Giorgio Armani vs. Zegna vs. Proper Cloth and Others in the $2k suit range

kosmo886 said:

I am looking for a nice quality suit in the up to $2k range. I've found a few sales that bring Zegna and Armani suits to around $2k. There are also options from places like Proper Cloth where you can get a fully canvassed, Loro Piana fabric suit for around $1500. Then the lowest end would be Emporio Armani G-Line. I've included links below to some examples below. It's proving difficult to understand the real differences (fabric quality, construction etc.) in these suits and also which is good value for money.

What are thoughts on these options vs. others in a similar price range?

Loro Piana Fabric Slate S150s Mercer Suit

An exquisitely crafted fully-canvassed suit. This stunning twill suit is made from Loro Pianaâs unbelievably fine S150s Australian âAust… Shown in Slate

propercloth.com

https://www.neimanmarcus.com/p/zegna-mens-two-piece-wool-suit-prod254250338?childItemId=NMN9U4T_&msid=4384568&position=2

https://www.neimanmarcus.com/p/giorgio-armani-mens-micro-pattern-wool-suit-prod270930005?childItemId=NMW5089_&msid=4714245&position=0

https://www.nordstrom.com/s/g-line-virgin-wool-suit/7674099?origin=category-personalizedsort&breadcrumb=Home%2FBrands%2FEmporio%20Armani&color=424

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kosmo886 said:

How do I know which Armani line I am getting? Are there different lines of Zegna suits? Thanks!

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Dhaller said:

I kind of dismissed Armani long ago, so I can't comment on current line.

I think the mainline Zegna is now just called ZEGNA, but (last I checked) suits are more in the $4000+ range. Zegna has some casual lines, like Zegna Essentials, but you'd be looking at their tailored clothes. They've experimented with cheap diffusion lines in the past (like Z Zegna); you don't want that, as it's fused garbage.

(And if I found myself about to buy a Zegna suit, I'd probably head to Ralph Lauren and buy a Purple Label suit instead. Indeed, I am currently waiting on a Purple Label dinner jacket from RL.)

The fact is, once you're looking at the "brand name" Italian suits, you're overpaying... considerably.

For Italian suits, I'd look for Caruso, Rubinacci, Genarro Solito, Dalcuore, Panico, Ciardi... the Neapolitan "high street" suit makers (Naples is ground zero for Italian men's clothing). Not always available without a visit to Naples (these are small tailoring shops), but it's worth poking around online. But this is how you get good suits for $2k.

But for a suit you can get through a proper menswear store in the USA (ie. they have swatches and can measure you), my easy recommendation is Samuelsohn. Best bet is to strike when they have a trunk show.

DH

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kosmo886 said:

I linked to a Zegna suit above that is much less than 4k. I think this is mainline...correct?

https://www.neimanmarcus.com/p/zegna-mens-two-piece-wool-suit-prod254250338?childItemId=NMN9U4T_&msid=4384568&position=2

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benno said:

Mostly echoing what others are saying, for 2k, depending on where you live and what you are looking for, you have a lot of options and likely the "best" are going to be outside of what you mentioned. As above, with Zegna and Armani you are paying for the brand name. I love proper cloth for shirts, but I would stay away from their suiting in regards to construction and design ect. At that price point, you are basically paying for the expensive but high quality Loro Piana fabric.

Now maybe you are looking for expensive brand names, in which case, I leave it up to you as to what you value more. That said, the classic recommendation (and my opinion) would be to focus on high quality construction and fit, rather than a brand or a top quality fabric. At 2K you should be able to get a very good quality custom suit with a mid-level fabric, that should fit you better and likely last you longer than the above. There are MTM companies that fit perfectly in that budget in most major cities, and if you were willing to share your general area, as well as traveling tailors in that budget such as Dvij, and I'm sure if you gave the group a general area, people would love to help.

That said, if you have a time crunch on this purchase, or just would prefer not to wait for MTM, you still likely could find something better in regards to construction and fit by going to a good quality place and trying things on, and getting alterations after choosing a cut/size that fits you best. Thinking like a Suit Supply sort of brand.

Good luck, and let us know what you decide on.

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kosmo886 said:

Thanks for the reply. This is all helpful. I am in the Boston area. I have tried MTM / custom options in the past from a mix of places, including a local spot. I've found those processes to be brutally long and tedious. I don't know if I am just that hard to fit or what, but it's always taken a lot of alterations along the way. Perhaps I just haven't found the right spot though. This is why I was considering an off the rack option and just getting that altered.

Any thoughts on spots to consider around Boston?

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Theoden said:

Hard to tell about the fabrics in these suits or the construction. Re: construction, you want half or full canvas construction.

