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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Believe me, I've looked around on this one. And I keep getting contradictory advice.

Which better complements a "big and tall" man? I.e., both tall and girthy (i.e., not the athletic type of "big").

Thanks!
 

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I believe this was linked to some years ago when it was first written. Of course it's not all good, but there are some solid pieces of advice there.

https://men.style.com/gq/features/landing?id=content_5771

Excerpt from the Horatio Sanz slide:
The 5 Tips Every Large Man Should Know
1) Wear a pocket square. It brings the focus to your chest, not your gut.
2) Keep your jacket buttoned unless you're sitting down.
3) Wear a simple, elegant shirt. Avoid plaids and checks.
4) You can wear flat-front pants. They are engineered to be comfortable, even without pleats.
5) Avoid superskinny ties and lapels. Proportion with your torso is key.

I know it doesn't touch on your original question about buttons, but hopefuly it still helps.
 

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If you are over six feet tall you can wear both. girthy vs. obese is the key. If you are fat then I would say wear a 2 button high button stance. If you aren't fat but just a little big around the middle then I would suggest a 3 button rolled to 2.
 

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I would support a double-breasted suit, since that's my favorite silhouette in the first place, and it happens to be a controversial matter in this case. Some people think that a double-breasted suit jacket emphasizes the rotundity of fat men; others (like me) think that its diagonal line emphasizes shoulder width rather than waist breadth. Try it and see what you think.
 

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If you are considering the MTM route, then go for the Huntsman style, even if you are looking at RTW you might consider something close to it:
Longer jacket
Single button
Flared skirt


The longer jacket covers more of your body - this covers the belly and your body, it makes you look smaller because jackets generally are not long.
With a single button, it means the jacket will not fit as tight and because it is more relaxed and open, again it hides some of your size.
Flared skirt, more open in the belly area so it gives you more space.


2 vs 3 button; 2 button all the time in your case, something that is not a tight fit. RL have suit blazers that are a 3/2 roll and more relaxed jacket (more room) compared to traditional British and Italian suits. This gives your body more room and the roll on the top button attracts the attention. This also has some of the advantages of a Huntsman style.
 

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Gee, aren't you glad you're no longer getting contradictory advice? :icon_smile_big:

Here's mine. I'd agree with either two button or 3/roll2. But not with a high button stance. A lower button stance will give you a longer line. Otherwise, you risk the Walking Wall Syndrome. And do pleats and cuffs.

I was once rather muscular and bulky, though only of middle height. And I found with the assistance of my tailor, that much of the advice regarding patterns seemed not to apply. Specifically, lighter colors were fine for well cut jackets and slacks. Patterns could include glen checks, window pane overchecks and birdseyes, and still be flattering. You need not limit yourself to stripes, particularly since you're tall. If you're quite large, patterns help break up your bulk. I'd look for a jacket and slacks without exaggerated details, I.e., shoulders, lapel widths, etc. Moderation and balance will help you look majestic, not scary. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What I'm Hearing

What I'm hearing as the mind of the house is 2-button. (Perhaps 3-button, but only if roll pressed to the middle button.)

In a relaxed fit. Most definitely with longer body. In dark colors. Some suits with vertical stripes, perhaps other patterns.

---

Flanderian suggested pleats and cuffs. My hesitation with pleats is I wear my trousers on my hips, not at my waist. (Yes, I know, I know!) Functionally, pleats add no value there and are not complementary. Right?

Thanks!
 

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Flanderian suggested pleats and cuffs. My hesitation with pleats is I wear my trousers on my hips, not at my waist. (Yes, I know, I know!) Functionally, pleats add no value there and are not complementary. Right?
Wearing your trousers on your hips is not going to help. Wearing them at your waist is most flattering. I find that forward pleats are most flattering as they provide the best line. If not forward pleats go with flat front.
 

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I wear my trousers on my hips, not at my waist.
Things can change! :icon_smile_big:

Depending on how low you wear your trousers pleats may, or may not be of use. We're all built differently. Pesonally, if one wears their pants too low, it pretty much makes wearing a suit pointless, IMO.

I used to wear my pants pretty low, until I learned better. If you have any stomach at all it's even more important to wear them around it, not under it. Trust me, you'll look much better.

Regarding men of girth, there's an expression in either Italian or Greek (It's been a long time.) that roughly translates to, "A man with a stomach." That is, a man of respect. ;)
 

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If you're a tall guy, please, wear them at your waist. It has the added advantage of being slimming, contrary to what fashion designers may try to tell you about low rise flat fronts.

Forward pleats are indeed the most slimming type. I own a couple of trousers with them and don't want to go back to American-style reverse pleats. My hips are a bit wide and they help with this.
 

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If you're a tall guy, please, wear them at your waist. It has the added advantage of being slimming, contrary to what fashion designers may try to tell you about low rise flat fronts.

Forward pleats are indeed the most slimming type. I own a couple of trousers with them and don't want to go back to American-style reverse pleats. My hips are a bit wide and they help with this.
+10.

Very true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hips v. Waist

Okay! I understand trousers are supposed to be worn at one's waist.

Let's define where one's waist is. From my reading: It is not at one's hips, nor it is at one's belly button--it's halfway in between. Is that what we're talking about here?

I've always worn them at my hips. Hey, I was raised in the '60s and '70s. Can't say I knew any gentleman who wore them at their waist. Other than my Uncle Ted, and it was always a bit of a joke that he wore them "so high." Now that I've attained AARP-eligible age, I doubt one can teach this old dog such new tricks?! Besides, my body has morphed accordingly....

Hmm, to do so, I'd need to get trousers in a larger size (no kidding)--and a higher rise. I suppose that's where all this started: with a regular rise, they only go up so far. And a new belt.

I only wear suits one day a week, then it's sport coats.

I do understand all my getting-my-tie-tied-long-enough-to-reach-my-belt-buckle problems would then go away!

Hmm....
 

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No new belt....

Hmm, to do so, I'd need to get trousers in a larger size (no kidding)--and a higher rise. I suppose that's where all this started: with a regular rise, they only go up so far. And a new belt.
Try a pair of proper braces that attach to your trousers by buttons. Let your trousers hang from your shoulders. I know, I know, you have images of Larry King, Wall Street jerks, etc. Forget all that. Just try it and see whether you aren't more comfortable and confident because you no longer have to worry about your waistband being over/under your waist.
 

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And as long as you're wearing a coat, no one has to know anyway. :)
 

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Try a pair of proper braces that attach to your trousers by buttons. Let your trousers hang from your shoulders. I know, I know, you have images of Larry King, Wall Street jerks, etc. Forget all that. Just try it and see whether you aren't more comfortable and confident because you no longer have to worry about your waistband being over/under your waist.
I have recently started wearing braces whenever I wear a suit, sport coat, or sweater and it is amazing how much more comfortable they are and the thing I really like is the fact that I don't have to keep pulling up my trousers. That was something I had to do periodically regardless of how tight I cinched my belt.
 
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