btn s/b Coat - fastened by the middle only when appropriate.
Preferable not to have a belt, side adjusters or braces are better. No great faux pas in the eyes of most you will ever meet to have one though.
He already said it was a typo and he meant "proper."

The wear a belt without doubt.
No, please don't. Just get brace buttons sewn in the waistband.

Pardon me as I get the bleach out and apply it to my eyes...
Sorry for that. :icon_smile_big:

In that case, wear a belt, but I think such a suit must not be classically tailored...
I've seen three piece suits from the "golden era" of men's clothing that have belt loops on the trousers, but they also usually have brace buttons or side/back adjusters.
 
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