Who are they and what are the best bang for the buck?
Dont Eat The Mints....
Dont Eat The Mints....
Top 10 Italian shoe makers
antirabbit
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Who are they and what are the best bang for the buck?
Dont Eat The Mints....
Dont Eat The Mints....
Joined
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3,297 Posts
I'm no expert but I've always thought a. testoni were quite nice and can be had sometimes at a discount. I've seeks them often at "off 5th" and on e-bay. Bruno Magli and Ferragamo are quite nicely done but I believe they have several different lines and some are a better quality then others. I'm still not sure how to tell them apart though.
Santoni's are quite nice and I own a pair of brown oxfords.
Santoni's are quite nice and I own a pair of brown oxfords.
Don't even go close to Ferragamo. I have had mine for about 4 months and the leather is tearing my flesh while the sole develops small holes to expose some sort of black foamy substance. Piece of s**t... I am glad I only payed $130 at the Rack, probably $130 too many.
Honesty pays, but it doesn't seem to pay enough to suit some people. - F. M. Hubbard
Honesty pays, but it doesn't seem to pay enough to suit some people. - F. M. Hubbard
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3,297 Posts
Thanks for the heads up. I remeber seeing a pair of brown suede lace ups there once and thought they were quite attractive. The angel of discretion however talked me out of it and now I'm glad.
By the way, does anyone have an opinion on Moreschi. Some of their styles are more down to earth and just wondering about the quality.
From the Shoe Diety Jcusey in no particular order:
Italy
A. Testoni -- Three different levels of quality. Regular-line shoes (now called Studium, I believe) are okay, if a little bit fashion-forward. The Black Label shoes are better. They're all Bologna-constructed, and every so often I see a model that I actually could wear. Most of them are a bit too fashion-forward for my tastes, and the prices (over $700 per pair) are high. The third line is called Amedeo Testoni and consists of Goodyear-welted and Norwegian constructed shoes. These are excellently-made but mostly unattractive to my eyes. They're also extremely expensive for what you're getting.
Bruno Magli -- Magli has a number of different lines. The only line worth talking about is the Platinum line. They appear to be well made (I think that they're Blake-constructed), but the designs are a bit over-the-top for me. They're also very expensive for the quality. I don't believe that Magli actually owns any production facilities but rather contracts all production out to third parties.
Silvano Lattanzi -- Handmade shoes of impeccable quality. Lattanzi was originally brought to the United States by Louis Boston and is a pioneer here of handmade shoes and very high prices. He's best known for gunboat-sized Norwegian- or Bentivegna-constructed shoes with flashy antiquing, but he can do more subdued styles as well.
Kiton -- Kiton's shoes have a eye-popping antiquing similar to what one sees on Lattanzi shoes, but the last shapes tend to be sleeker and the designs, while unusual, are generally more conservative.
Sutor Mantellassi -- I will admit that I have a soft spot in my heart for Sutor Mantellassi shoes. I love the way that they do Norwegian construction (with a single row of stitching rather than the flashier two braided rows favored by other makers) and their innovative use of skin stitching. Like most Italian producers, Mantellassi has more than one line: a Blake-constructed line of good but not outstanding quality and a Norwegian or Goodyear-constructed line that is of excellent quality.
Gravati -- One of my favorite Italian manufacturers, not because there aren't better producers out there (there are) but because Gravati makes an excellent shoe for a reasonable price and because they are almost infinitely flexible in what they can and will produce. Over the years, I have placed many, many special orders for Gravati shoes, and they are always right and of remarkably consistent quality. Their shoes are mostly Blake- and Blake/Rapid-constructed, but they will make Goodyear-welted shoes on request.
Borgioli -- Borgioli is a major producer of private-label shoes, some of which are made to execrable standards of quality and which Borgioli would never want to claim. Hey, they need to survive. The shoes produced under their own label are very good. Most are Blake-constructed. A few are Norwegian-constructed, and they are excellent.
