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The Quest for the Perfect Navy Blazer

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#21 ·
Doctor Damage said:
The online men's clothing forums have done a good job of promoting the notion that a dark jacket with horn buttons is somehow a blazer and somehow not a compromise for cowardly dressers! If it doesn't have gold or silver metal buttons then it's just a suit jacket with missing pants.
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While it may not be a proper blazer without metal buttons, if it's in a traditional blazer material like hopsack or doeskin it isn't going to look like an orphaned suit jacket either.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Matt S said:
While it may not be a proper blazer without metal buttons, if it's in a traditional blazer material like hopsack or doeskin it isn't going to look like an orphaned suit jacket either.
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Yes, you have ever so gently swayed me towards your position. I had long considered "doeskin" as it has a lovely nap in the wool fabric.

I am expecting fabric swatches from Carl any day now. When I get them I will most definitely post pics of the various samples. In the meantime, I hope to continue this stimulating discussion with regards to my menswear exploits insofar as I do not feel bound with the chains of sartorial legalism...give me liberty or give me death...

Cheers!
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
@Matt S how do you feel about doeskin unlined?

Because the Caruso jacket is actually a stunning herringbone which I was contemplating as well:

Image
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
CLTesquire said:
Wouldn't unlined doeskin catch quite a bit on your shirt? I would think there would be a lot of friction there that would annoy you over time. Just a thought.
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For the record, I am open to hopsack, herringbone, doeskin etc....

The best course of action is to wait until the swatches come in the mail...
 
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#26 ·
Watchman said:
For the record, I am open to hopsack, herringbone, doeskin etc....

The best course of action is to wait until the swatches come in the mail...
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Well yeah, but speculation is so much fun! I really like herringbone and keep telling myself that I'll one day get a navy herringbone tweed. I've also seen really interesting navy herringbone linen or linen blend options this season.
 
#27 ·
Doctor Damage said:
The online men's clothing forums have done a good job of promoting the notion that a dark jacket with horn buttons is somehow a blazer and somehow not a compromise for cowardly dressers! If it doesn't have gold or silver metal buttons then it's just a suit jacket with missing pants.
Click to expand...
This really isn't true. I don't remember the details of a blazer, cut, trimmings and all, but even the cut can clearly distinguish a blazer from a suit coat. Even a shawl collar can be on a blazer. There are many kinds of sports coats. Blazers can be pretty wild and unusual, too. There is nothing wrong with pushing it. I'm not one who believes herd mentality is a requirement. Life is about more. Since clothing is art, and blazers are type of this art, that not all avenues have been explored, there is certainly room for new ideas. We certainly don't want to stagnant on the past, or they are finished!
 
#28 ·
Watchman said:
...
I am also aware of the traditional standard regarding shiny brass buttons but unless the proportions of the jacket are executed brilliantly I find the shiny metal buttons to be gaudy and garish thus producing a repulsive reaction within my psyche.
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There are antique silver or darkish brass buttons that are metal but not shiny. There is also gunmetal color if you wish.

If not-shiny is your goal, the enamel buttons like that the you shown here are quite fancy but low profile:

Image


The horn or SMOP buttons, IMO, kind of signifies that they can work doubly as suit buttons, which may or may not work for your perfect Navy Blazer ideal.
 
#29 ·
Watchman said:
@Matt S how do you feel about doeskin unlined?

Because the Caruso jacket is actually a stunning herringbone which I was contemplating as well:

Image
Click to expand...
CLTesquire said:
Wouldn't unlined doeskin catch quite a bit on your shirt? I would think there would be a lot of friction there that would annoy you over time. Just a thought.
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Even though it's a woollen cloth, doeskin is quite smooth so it isn't going to catch much on a shirt. But by "unlined" I'm assuming a buggy/quarter lining is meant, so the shoulders and sleeves would still be lined. I would never condone unlined sleeves. Quarter/half-lined doeskin blazers were sold by Polo Ralph Lauren for years. I'm not sure if they still do.

As for herringbone, you need to be sure it's a herringbone that looks like it's for a sports coat, which rules out most worsted herringbones. The herringbone pictured above looks like it could be more of a suiting, but it's hard to tell the scale of the pattern and the texture from that photo. A herringbone sports coat should be something like tweed, silk or linen, or a blend of wool, silk and/or linen.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Matt S said:
Even though it's a woollen cloth, doeskin is quite smooth so it isn't going to catch much on a shirt. But by "unlined" I'm assuming a buggy/quarter lining is meant, so the shoulders and sleeves would still be lined. I would never condone unlined sleeves. Quarter/half-lined doeskin blazers were sold by Polo Ralph Lauren for years. I'm not sure if they still do.

As for herringbone, you need to be sure it's a herringbone that looks like it's for a sports coat, which rules out most worsted herringbones. The herringbone pictured above looks like it could be more of a suiting, but it's hard to tell the scale of the pattern and the texture from that photo. A herringbone sports coat should be something like tweed, silk or linen, or a blend of wool, silk and/or linen.
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Fair enough. You may further view the Caruso jacket here:

https://www.fransboonestore.com/products/caruso-aida-drop-8-herringbone-wool-jacket
 
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Discussion starter · #36 ·
JBierly said:
These are nice. I am not a fan of shiny brass buttons but I do think metal buttons or enamel are a better fit for a blazer.
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They are smoked MOP.

Do you know if any of BB's blazer are fully canvassed?

What about Golden Fleece?
 
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
JBierly said:
Well you piqued my curiosity and I looked at their website. They do have at least one golden fleece blazer that is fully canvassed. Some of the golden fleece sports jackets are 1/2 canvassed. A lot of the stuff has no designation which makes me think it may be fused.
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$700 for a fused jacket is highway robbery.....
 
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Watchman
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