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Edward Green Bespoke--Advice and Suggestions

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hmhill

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am about to embarked on a new adventure in buying a pair of bespoke shoes from Edward Green when Tony Gaziano comes to Dallas this Monday. I was wondering if the more experience shoe experts have any insights into what I should expect. What color would be best? I'm leaning toward a balmoral style. Since I'm a retired Librarian-not much money but no responsiblities-no wife, kids, alimony, etc:). Of course, if I become addicted I could sell my comic book collection which is worth about $60,000:)

Max
 
#2 ·
Color is a totally personal choice. What do you want to use the shoes for? I would gravitate toward brown over black for a number of reasons, but the black calf Tony uses is superior to even the best RTW-grade calf, so you can't go wrong there.

Why not try an unusal leather like pigskin or kudu? Those are not really bal skins, however. Also, know well that Tony tends to make a loooong shoe, so choose your design accordingly.

As always, there are two schools of thought on what to do for one's first bespoke anything. The first says that since for a while it will be your only one, choose something classic, timeless and versatile, that way you can get a lot of use out of it. The second says, Why get something standard when going bespoke? Get something that is unavailable anywhere else. The danger, of course, is that in being less versatile, it will get less use.
 
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#3 ·
My first three pair of bespoke shoes were black calf. For the fourth pair I was bolder and expanded to brown.

I suggest you think about the type of shoe you wear the most and order that. Ostrich spectators that languish in your closet won't give you the same pleasure as shoes you wear every week.


------------------------
Fortuna elegantes adiuvit.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
quote:Originally posted by manton

Color is a totally personal choice. What do you want to use the shoes for? I would gravitate toward brown over black for a number of reasons, but the black calf Tony uses is superior to even the best RTW-grade calf, so you can't go wrong there.

Why not try an unusal leather like pigskin or kudu? Those are not really bal skins, however. Also, know well that Tony tends to make a loooong shoe, so choose your design accordingly.

As always, there are two schools of thought on what to do for one's first bespoke anything. The first says that since for a while it will be your only one, choose something classic, timeless and versatile, that way you can get a lot of use out of it. The second says, Why get something standard when going bespoke? Get something that is unavailable anywhere else. The danger, of course, is that in being less versatile, it will get less use.
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Manton, I'm leaning more toward the first school of thought. Also, I was thinking about a brown. Also, I usually wear a 11 1/2 A or AA in RTW shoes plus I have flat feet--I was rejected by the US Army when I tried to join:(

Max
 
#5 ·
My own choice, were it mine, would actually be a hybrid of manton's aforementioned schools of thought. I'd select a fairly conventional style (though I might tweak it a bit), but I'd choose a color that's different (but would still get plenty of wear). For instance, I might go for cap toes in Green's birch, an extremely light tan. I love tans, so this would work for me. Then there's dark olive, navy, or charcoal. Then again, instead of picking a different color, I might pick a different skin.

Whatever you do, think carefully. Once your decision is made, have fun!
 
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#6 ·
hmhill: I have a feeling that Tony's house last will work particularly well with narrow feet. I think my own gunboats tend to look better in their Cleverleys. That's not to take anything away from the quality of Tony's shoes.
 
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#7 ·
Dear Sir,
Tony is a refined maker. Show him and the craft respect by deepening, that the inside line at the big toe must not pinch the angle between the joint an the peak of your big toe. If it does, you will never get a shoe that gives you comfort and justification of your investment. This is crucial when it comes to Bespoke work. Whatever color or style, this is what you really must be aware of when meeting a bespoke craftsman!

Bespoke Shoe and Bootmaker
J.P. Myhre, Oslo, Norway
e-mail; bespoke.shoes@mac.com website; www.bespoke-shoes.com
 
#10 ·
quote:Originally posted by medwards

Just to give you some ideas to ponder:
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another site that has a large number of pictures of bespoke shoes, including some from Edward Green.

As others have suggested, you should order what you would wear. I would never order black shoes for myself, for example, because I would not wear black shoes. Spending over £1500 on a pair of shoes is certainly profligate if you don't actually wear the shoes. Get what you will wear, not what you think you ought to get.

It's not necessary for you to know all the details that you want before you meet with Tony, but you should have a good idea of the sort of shoe that you're interested in and the sort of toe shape you want. Tony is a chisel-toe specialist, it is true, but he can do beautiful round toes, too, if that's what you want. It would be a good idea to write down the details of what you're interested before you meet with him so that you don't forget to bring anything up.