Romano Martegani -- Martegani operates a very good Blake and Blake/Rapid factory, and they are endlessly flexible. Gravati will almost never say no to a customer's cockamamie ideas for a shoe, but they will say no sometimes. Martegani won't. These are good, not excellent, shoes offered for a reasonable price. User Ron Rider, formerly the shoe manager at Franco's in Richmond, is now the US distributer for Martegani.
Salvatore Ferragamo -- Like Bruno Magli, Ferragamo doesn't own any of their own production facilities. Also like Bruno Magli, they market shoes of widely varying qualities. The Studio line shoes are cemented and not worth the money they cost. The Lavarazione Originale line shoes are generally Blake-constructed and are often attractive and well-made, if overpriced. The Tramezza line shoes are Goodyear-welted and are very good. Ferragamo has a joint venture with Zegna called Zefer, and Zefer produces all of the Zegna-labelled shoes. I believe, although I am not certain, that Zegna owns the production facilities for these shoes, some of which are very good.
StefanoBi -- I don't know a whole lot about StefanoBi shoes, but I believe that this was Stefano Branchini's original company and that he sold it to LVMH in the 1990s. The StefanoBi factory apparently produces shoes for all of the LVMH companies, including Berluti. The only pair of StefanoBi shoes that I ever saw (square-toe tan wingtip balmorals) were attractive in a flashy, Italian sort of way.
Stefano Branchini -- If I recall correctly, I believe that Sr. Branchini started this company after he sold StefanoBi to LVMH. I have never seen any of these shoes in the flesh, and I really can't comment on the quality of construction. What I can say is that these shoes, to me, represent everything that is wrong with Italian shoemaking today. They're ugly and over-the-top. It's like Sr. Branchini took all that is excessive about Lattanzi shoes and used it as a toned-down model for what he wanted to do.
Artioli -- I believe, although I am not sure, that Artioni shoes are mostly Bologna-constructed. They look to be well-made and are undoubtedly very flexible. I have two primary complaints with Artioli shoes. First is the leather that they tend to use: it's that glove-leather-looking stuff that Italian shoes were known for in the 1980s. Sure, it's soft, but it doesn't wear very well. Secondly, they have succumbed to the witch's shoes trend: their shoes nowadays tend to have elongated, needle-nose snouts that I think are extremely ugly.
Santoni -- Santoni produces many, many different lines of shoes. The Nuvola shoes have natural rubber soles and are decently-constructed and comfortable Blake shoes. The Classic line consists of some Bologna, some Blake, and some Goodyear shoes. The new Bologna models, in particular, are made on a very attractive round-toe last and are extremely flexible. The Fatte a Mano line consists of some Blake and some Goodyear, Norwegian, or Bentivegna shoes. Many of the Fatte a Mano models are, well, ugly, with overly-elongated, pointy, witch's-shoes-looking snouts; but when they're right, they're very, very right. Regardless, while you can complain about the looks of the non-Blake Fatte a Manos, you can't complain about the construction. It's excellent.
Moreschi -- Moreschi is yet another good maker of mid-range Blake-constructed shoes. Much of what they sell is, ah, exuberant. Combinations of blue peccary with blue ostrich leg are to be found. You don't have to buy those. The normal shoes are well-made and reasonably priced. Probably a small step below Gravati in quality of construction, and much below Gravati in flexibility of offerings and receptivity to special orders.
Fratelli Peluso -- I have seen a number of different types of Peluso shoes. The first is a line of Goodyear-welted shoes that look to be well-constructed and fairly-priced. From the website, it appears that these shoes have a gemmed linen feather and are machine-welted just as most English welted shoes. Given the price (under $500 per pair), this is to be expected. Peluso also makes a line of Blake-constructed shoes and yet another line of Blake-constructed shoes sold under the "Peluso for To Boot Adam Derrick" label. Both appear to be relatively well-constructed shoes offered for reasonable prices.
Barrett -- I have never seen a Barrett shoe in person, but their website certainly shows a number of beautiful models. Although the website doesn't specify the construction methods used, it's likely that most of them are Blake or Blake/Rapid constructed, with a few Norwegian models.
