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The Quest for the Perfect Navy Blazer

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Watchman

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Gentlemen,

Long time no post! But I am glad to be back! And I need your advice please.

Here is what I am thinking: navy double breasted blazer with mid/dark brown horn buttons. I am thinking of going with Carl from Menssuitsseparates online as they have a special going for AAAC members with H. Freeman. I am also aware of the usual suspects BB, JPress, O'Connels etc.

I am looking for some traditional with a bit of a twist.

My budget is about $400-700. Here is a link to the deal with Carl:

https://www.menssuitseparates.com/ask-andy-forum/

Cheers!
 
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#2 ·
I like a navy DB, but I don't find it as versatile when pairing with trousers. To my eye, a single looks fine with dress khakis, white ducks, red poplin and just about the full range of GTH pants, grey and olive trousers, and even jeans--if you do that sort of look. Personally, I would limit the DB to grey trousers, worsted or flannel.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
paxonus said:
I like a navy DB, but I don't find it as versatile when pairing with trousers. To my eye, a single looks fine with dress khakis, white ducks, red poplin and just about the full range of GTH pants, grey and olive trousers, and even jeans--if you do that sort of look. Personally, I would limit the DB to grey trousers, worsted or flannel.
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Thank you Sir. Yes, this is a more formal wardrobe piece for sure. I forgot to mention that I will also be having several pieces made and a standard notch lapel blazer is in order as well.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Yes, this model of mine shall have peak lapels, pick stitching, patch pockets etc
 
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#7 ·
My opinion is to be a bit cautious when blending elements that may lead to incongruity in the final look. So dark horn buttons (in lieu of brass/metal) and patch pockets (in lieu of besom) might not be my first choice with a DB Peak lapel navy blazer. Unless of course it is deconstructed with a very casual fabric - I actually have a blazer like that although it is more a blue color than a true navy. However, I don't consider it the perfect navy blazer - more of a summer fun item to wear with cream colored chinos or tropical wool slacks.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Here are my specs thus far: (Prospective and subject to change)

Wool Navy Sharkskin fabric
Double Breasted
Patch Pockets
Pick Stitching
Dark/Mid Brown Horn Buttons
Unlined (or Half Lined)
Burgundy Piping Inside
 
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#13 ·
Watchman said:
Here are my specs thus far: (Prospective and subject to change)

Wool Navy Sharkskin fabric
Double Breasted
Patch Pockets
Pick Stitching
Dark/Mid Brown Horn Buttons
Unlined (or Half Lined)
Burgundy Piping Inside
Click to expand...
If I may suggest, sharkskin is more of a suiting than a jacketing. You need something with texture like hopsack to set it apart as a blazer, otherwise it will look like an orphaned suit jacket. But there are practical reasons. Sharkskin is also woven in a tight twill, which isn't going to breathe as well and isn't going to benefit from being unlined. Sharkskin also looks too formal with patch pockets. You need a sporty material for the sporty style you're looking for.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Watchman said:
Look at this amazing jacket from Caruso:

Image


Image
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Not having a dog in this hunt, I am somewhat hesitant to offer this opinion, but I think I prefer the design you pictured in your post #10. I am just not a fan of the parallel darts running down the front of the jacket and into the patch pockets on the the jacket pictured above. It just seems unnecessarily distracting. Having shared this perspective, I understand you prefer patch pockets and in a 3R2 Sack designed jacket, I think them to be a rather desirable feature for a navy blazer. Good luck in your hunt, my friend. ;)
 
#16 ·
The online men's clothing forums have done a good job of promoting the notion that a dark jacket with horn buttons is somehow a blazer and somehow not a compromise for cowardly dressers! If it doesn't have gold or silver metal buttons then it's just a suit jacket with missing pants.
 
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#17 ·
Doctor Damage said:
The online men's clothing forums have done a good job of promoting the notion that a dark jacket with horn buttons is somehow a blazer and somehow not a compromise for cowardly dressers! If it doesn't have gold or silver metal buttons then it's just a suit jacket with missing pants.
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Well, I tend to concur - especially when one is looking for the "perfect" navy blazer.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Gentlemen,

Thank you for your kind suggestions. It is worth noting that I currently have a 3 button navy blazer with very subdued metal buttons. The buttons are a darker metallic bronze and not shiny.

I am also aware of the traditional standard regarding shiny brass buttons but unless the proportions of the jacket are executed brilliantly I find the shiny metal buttons to be gaudy and garish thus producing a repulsive reaction within my psyche.

However, I do find this model from BB to be appealing:

Image


Remember, my OP stated I was after something "traditional with a twist"

Cheers!
 
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#19 ·
@Watchman the only real suggestion that I would offer is about the fabric. Sharkskin, in my opinion and as @Matt S has stated, is more of a suiting fabric. I'd opt for a hopsack fabric for this blazer, especially since you're going to make it a touch more casual with patch pockets. If you went with flapped pockets I'd lean towards a navy serge.

As to buttons, what about smoked mother of pearl?
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Whilst gaudy, garish and repulsive are all accurate adjectives describing my reaction to shiny brass buttons.

I furthermore find the shiny metallic silver to produce an entirely different visceral backlash of chintzy and tacky as if the silver buttons only shout "we want to be brass, but alas, we are not"

Then again, if the overall aesthetics and proportions of said navy blazer are properly done with good symmetry, clean lines etcetera then I would entertain the idea of procuring one with gaudy, garish, chintzy, tacky shiny metallic buttons notwithstanding.

@CLTesquire smoky MOP buttons sound delightful.
 
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Watchman
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