The actual ordering process is not at all stressful. You will go up to meet Tony in his hotel suite. He will have his samples set out, along with his leather swatches. You'll stand on a pad of paper so that he can take tracings and measurements of your feet. He will also feel around on them to determine if they're fleshy or bony, whether you have prominent joints, and so on. After that, you'll discuss styling options with him, and he'll take notes. Other than handing over your credit card for the deposit, that's it. It's supposed to be a relaxing and enjoyable experience, and I hope that you will find it to be so.

I'll be in town on Monday for my fitting. I can't wait to see the shoes.
 
#11 ·
I guess someone should speak up for black calf shoes (though I have absolutely no quarrel with shoes of other colours or leathers and will quite gladly admit and rejoice in the fact that quite a few of these "shoes of a different colour" have found their way into my wardrobe). However, it so happens that the first pair of bespoke shoes I ever had made were a pair of black calf semibrogue oxfords and they stood me in good stead for over twenty years. I don't believe it would have been possible to have crafted a pair of shoes of which I would have gotten more use or which would have been a better investment. Over the years I have added a good deal of bespoke footwear to my closet. But if I could keep just a single pair, it undoubtedly would be a rather elegant pair of black stitched toe oxfords that George Glasgow and John Carnera made for me in their New & Lingwood days. These black shoes have been to work and the opera, weddings and funerals, graduations and galleries, the White House and the Vatican. They are classic, versatile, and exceptionally functional. And if you really must have something fashionable, you can just be Wicked and think of black as this year's pink. ;)
 
#12 ·
Thanks from me too: I'm meeting with Tony early tomorrow morning in San Francisco for my first pair of bespoke, and this is all very helpful. I'm thinking of a very modern, sleek horsebit loafer. I'm not sure about the color or texture of the leather yet.

--Andre
 
#13 ·
If I could afford to go bespoke, I'd be mighty tempted to go all the way and get a two eyelet derby or a Yardley style monk in alligator or crocodile or a even a less flashy exotic skin, like reindeer or pigskin. I rarely have to dress conservatively, but when I do, I can stand to have shoes that don't draw attention to themselves and hence don't need to cost three grand.
 
#14 ·
quote:Originally posted by Andre Yew

Thanks from me too: I'm meeting with Tony early tomorrow morning in San Francisco for my first pair of bespoke, and this is all very helpful. I'm thinking of a very modern, sleek horsebit loafer. I'm not sure about the color or texture of the leather yet.

--Andre
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This brings up another question I have been thinking about. JCusey has a RTW shoe pyramid, but what about the bespoke? Would one of the more educated members of the board be willing to lay out a beginners guide for those of us that are considering? I am not asking which is "better" than the next, but rather who are the artisans, where are they located, who travels, what are the costs of a basic calf leather shoe, and what are the distinguishing characteristics. (Ex. Ed Greens are longer)

Oh, and Andre, how did you know Tony was coming to town?

Cheers,
Brian
 
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#17 ·
crescent court? is the event being held at stanley korshak, one of the last truly great mens stores (and great source of Lobb shoes on sale, once a year)??

I vote for the "Comic Books for Style" program, cashing in a few for a really great suit and a pair of really nice brown shoes from Ed Green.
 
#18 ·
quote:Originally posted by The_Foxx

crescent court? is the event being held at stanley korshak, one of the last truly great mens stores (and great source of Lobb shoes on sale, once a year)??
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The Hotel Crescent Court is close by Stanley Korshak, but Tony will be conducting business in his suite at the hotel, not at Korshak.
 
#19 ·
Something tells me JCusey is gassin' up the car. [}:)]

https://www.CustomShirt1.com

Kabbaz-Kelly & Sons Fine Custom Clothiers
* Bespoke Shirts & Furnishings * Zimmerli Swiss Underwear **
* Alex Begg Cashmere * Pantherella Socks *​
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
I would like to thank everyone for the advice. My appointment is at 3pm on the 20th. I'm taking the train from Ft. Worth to Dallas--to advoid the Dallas traffic, so I probably will arrive early.

So far I decided on a round-toe bal. I kinda liked the following that medwards posted from his link: 5, 11, 36, 52.

Thanks again,

Max
 
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