Bontoni -- This company has made a recent splash on the US market, getting themselves carried by Louis Boston and Stanley Korshak. The shoes are very much of a piece with a lot of high-end Italian shoes nowadays: a bit clunky, with eye-popping antiquing. If you like that sort of thing, these shoes appear to be well-made versions of the aesthetic. The problem is that they're grossly overpriced. They're Blake/Rapid-constructed, and the channel for the Rapid sole stitching isn't closed. Frankly, the quality of construction is inferior to Gravati or Martegani, in my opinion; and yet the retail price for the calfskin models is nearly $1000 per pair.
Bonora -- Florentine bespoke maker that has branched into RTW. I don't know if these are factory-made shoes of if they are made in Bonora's workshop. Given the prices, I suspect that the former is more likely than the latter. The shoes themselves appear to be mostly Goodyear-welted and staid in their styling.
De Tommaso -- A specialist in handmade Goodyear, Norwegian, and Treccia shoes.
Zegna -- A few years ago, Zegna began a joint venture with Ferragamo called Zefer (oh, the originality!) to produce Zegna-labeled shoes. I suspect, although I do not know for sure, that Zegna actually owns the production facilities for these shoes. In any event, they run the gamut from the very ordinary to the very nice. Most of the lower-priced versions are either cemented or Blake-constructed. The top-of-the-line shoes, however, are Goodyear-welted and very attractive. As with a lot of Zegna's products, they are probably overpriced for what they are, but what they are appears to be excellent quality shoes.
Constantly Improving my Style
One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art. ~Oscar Wilde
Italy
A. Testoni -- Three different levels of quality. Regular-line shoes (now called Studium, I believe) are okay, if a little bit fashion-forward. The Black Label shoes are better. They're all Bologna-constructed, and every so often I see a model that I actually could wear. Most of them are a bit too fashion-forward for my tastes, and the prices (over $700 per pair) are high. The third line is called Amedeo Testoni and consists of Goodyear-welted and Norwegian constructed shoes. These are excellently-made but mostly unattractive to my eyes. They're also extremely expensive for what you're getting.
Bruno Magli -- Magli has a number of different lines. The only line worth talking about is the Platinum line. They appear to be well made (I think that they're Blake-constructed), but the designs are a bit over-the-top for me. They're also very expensive for the quality. I don't believe that Magli actually owns any production facilities but rather contracts all production out to third parties.
Silvano Lattanzi -- Handmade shoes of impeccable quality. Lattanzi was originally brought to the United States by Louis Boston and is a pioneer here of handmade shoes and very high prices. He's best known for gunboat-sized Norwegian- or Bentivegna-constructed shoes with flashy antiquing, but he can do more subdued styles as well.
Kiton -- Kiton's shoes have a eye-popping antiquing similar to what one sees on Lattanzi shoes, but the last shapes tend to be sleeker and the designs, while unusual, are generally more conservative.
Sutor Mantellassi -- I will admit that I have a soft spot in my heart for Sutor Mantellassi shoes. I love the way that they do Norwegian construction (with a single row of stitching rather than the flashier two braided rows favored by other makers) and their innovative use of skin stitching. Like most Italian producers, Mantellassi has more than one line: a Blake-constructed line of good but not outstanding quality and a Norwegian or Goodyear-constructed line that is of excellent quality.
Gravati -- One of my favorite Italian manufacturers, not because there aren't better producers out there (there are) but because Gravati makes an excellent shoe for a reasonable price and because they are almost infinitely flexible in what they can and will produce. Over the years, I have placed many, many special orders for Gravati shoes, and they are always right and of remarkably consistent quality. Their shoes are mostly Blake- and Blake/Rapid-constructed, but they will make Goodyear-welted shoes on request.
Borgioli -- Borgioli is a major producer of private-label shoes, some of which are made to execrable standards of quality and which Borgioli would never want to claim. Hey, they need to survive. The shoes produced under their own label are very good. Most are Blake-constructed. A few are Norwegian-constructed, and they are excellent.
