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200+ year old Russian Reindeer Leather

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27K views 81 replies 23 participants last post by  medwards  
#1 ·
I am thinking of getting a bespoke briefcase made from this leather. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks
SCM
 
#2 ·
I know that there been a lot of discussion on this forum about shoes made from this hide - I think Clevrly and New and Lingwood sell them...although intrigued as to both the cost and the manufacturer of the case.

quote:Originally posted by scm996

I am thinking of getting a bespoke briefcase made from this leather. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks
SCM
Vik
 
#5 ·
In February there was an article, I believe in the [London] Sunday Times reporting that the diver who has salvaged the bales of Russian calf is retiring. The work requires him to use a pressure hose to erode a five-foot bank of mud in almost total darkness beneath a major shipping lane.

The article said that over the years about one hundred pairs of bespoke shoes have been made from the reindeer leather, the first pair for Prince Charles and later one for the diver, who said he was afraid to wear a pair of shoes worth £2000.

I can't find the article on-line, but Cleverley has it posted in the shop window. As the diver went down about once a year, and as there is no sign of a successor, these hides may not be available much longer.
 
#6 ·
Of course, it's anyone's guess as to how much is in the warehouse.

Also, I think that there's still something like 2/3 of the ship's cargo still down there. Presumably, there will be a hobbyist diver foolish enough to renegotiate the rights in the future.

What I really want, however, is for someone to figure out how to tan leather like this again today. It's amazing stuff, and I'd wear it every other day if it weren't irreplaceable.
 
#7 ·
Could someone who has a pair of these please explain what makes it so great and so different? I'm talking about physical properties (appearance, feel, breathability, toughness, etc), not historical value or uniqueness...both of which I can certainly appreciate!
 
#8 ·
quote:Originally posted by Teacher

Could someone who has a pair of these please explain what makes it so great and so different? I'm talking about physical properties (appearance, feel, breathability, toughness, etc), not historical value or uniqueness...both of which I can certainly appreciate!
There is no question that much of the allure rests with the story. However, this leather does make up into some rather nice shoes. Mine are a sort of dark honey brown, with lightly embossed crosschecks. They have become extremely comfortable and have held up extremely well over the years (mine -- punch toe oxfords -- were made for me in 1989 while John Carnera and George Glasgow were still at New & Lingwood). The leather itself had somewhat distinct aroma, though I must confess I have not been conscious of it in years.

I do understand that there is some stock left. The previous cache lasted the folks at Cleverley for almost a decade, so it is hard to judge how much longer the most recent supply will last. Suffice it to say that the expense and difficulty of the recovery efforts make it exceptionally unlikely that any more of what remains in the mud-embedden holds will ever be recovered. Moreover, I believe that any such efforts would need the approval of the Prince of Wales, who as Duke of Corwall has oversight and rights to the sunken remains.
 
#12 ·
quote:Originally posted by medwards

quote:Originally posted by JRR
And one cannot find finer fur, than saber tooth cat.
I believe you may be mistaken. Rumour has it that LeChatRJ has very fine fur indeed. [}:)]
If that doesn't bring him back, nothing will!
 
#14 ·
I have a “Metta Catharina†watch strap that I use on my Panerai watch which is made from this leather. Very rich, interesting leather. I don’t think there’s anything really that makes it worth all the money except that it’s just so unique and ,well, neat.

Here’s a pic of the strap (not my watch or strap) but this is what the leather looks like in a more raw/untreaded state then you would probably find on a pair of shoes.
https://imageshack.us
 
#17 ·
quote:Originally posted by DocHolliday

quote:Originally posted by Mithras

Here’s a pic of the strap (not my watch or strap) but this is what the leather looks like in a more raw/untreaded state then you would probably find on a pair of shoes.
[/URL]
Handsome. May I ask where you found it?
paneristi.com has a sales forum for both watches and various Panerai accoutrements. These straps do come up for sale from time to time, but getting a new, unworn one is increasingly difficult. If you are lucky and quite fast you may be able to acquire one for around $250-300+.
 
#19 ·
quote:Originally posted by medwards

quote:Originally posted by JRR
And one cannot find finer fur, than saber tooth cat.
I believe you may be mistaken. Rumour has it that LeChatRJ has very fine fur indeed. [}:)]
Regardless of how fine the fur of LeChatRJ is or how wonderful the catmere (tm) made therefrom, it simply does not have the cachet of the fur from the Saber Tooth Cat. Sorry, RJ. ;)
 
#20 ·
quote:Originally posted by Teacher

Could someone who has a pair of these please explain what makes it so great and so different? I'm talking about physical properties (appearance, feel, breathability, toughness, etc), not historical value or uniqueness...both of which I can certainly appreciate!
  • The cross-hatched finish is unique and very attractive. I would imagine that any tannery worth its salt could reproduce the effect, but I have never seen it any other leather.
  • Probably because of the time that it has spent on the bottom of the ocean, there is a significant but subtle variegation in the color and finish of the leather, along with lots of character-giving imperfections.
  • The smell. I don't know how to describe it, but the leather has a distinctive and pleasant smell that I have never encountered anywhere with any other leather.

