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Luciano Barbera Suits

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#21 ·
Sophistication said:
Opening scene, one of the better outfits. The Pink short tie and fat Connery Bond though just toppled that movie.
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I was actually referring to the scenes after the one with the pink tie when Connery is with Jimmy Dean. His coat is a brown plaid, where as the last scene of the pre-title sequence he wears a brown herringbone coat. Both are very nice. Actually, in the opening scene of the movie Connery sports a light beige suit, which appears to be the same one that he later wore the pink tie with.
 
#22 ·
Matt S said:
I was actually referring to the scenes after the one with the pink tie when Connery is with Jimmy Dean. His coat is a brown plaid, where as the last scene of the pre-title sequence he wears a brown herringbone coat. Both are very nice. Actually, in the opening scene of the movie Connery sports a light beige suit, which appears to be the same one that he later wore the pink tie with.
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Yes, you are correct, he's wearing a merino polo neck in the first scene. Can't say I've watched even parts of that movie more than twice. The moonbuggy scene is horrid. The best scene is when he takes the girls tops and then strangles her for the info. Now that's a Connery Bond.
 
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#24 ·
All of this discussion about the different Luciano Barbera labels piqued my curiosity. So, I sauntered upstairs and disappeared into the closet for some research. I don't have too many Barbera suits in total and only two of them here in La Jolla. However, one that just happens to reside at this home is my favorite amongst all the Barberas.

Approximately ten years (more or less) ago I purchased this particular Barbera from Louis Boston. The manufacturer's order label inside the R/H interior breast pocket is certainly Saint Andrews. The label is identical to the many Saint Andrews for Sulka order labels in my wardrobe.

But, exactly what is this particular suit? How long ago did Barbera begin to market its Sartoriale label?

The label on this suit says across its top edge "Luciano Barbera" in thread colored the same as the label's color. There is a small white crest beneath the Barbera name and the word "Blancs" in the crest's lower circumference banner. Finally, in the same tone-on-tone used for the Barbera name, there appears "Hand Made In Italy" centered along the label's bottom edge beneath the crest.

Nowhere does this label state "Sartoriale". Yet, this suit seems to be the equal to or perhaps even better made than my Barbera Sartoriales. It's extensively hand detailed, fully canvassed, etc. Is this suit perhaps simply a predecessor of the entire Sartoriale label project and the advent of various quality levels?

Is any forum member familiar with the details I mention?

_____________________________________________
 
#25 ·
IMO, the whole Barbera by Attolini line was constructed by some ebay retailers to drum up enthusiasm for their product. I am almost 100% sure that they were never made to the standard of the Attolini main line
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I was almost certainly the first ebay seller to point out in my auctions that SOME of the Barbera Sartoriale coats were most definately made in the same factory as the Attolini Sartorio line, and to the same spec. Additionally, the evidence seeme to point to the Sartoria Attolini's being made there as well, ie it was the Attolini factory. I did not however, at that time or at any time after, say that the Barbera Sartoriale suits were on par with Sartoria Attolini, because they are not. The differences are not so great, but there are differences. Unfortunately, as always seems to happen, everybody and their brother copied my auctions. That was not such a big deal, but it was a big deal that many sellers started to claim that every Barbera coat they have is Attolini made, (most of which are not.) Further they like to claim that Barbera Sartoriale = Sartoria or Cesare Attolini, which it does not, So buyer beware.

I added the Barbera/Attolini connection info to auctions for Barbera/Attolini coats because it was true and relevant. I do not however feel that there is a big difference in quality with those coats, In fact I think that the quality of the Barbera Sartoriale line has stayed at a consistent level (excellent) throughout the manfacturer changes. The strength of the Barbera line is not just construction quality or maker. It is fabric selection and styling, which is IMO at the very highest level among RTW brands.

There IS a reason to differentiate between manufacturers of the line though, and that is cut. The cut has varied greatly over the past few years, usually corresponding to a change in maker. Some fit me much better than others, and I'm sure I'm not the only one that holds true for. Which you willl like depends on your fitting requirements.