Romano Martegani -- Martegani operates a very good Blake and Blake/Rapid factory, and they are endlessly flexible. Gravati will almost never say no to a customer's cockamamie ideas for a shoe, but they will say no sometimes. Martegani won't. These are good, not excellent, shoes offered for a reasonable price. User Ron Rider, formerly the shoe manager at Franco's in Richmond, is now the US distributer for Martegani.
Salvatore Ferragamo -- Like Bruno Magli, Ferragamo doesn't own any of their own production facilities. Also like Bruno Magli, they market shoes of widely varying qualities. The Studio line shoes are cemented and not worth the money they cost. The Lavarazione Originale line shoes are generally Blake-constructed and are often attractive and well-made, if overpriced. The Tramezza line shoes are Goodyear-welted and are very good. Ferragamo has a joint venture with Zegna called Zefer, and Zefer produces all of the Zegna-labelled shoes. I believe, although I am not certain, that Zegna owns the production facilities for these shoes, some of which are very good.
StefanoBi -- I don't know a whole lot about StefanoBi shoes, but I believe that this was Stefano Branchini's original company and that he sold it to LVMH in the 1990s. The StefanoBi factory apparently produces shoes for all of the LVMH companies, including Berluti. The only pair of StefanoBi shoes that I ever saw (square-toe tan wingtip balmorals) were attractive in a flashy, Italian sort of way.
Stefano Branchini -- If I recall correctly, I believe that Sr. Branchini started this company after he sold StefanoBi to LVMH. I have never seen any of these shoes in the flesh, and I really can't comment on the quality of construction. What I can say is that these shoes, to me, represent everything that is wrong with Italian shoemaking today. They're ugly and over-the-top. It's like Sr. Branchini took all that is excessive about Lattanzi shoes and used it as a toned-down model for what he wanted to do.
Artioli -- I believe, although I am not sure, that Artioni shoes are mostly Bologna-constructed. They look to be well-made and are undoubtedly very flexible. I have two primary complaints with Artioli shoes. First is the leather that they tend to use: it's that glove-leather-looking stuff that Italian shoes were known for in the 1980s. Sure, it's soft, but it doesn't wear very well. Secondly, they have succumbed to the witch's shoes trend: their shoes nowadays tend to have elongated, needle-nose snouts that I think are extremely ugly.
Santoni -- Santoni produces many, many different lines of shoes. The Nuvola shoes have natural rubber soles and are decently-constructed and comfortable Blake shoes. The Classic line consists of some Bologna, some Blake, and some Goodyear shoes. The new Bologna models, in particular, are made on a very attractive round-toe last and are extremely flexible. The Fatte a Mano line consists of some Blake and some Goodyear, Norwegian, or Bentivegna shoes. Many of the Fatte a Mano models are, well, ugly, with overly-elongated, pointy, witch's-shoes-looking snouts; but when they're right, they're very, very right. Regardless, while you can complain about the looks of the non-Blake Fatte a Manos, you can't complain about the construction. It's excellent.
Moreschi -- Moreschi is yet another good maker of mid-range Blake-constructed shoes. Much of what they sell is, ah, exuberant. Combinations of blue peccary with blue ostrich leg are to be found. You don't have to buy those. The normal shoes are well-made and reasonably priced. Probably a small step below Gravati in quality of construction, and much below Gravati in flexibility of offerings and receptivity to special orders.
Fratelli Peluso -- I have seen a number of different types of Peluso shoes. The first is a line of Goodyear-welted shoes that look to be well-constructed and fairly-priced. From the website, it appears that these shoes have a gemmed linen feather and are machine-welted just as most English welted shoes. Given the price (under $500 per pair), this is to be expected. Peluso also makes a line of Blake-constructed shoes and yet another line of Blake-constructed shoes sold under the "Peluso for To Boot Adam Derrick" label. Both appear to be relatively well-constructed shoes offered for reasonable prices.
Barrett -- I have never seen a Barrett shoe in person, but their website certainly shows a number of beautiful models. Although the website doesn't specify the construction methods used, it's likely that most of them are Blake or Blake/Rapid constructed, with a few Norwegian models.