If you are doing custom, go for full canvas. Proper cloth's factories are in Thailand for custom. You are being measured remotely.

If you can get yourself to NYC, I recommend LS Men's Clothing. Izzy is a legend. He can do full-canvas suits at 900-1200 and made in US or Canadian factories.

Best of luck

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kosmo886 said:

I am in NYC soon and may try LS. Are there any other good NYC options?

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kosmo886 said:

I am in NYC soon and may try LS. Are there any other good NYC options?

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Best places to get custom suits in NYC from top tailors and stores

Looking for places to get custom suits in NYC? These stores and shops are the best, offering custom garments from the city's best tailors.

www.timeout.com

Theoden said:

There are many good options.

Made-to-Measure: They measure, sends specs to factory (in US or Canada) and they make the garment based on a pattern they have in factory. You come it to try in on, he makes adjustments with his onsite tailor.

Bespoke. They measure, they make a pattern just for you, you come back and you try on the basting, cloth sewn together in a pattern for you, then they make the final suit in house, by hand. This is the most expensive.

I can only personally speak for LS Men's Clothing. He does Made to Measure.

Of the shops here, I'm familiar with Enzo, Mohan's, Martin Greenfield Clothiers. All Made to Measure (I think Martin Greenfield does bespoke too).

Aim for half or full-canvas construction, avoid places that use factories outside of the US or Canada to make their clothes. (This is for MTM)

If it's bespoke, it will be made on-site.

Best places to get custom suits in NYC from top tailors and stores

Looking for places to get custom suits in NYC? These stores and shops are the best, offering custom garments from the city's best tailors.

www.timeout.com

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kosmo886 said:

Hi - I am going to take your advice and see Izzy next week while I am in NYC. Is there any additional background you're able to provide? How many visits does it usually take to complete the suit fit? What's the construction like compared to the Armani and Zegna options I showed above? Prices? They seem quite low based on what you said before...is this just great value, or is there something else that is inferior/could be upgraded elsewhere? Anything else I should know in advance? Thank you!

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1. First meeting: He'll take one set of measurements. Once you decide on the kind of suit you want, the factory he's going to use, the cloth and the details you want, he'll send it out the them.
2. 3-4 weeks later, the suit comes in.
3. Second meeting: you try on the suit and his in house tailor will make adjustments. You may walk out that day with your new suit. Or you may need to wait a couple of days if his in-house tailor is backlogged.

• The factory he uses. His main three are: Coppley (they only do half-canvas), H. Freeman and Son (full canvas) and Rochester Tailoring (full canvas).
• The elements you want in the suit. Working buttonholes on the sleeve, special lining, pick stitching on the lapel, type of fabric (some mills are more expensive than other).

Theoden said:

I sent you a Private Message. Say hi to Izzie for me.

OK. First. Call and make sure he's in the office and see if he's open when you drop in.

1. First meeting: He'll take one set of measurements. Once you decide on the kind of suit you want, the factory he's going to use, the cloth and the details you want, he'll send it out the them.
2. 3-4 weeks later, the suit comes in.
3. Second meeting: you try on the suit and his in house tailor will make adjustments. You may walk out that day with your new suit. Or you may need to wait a couple of days if his in-house tailor is backlogged.

Suits cost anywhere from 900-1200.

The difference in cost is due to:

• The factory he uses. His main three are: Coppley (they only do half-canvas), H. Freeman and Son (full canvas) and Rochester Tailoring (full canvas).
• The elements you want in the suit. Working buttonholes on the sleeve, special lining, pick stitching on the lapel, type of fabric (some mills are more expensive than other).

You should have a sense of what you want. Cuffs or no cuffs on the pants, what kind of break (full, half, quarter or no break), how much of your dress shirt you want to show out of your suit sleeves, Do you want the jacket to sit low or high? Most tailors will push the envelope on jackets sitting a bit too low when covering your rear. Modern style has it shorter, almost comically short.

Most tailors, including Izzy will try and steer you one way or another. Izzy doesn't like belts and will try and convince you to go with braces. He tend to like half break on the trousers. He goes with 1/8 inch of shirt cloth to show your suit sleeve.

I wanted no break on the trousers and about 1/4-1/2 inch of sleeve showing.

My sense is that the handwork and quality of construction you will get from Izzy is excellent. It will fit you better than a RTW suit tailored by the average dry cleaner or even a decent tailor. Also keep in mind alterations are not cheap (cuffs, sleeves, taking in the sides, altering the waist, etc.) Rochester Tailoring and H. Freeman and son will do some of the best work. With Armani and Zegna you are starting from a stratospheric retail price which is mostly for the brand.

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