Honestly, I am not even a fan of the Barbera Sartoriale line as I think it is lacking versus it's peers and it's main selling point is the Carlo Barbera fabric.
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Honestly I disagree. I think Barbera stands head and shoulders above its' peers.
 
#27 ·
Sophistication said:
Yes, you are correct, he's wearing a merino polo neck in the first scene. Can't say I've watched even parts of that movie more than twice. The moonbuggy scene is horrid. The best scene is when he takes the girls tops and then strangles her for the info. Now that's a Connery Bond.
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I just watched it last night with a friend who want to see all the Bond films. I've seen all the Bond films many times and know pretty much all of the suits in most of the fims. Some of the suits in Roger Moore's early films I've (thankfully) forgotten.
 
#28 · (Edited)
A Harris said:
In fact I think that the quality of the Barbera Sartoriale line has stayed at a consistent level (excellent) throughout the manfacturer changes. The strength of the Barbera line is not just construction quality or maker. It is fabric selection and styling, which is IMO at the very highest level among RTW brands.

There IS a reason to differentiate between manufacturers of the line though, and that is cut. The cut has varied greatly over the past few years, usually corresponding to a change in maker. Some fit me much better than others, and I'm sure I'm not the only one that holds true for. Which you willl like depends on your fitting requirements. .
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You can spot the Attolini influenced cut. And the fabrics are dead on. And some would say that cut is better than actually Attolini. The quality/handiwork are not on par with CA, nor Borrelli that I own. But the styling and fabric may be better imo. The cut, style and fabric choices have really hooked me. And don't forget the price.;)
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
I just ordered an Isaia suit, and it also has the label 'Blanc'. This particular suit is made with 'Carlo Barbera' cloth, so I'm assuming the 'Blanc' label is supposed to recognize some aspect of the cloth used.
 
#31 ·
Barbera website

For those interested, here's the link to the Barbera website:

I first recall seeing Barbera clothes in 1984 in the Louis Boston catalog (I looked for them in Italy that year but couldn't find them). As Andrew Harris says, the label back then was white and included the 'blancs" monogram. I don't recall seeing the "Sartoriale" label until the late 1990s but suspect it was meant to differentiate the higher quality line from the "Club" line.
 
#32 ·
My understanding is that the garments Attolini produces at their factory for other makers like LB and Eligo are mostly machine made with a little handwork, while Attolini`s own line is mostly handmade with some machine canvassing.

Isaia and Attolini are probably similar in the sense that they incorporate machine work and some modern trends in their design, but Isaia takes this approach much further than Attolini.
 
#33 ·
A Harris said:
I do not however feel that there is a big difference in quality with those coats, In fact I think that the quality of the Barbera Sartoriale line has stayed at a consistent level (excellent) throughout the manfacturer changes. The strength of the Barbera line is not just construction quality or maker. It is fabric selection and styling, which is IMO at the very highest level among RTW brands.

<snip>

There IS a reason to differentiate between manufacturers of the line though, and that is cut. The cut has varied greatly over the past few years, usually corresponding to a change in maker. Some fit me much better than others, and I'm sure I'm not the only one that holds true for. Which you willl like depends on your fitting requirements.

<snip>

Honestly I disagree. I think Barbera stands head and shoulders above its' peers.
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I concur on all points. I own LBCS suits or sportcoats from several different OEM's (judging by the labels) and all are excellent. I can't say I've found much difference between the different Barbera OEM's in terms of quality. Some details are different, for instance my oldest one (from FB via Louis when I was a grad student, badged only "Luciano Barbera for Louis Boston" on a black background and with the only internal label being one with the Grilux holding company name on it)) has more pronounced shirtsleeves than the newer ones, and it's also the only one with a center vent. Given the sometimes circuitous path of overstocks, I have no idea how old it is, though I purchased it in 1997 or 1998.
 
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