Bontoni -- This company has made a recent splash on the US market, getting themselves carried by Louis Boston and Stanley Korshak. The shoes are very much of a piece with a lot of high-end Italian shoes nowadays: a bit clunky, with eye-popping antiquing. If you like that sort of thing, these shoes appear to be well-made versions of the aesthetic. The problem is that they're grossly overpriced. They're Blake/Rapid-constructed, and the channel for the Rapid sole stitching isn't closed. Frankly, the quality of construction is inferior to Gravati or Martegani, in my opinion; and yet the retail price for the calfskin models is nearly $1000 per pair.
Bonora -- Florentine bespoke maker that has branched into RTW. I don't know if these are factory-made shoes of if they are made in Bonora's workshop. Given the prices, I suspect that the former is more likely than the latter. The shoes themselves appear to be mostly Goodyear-welted and staid in their styling.
De Tommaso -- A specialist in handmade Goodyear, Norwegian, and Treccia shoes.
Zegna -- A few years ago, Zegna began a joint venture with Ferragamo called Zefer (oh, the originality!) to produce Zegna-labeled shoes. I suspect, although I do not know for sure, that Zegna actually owns the production facilities for these shoes. In any event, they run the gamut from the very ordinary to the very nice. Most of the lower-priced versions are either cemented or Blake-constructed. The top-of-the-line shoes, however, are Goodyear-welted and very attractive. As with a lot of Zegna's products, they are probably overpriced for what they are, but what they are appears to be excellent quality shoes.
Constantly Improving my Style
One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art. ~Oscar Wilde
Try the Ferragamo Tramezza line. I own 4 pairs, which I bought at an outlet store for $359, $349, $159, and $159 (the two less expensive pairs were floor display models in perfect condition). They typically sell on ebay for something near $340, so they can be found for much less than the retail price of $600-700. The are very well made, use excellent leather, and are stylish without being over-the-top. In fact, one of my $159 pairs is a very conventional-looking brown punched captoe model.
The Tramezza shoes have a fabric label sewn to the insole with the company name, "Salvatore Ferragamo", and the company name on a gold plate attached to the sole at the waist. "Tramezza" is embossed on the sole just forward of the gold plate. Don't discount the Tramezza shoes just because Ferragamo's other lines of shoes may be dreck.
Best regards,
thinman
Three words for what's needed to nail this topic down: Jcusey, Ron Rider.
In their absence, let me take a stab at trying to synthesize what I've learned from these two guys plus other knowledgeable forumers (Bengal-stripe, Medwards, et al.), along with a little personal experience (note: RTW only here); ranking: 1=highest quality...:
1. Lattanzi (just one grade)
2. Kiton (just one grade)
3. Santoni (tan sock Fatte e mano)
4. Sutor Mantellassi (top line only)
(Some would argue that these two should be seen as equal or even reversed.)
5. & 6. Branchini and Artioli in no particular order (Jcusey, I know this will raise your blood pressure vis-a-vis Branchini)
7, 8, & 9. Gravati, Martegani, StefanoBi - no order
(Ron, I know you'll cringe when you see RM at this position, and, hey, I'm probably wrong! BTW, I do love my RM shoes! And we're not talking value for money here; on that score RM are near the top.)
10. & 11. Moreschi and Borgioli. Oh, jeez, forgot a. Testoni. The Amadeus Testoni shoes (the best Testoni) are probably at about position 4.5 above.
Note: All the makers noted above produce "good" or better shoes. I've seen some really nice Moreschi shoes locally, and I know that Borgioli shoes are very good too (the "Certo" brand seen on Lance Hughes's Virtual Clothes Horse website are, I believe, made by Borgioli).
