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Tensomoko

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I'm new to the forum, got recently bitten by the suit bug. I got outbid on an Isaia suit on ebay a week ago, and was curious what you guys could tell me about it for future knowledge. Just, how much you think it was worth and how old the suit was based on the label. Thanks for any help.

 
Isaia makes excellent suits

That Gianluca Isaia suit is probably between 5 to 10 years old.

If possible, look for Enrico Isaia suits or sportscoats -- it is their premium line but may no longer be available in the U.S. The level of hand work is superlative, possibly exceeding Brioni.

I compared my Gianluca Isaia sportscoat to my red label Isaia suit (which was purchased more recently) and the former seems to have better tailoring. I don't know if these are 2 different lines in terms of quality or simply a re-branding. Experts on this forum may be able to enlighten us.
Currently, Neiman and Barneys both carry the red label Isaia.

Just be careful not to confuse the aforementioned lines with Gianluca Napoli -- their entry level line which retails for around $800.

If you can get that suit for around $300, I would say you've gotten yourself a very good deal.
 
You should watchout for over-pressing of dark colored suits. Looks like the suit has a "shine" in some areas from over-pressing. Also suits and jackets with real working sleeve buttons are much harder to fit to another owner.

Good luck!
 
Admittedly, I don't know much about Isaia but the suit looks exquisite. The working cuff and the striped lining are nice touches. Personally as an ebay addict, I can attest to the quality of armani_king as reputable seller with high end goods. The seller has written several informative ebay guides as tutorials for identifying and avoiding fake Armani clothing. I've purchased a T&A shirt and pair of pre-Prada era Chruch's brogues from armani_king. Also, $300 for an Isaia suit from the Gianluca line, which is the main line from what I believe with Enrico being their more hand-made line, is a good buy. I often see Armani black label and 20 year old Brioni sell for much more than that.
 
Enrico was their top line with the most handwork. Most people are familiar with the red and black label mainlines, which is usually available in Base "S" (softer.. what most folks think of when they think "Isaia") or "V" (slightly fuller chest, roped shoulders) models.

Isaia used to have a ton of models on the US market, all with slight variations on the cut - very confusing for the consumer. Enrico was the signature, flagship product -- green label if memory serves -- really stunning stuff for OTR, though lapels might look a tad dated depending upon the year. No longer in the US; not sure if available in Italy.

Hope this helps...
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Hey guys, I just purchased this from style forum. The poster told me that it was in excellent condition no noticeable flaws at least to his knowledge, i.e. no "sheen". Was wondering what you guys thought. I would like to wear it for interviews and stuff so I hope it won't look too "used" or unpolished. Is this price good as well? Also any idea how old it is?

https://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=130240
 
The suit doesn't look worn from what I can tell from the pictures and for $225 it seems to be a very high quality suit. Super 120s wool, fully canvassed, a large amount of hand stitching and you can't go wrong with a dark navy pinstripe. My only concern is that it may be a bit too flashy and delicate for wearing it at numerous interviews. It shouldn't be much of a problem just be sure to not give the suit too much of a beating because 120s wool fabric will tear and holes will wear easily. I have owned one Valentino Uomo suit that was fully canvassed but I don't know the quality of Valentino Tailoring. The suit seems to be higher quality or at least one par with the Uomo, but mine was not hand tailored and was made by Vestimenta and not Isaia.
 
Isaia can be a bit confusing with regards to their different lines. They are as follows:

Enrico Isaia - Top of the line, hand made and expensive. I have never actually seen one in a store in the US.

Gianluca Isaia Napoli - Excellent, and every bit the quality of the better known names. I only own an few of the ties, though I have seen the suits and they are lovely.

Isaia Napoli - This is the one with the red tag, and probably what you will find if you are looking for discounted gooods. Lots of hand work and top quality. Readily available in most big cities (Neiman Marcus and the like as well as independants such as Boyds, Stanley Korshak, etc. carry these). If you are patient (some of the cloth is a bit wild for me), this line is often at outlets, STP etc. Retail is generally in the $2500 - $3000 range, though as mentioned above, discounts can often be had. These are very well made suits and an excellent value relative to other Neopolitan makers, though you do have to have the right build for them (at least the ones I own). Though the sizes are true, the cut is one of fairly high arm-holes, slimmer pants and fairly low rise compared to what you may be used to if you are new to Italian suits. Just make sure you go to a brick and morter retailer to try on, or buy online from someone who allows returns for your first suit. For reference, I am 6' 185 with 34 waist and the 52 with 8L drop (US 42) fits me almost perfectly off the rack.
Note that this line used to have a grey and black label (similar to the Gianluca Isaia Napoli line) until about 3 or 4 years ago.

Gianluca Napoli - This is the diffusion line, mostly machine made. I have no experience with it, though it is not too well regarded on this forum. I suspect that may be in relation to the other Isaia lines and not necessarily to other makers at the same price point, but I don't know. Regardless, don't get confused with it and the high-end Giancaluca Isaia Napoli line.

Note that all of the above (with the possible exception of Gianluca Napoli) will not come with finished sleeves. Therefore, be careful of one that is finished as it will have been altered for someone, and once the button holes are cut, you can't just move them like the non-working sleeves. Alternatively, if you don't have a tailor who will cut the button holes, try Paul Winston at Winston Tailors in NYC. He is a contribution to this forum and does a good job at reasonable cost. I just have my tailor to the alterations but leave the sleeves unfinished and send it off to him for finishing.
 
Just to add to the note about Isaia fit in the post above - the advice to "try before you buy" is excellent. Also helps to really know your measurements.

I am a very standard 42L but, depending upon the model, am either a 44L (54L Euro) or a 44R with Isaia. I cannot even get a 42 jacket across my shoulders. Also note that some of the jackets are cut quite long as well and length can differ between jackets of the same model. Such is the price of handiwork, eh?

That said, they really work for those with an athletic build -- most feature an 8" drop.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Hey guys, I'm a very standard european 50, well, I could be a little less like a 48 it some styles as well. I fit a 50 boglioli pretty well, but I don't think anyone near me carries Isaia. I have a body type of broad shoulders, medium-small chest, medium-small waist, so I think this should be perfect.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Hey guys, just wanted to give you guys an update. I did buy a Isaia suit on ebay. To my eye it looks like the real thing, has no discernible flaws and very soft, never had 120's before. A couple issues, when I brought the suit to my tailor he said it was too small and the collar was rising up. That was attributed to me not being an 18 inches in the shoulder. He then went on to say that he maybe could fix it by removing the shoulder pads, or at least make it better for 50 bucks. I was advised to be worried about the V-shape of the jacket, but it wasn't an issue. It is a little tight in the chest, but the jacket waist was more than roomy. The pants are a little too short. The total lenght is fine thanks to the rise, but when I sit down the paints are a good 2-3 inches higher than my ankle. Not really sure what is appropriate since I plan to use it in interviews, and the original buyer put in a funny black strip around the end of the pants after altering it., so I'm not sure I can let anymore down. Otherwise I was pleased and it looks like it was a genuine deal. If I can't somehow get the suit to fit my apparently "more than enough" shoulders.
 
Congrats on the purchase. Here's some info on Isaia from their promotional material


Gianluca Isaia Napoli remains faithful to the art of Neapolitan sartorial tailoring, and Isaia garments remain virtually unchanged since the 1930s, completely handcrafted by master tailors in Napoli, Italy. The soft rounded shoulder is a signature to Isaia suits. Isaia is sold in the finest clothing stores in the United States as their premiere label.
Hugh Jackson wearing Isaia at the New York premier of Australia.
 
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