The Russian reindeer leather is something of a gimmick, but it's a good gimmick that makes for beautiful shoes.

(It's also worth noting that the cost of Cleverley bespoke shoes made from Russian reindeer is not significantly higher than the cost of calfskin Cleverley bespoke shoes. Neither calfskin nor Russian reindeer shoes are cheap; but once you overcome the mental and monetary hurdle and decide that you have to have Cleverley shoes, the additional cost of Russian reindeer is relatively trivial. Additionally, I suspect that significantly more than 100 pairs of bespoke shoes have been made from the salvaged Russian reindeer hides. If it were only 100 pairs, I would be able to account for almost 10% of the pairs in existence; and I don't think that's plausible.)
 
#22 ·
quote:Originally posted by jcusey

quote:Originally posted by Teacher

Could someone who has a pair of these please explain what makes it so great and so different? I'm talking about physical properties (appearance, feel, breathability, toughness, etc), not historical value or uniqueness...both of which I can certainly appreciate!
  • The cross-hatched finish is unique and very attractive. I would imagine that any tannery worth its salt could reproduce the effect, but I have never seen it any other leather.
  • Probably because of the time that it has spent on the bottom of the ocean, there is a significant but subtle variegation in the color and finish of the leather, along with lots of character-giving imperfections.
  • The smell. I don't know how to describe it, but the leather has a distinctive and pleasant smell that I have never encountered anywhere with any other leather.

The Russian reindeer leather is something of a gimmick, but it's a good gimmick that makes for beautiful shoes.

(It's also worth noting that the cost of Cleverley bespoke shoes made from Russian reindeer is not significantly higher than the cost of calfskin Cleverley bespoke shoes. Neither calfskin nor Russian reindeer shoes are cheap; but once you overcome the mental and monetary hurdle and decide that you have to have Cleverley shoes, the additional cost of Russian reindeer is relatively trivial. Additionally, I suspect that significantly more than 100 pairs of bespoke shoes have been made from the salvaged Russian reindeer hides. If it were only 100 pairs, I would be able to account for almost 10% of the pairs in existence; and I don't think that's plausible.)
The leather was copied and a modern version produced some years ago (by Pittards if memory serves). Missed the point in my view.
I have visited the workshop in Cornwall where the original leather is cleaned, washed to remove sediment, soaked in fresh water for a few days to remove salt,then dried and 'restored' - a very interesting process. The oils that were originally used to curry the leather (birch oil) are augmented with various softening agents such as mutton tallow and cod oil which are soaked up during pegging (the leather is pegged or toggled over a frame to prevent shrinkage when drying).
The smell referred to is the birch oils and the softening agents. The cross hatching was originally done by hand - today you would do this on a large press. The leather was tanned the old way for 9 to 18 months in pits with oak bark. Today it is done in days in huge drums.
What you are paying for is a genuine hand crafted leather product.
Incidentally the leather was highly prized 200 years ago due to its suppleness, water resistance (lucky, huh?) and because it repelled insects according to Garbett & Skeltons book on the subject.
 
#23 ·
My pair is much like Medwards. I was browsing along New Bond Street one day half a dozen years ago and happened into the arcade that houses Cleverley. In the window, I saw the most glorious pair of shoes--they looked as if they'd been made from the leather used on eighteenth-century French bookbindings. I opened the door to find out how much such shoes cost. Some months later I had myself measured, some months after that I sent them a cheque, and it was eighteen months before I could go through the necessary intermediate fitting and take possession.

They keep saying they'd like to make me a second pair.
 
#25 ·
quote:Originally posted by aportnoy

If you're located in or visting NYC, the Dunhill Shop on Madison Ave has a pair of the Russian Reindeer on display. They are exquisite but priced around $2000, I believe.
This is the problem I have had with the Dunhill RTW shoes: they're so expensive that they're close in price to Cleverley bespoke, but the quality of construction and the quality of the skins used just isn't there.
 
#26 ·
I agree John. I was underwhelmed with their price:quality ratio and left empty handed. And as you know, for me that's a real accomplishment.:)

BTW, I'm leaning toward the Kingsway (still undecided on color) on the 888 or maybe even the 707 and the Falkirk in nutmeg suede on the 82 with dainite sole for today's EG show. What do you think?