The rest fall below these, although the Ferragamo Tramezza line (only) are very good shoes and should perhaps be seen as equivalent to the 7/8/9 level above. This listing is ignoring shoes branded by Brioni, Zegna, Canali, and others where the actual maker is unknown. I have a pair of really beautiful Brioni shoes, but was unsuccessful in divining their provenance. I've seen some really lovely Zegna and Canali shoes too, but also some real dogs by those brands. My Bruno Maglis were a disappointment. Gucci and Prada shoes I've seen locally, although stylish in a sort of dissolute way, have been poorly constructed (Blake stitched or glued-on soles).
So that's my take on it. Note that I haven't addressed the value for money question--just absolute quality. Have at it, guys!
Vancouver
In their absence, let me take a stab at trying to synthesize what I've learned from these two guys plus other knowledgeable forumers (Bengal-stripe, Medwards, et al.), along with a little personal experience (note: RTW only here); ranking: 1=highest quality...:
1. Lattanzi (just one grade)
2. Kiton (just one grade)
3. Santoni (tan sock Fatte e mano)
4. Sutor Mantellassi (top line only)
(Some would argue that these two should be seen as equal or even reversed.)
5. & 6. Branchini and Artioli in no particular order (Jcusey, I know this will raise your blood pressure vis-a-vis Branchini)
7, 8, & 9. Gravati, Martegani, StefanoBi - no order
(Ron, I know you'll cringe when you see RM at this position, and, hey, I'm probably wrong! BTW, I do love my RM shoes! And we're not talking value for money here; on that score RM are near the top.)
10. & 11. Moreschi and Borgioli. Oh, jeez, forgot a. Testoni. The Amadeus Testoni shoes (the best Testoni) are probably at about position 4.5 above.
Note: All the makers noted above produce "good" or better shoes. I've seen some really nice Moreschi shoes locally, and I know that Borgioli shoes are very good too (the "Certo" brand seen on Lance Hughes's Virtual Clothes Horse website are, I believe, made by Borgioli).
The rest fall below these, although the Ferragamo Tramezza line (only) are very good shoes and should perhaps be seen as equivalent to the 7/8/9 level above. This listing is ignoring shoes branded by Brioni, Zegna, Canali, and others where the actual maker is unknown. I have a pair of really beautiful Brioni shoes, but was unsuccessful in divining their provenance. I've seen some really lovely Zegna and Canali shoes too, but also some real dogs by those brands. My Bruno Maglis were a disappointment. Gucci and Prada shoes I've seen locally, although stylish in a sort of dissolute way, have been poorly constructed (Blake stitched or glued-on soles).
So that's my take on it. Note that I haven't addressed the value for money question--just absolute quality. Have at it, guys!
Vancouver
GT3, I get my Tramezzas from their outlet store in Cabazon, CA, near Palm Springs. I wouldn't visit them right now, though. I was there last Friday and they had less than 1/2 dozen pairs of Tramezzas. I discovered quite by accident that the best time to visit is probably February or March when the new year's models have been introduced and the previous year's models are just hitting the outlet store. It may be worthwhile visiting them in several months, though, as a saleswoman told me they receive shipments periodically.
Roger, Ron Rider wrote a very favorable comparison of the Ferragamo Tramezza line and Edward Green shoes on StyleForum, but it was unfortunately lost in the Great Crash of '06. I hope he will weigh in here.
Best regards,
thinman
Roger, Ron Rider wrote a very favorable comparison of the Ferragamo Tramezza line and Edward Green shoes on StyleForum, but it was unfortunately lost in the Great Crash of '06. I hope he will weigh in here.
Best regards,
thinman
I agree. Those I've seen have been lovely shoes--very nice substantial leather and first-class welted construction. Perhaps their rightful ranking is more around the 5 mark above. We have a Ferragamo store in Vancouver (the only one in Canada, I think), and they carried the Tramezzas (at over $1000 Cdn.--so about $880-$900 US at today's exchange rates) up until about a year or so ago. They dropped them in the Vancouver store, because they couldn't sell them, and now all they stock is the lesser Ferragamo lines. For those interested, you do see Tramezzas on eBay from time to time, and the usual eBay price seems to be around $325-$340. At that price, they're a great buy.
Vancouver
Morris, I own one pair of Gucci horsebit loafers and I think the Tramezzas are much better made, use much, much higher quality leather, and are a better buy as well.
Roger, I have limited first-hand experience with Italian shoes, so I can't give an informed rating scheme. I would, however, rate Tramezzas on a par with the Sutor Mantellassi shoes I've seen, although I may not have seen their top of the line. I'd also rate Tramezzas above the Gravati and Moreschi shoes I've seen in terms of construction and I like the Tramezza styling better as well, except for loafers. I won't compare leather quality, since I believe the three companies select their leathers with different purposes in mind. I own one pair of Testoni monkstraps and the leather is thinner and more prone to creasing than the leather used in my Ferragamos, though my Testonis may not be their top line. I have no experience with Branchini or Artioli shoes. Compared with some quality English shoes I own, I rate Tramezzas slightly better than my C&J Handgrades and Grenson Masterpiece shoes, but below my one pair of John Lobb Paris RTW shoes.
I will also say that I like Italian shoes because I can find them on sale for affordable prices more easily than English shoes and the styling frequently appeals to me as well.
Best regards,
thinman
Edit: Roger, I didn't see your post immediately above mine, as I was composing my post. I agree that I would rank Tramezzas around 4-5, with the caveats mentioned above. And at the ebay/outlet store prices, I think they're a great buy. I'd better add a disclaimer, since I'm sounding like a Ferragamo salesman: I have no connection whatsoever with Ferragamo, etc., etc.
Roger, I have limited first-hand experience with Italian shoes, so I can't give an informed rating scheme. I would, however, rate Tramezzas on a par with the Sutor Mantellassi shoes I've seen, although I may not have seen their top of the line. I'd also rate Tramezzas above the Gravati and Moreschi shoes I've seen in terms of construction and I like the Tramezza styling better as well, except for loafers. I won't compare leather quality, since I believe the three companies select their leathers with different purposes in mind. I own one pair of Testoni monkstraps and the leather is thinner and more prone to creasing than the leather used in my Ferragamos, though my Testonis may not be their top line. I have no experience with Branchini or Artioli shoes. Compared with some quality English shoes I own, I rate Tramezzas slightly better than my C&J Handgrades and Grenson Masterpiece shoes, but below my one pair of John Lobb Paris RTW shoes.
I will also say that I like Italian shoes because I can find them on sale for affordable prices more easily than English shoes and the styling frequently appeals to me as well.
Best regards,
thinman
Edit: Roger, I didn't see your post immediately above mine, as I was composing my post. I agree that I would rank Tramezzas around 4-5, with the caveats mentioned above. And at the ebay/outlet store prices, I think they're a great buy. I'd better add a disclaimer, since I'm sounding like a Ferragamo salesman: I have no connection whatsoever with Ferragamo, etc., etc.
Joined
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541 Posts
Oh, no ...make no mistake ... I offered Gucci in jest. I too own a pair and find them of average quality, at best. At one time they might have been stylish, but they are so common that I find them trite and boring.
I have a pair of SF pebble grain monk straps that I bought about 10 years ago. They are of good quality, not great, but I wear them rather infrequently. Not necessarily a comment on the shoe. Rather my style has evolved over the years.
-- Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance.
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167 Posts
Has anyone ever heard of Franco of Bergamo?
Dont Eat The Mints....
Dont Eat The Mints....
Joined
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167 Posts
Has anyone ever heard of Franco of Bergamo?
Dont Eat The Mints....
Dont Eat The Mints....
I have a difficult time ranking and appreciate jcusey's list. That said, Roger's opinion is very close to my own. I own many of the shoemakers on his list and wholeheartedly agree. I believe Bontoni to be in the list and Tramezza line from Ferragamo. Zegna shoes are of the Tramezza variety by Ferragamo in a joint venture. The rest of Ferragamo's lines are as Thinman suggests, dreck. I think Mantelassi's are my favorites.
"...always aspire to live simply and elegantly." - Madeleine Finn
"...always aspire to live simply and elegantly." - Madeleine Finn
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