Suit fit: 38R too big in "non slim" suits, good in slim suits?

Domon · Mar 14, 2015

While i certainly will be taking my suit to be tailored, im attempting to figure out how to get closest to my actual size prior to that. When sized at a couple of suit shops, i tend to come out to a 37R, or a 38R. In slim fit, the 38R fits well, but its an absolute tent in other brands.

My actual chest measurement is 35 when fully exhaled, and 37 1/4 when putting as much air in my lungs as possible, measured right under my armpits, with an undershirt and dress shirt on.

This is the suit im looking at, and many comments here indicate these suits tend to run "portly", whereas i prefer slimmer fit.

https://www.paulfredrick.com/Catalo...tion=&Mono_Color=&alteration=no&inseam=select&engrave=&Quantity=1&securedPage=f

Im 6 foot even, 150 pounds, no belly or gut, and have a 31 or 32 waist depending on brand, 14 1/2 neck, and 32 arms

Any recommendations what i should order for the tailor to have the best chance at a clean fit? 38 per normal risking it being a tent, and hoping he can take it in? Or 36 and risk it being too small.

The smallest size offered in the vest is 38 anyway, which is disappointing.

SG_67 · Mar 14, 2015

Don't pay attention to the numbers and slim vs. traditional fit.

Different suits from different brands are going to be cut differently. With so many questions, my recommendation would be to just go to a reputable retailer, Brooks Brothers for example, and try on different suits and go with what fits the best. All suits will require some tweaks here and there.

I would not, however, order a suit online unless you have done so before and you know how that particular cut and model are going to fit you. There are far too many variables when it comes to the fit of a suit to rely on a measurement across the chest.

That's my advice. Good luck.

momsdoc · Mar 15, 2015

I'll echo SG's response . Size numbers are meaningless. One brands 36 slim is another's 38R. Trying on different brands and their different styles is the only way to go. Yes, even in the same brand, different models will be sized differently. Until you are familiar with the fit of a particular suit, you have no way of knowing which size fits best. When ordering an unknown jacket by mail you must be assured of free returns. In that case you may want to order 2 or 3 different sizes and return the ones that don't fit well. My jackets range from 38 short in slim fit to 40 regular in classical cuts. There is no industry standard.

BTW, what brands are you looking at. I've never seen a 37, odd sizes are rare as it is, and anything under a 38 is as hard to find as Bigfoot.

Domon · Mar 15, 2015

Unfortunately what im looking for, ive had no luck finding locally.

Have checked out Suit Supply in georgetown, the standard chain places (jos a bank, no vested suits at all), Mens wearhouse (nothing), and brooks brothers, no vested suits with lapels on the vests.

I have another thread here with a bit more detail on what im trying to get:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...lp-me-find-my-suit-Wedding-Thread-(Grey-3-piece-5-or-6-button-vest-with-lapels)

Jovan · Mar 15, 2015

Sounds like you need a 36R.

SG_67 · Mar 15, 2015

Domon said:
Unfortunately what im looking for, ive had no luck finding locally.

Have checked out Suit Supply in georgetown, the standard chain places (jos a bank, no vested suits at all), Mens wearhouse (nothing), and brooks brothers, no vested suits with lapels on the vests.

I have another thread here with a bit more detail on what im trying to get:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...lp-me-find-my-suit-Wedding-Thread-(Grey-3-piece-5-or-6-button-vest-with-lapels)

Have you considered made to measure? It may be your only realistic alternative.

You're basically facing the same conundrum as many; you have a pretty tight budget but you want to find something with bells and whistles and very specific at that.

You might be able to find something online, and I'll tell you the same thing as I told you in the other post you linked to. Ordering something like that online can only lead to endless trips back and forth to a tailor and when you finally tally up the alterations costs, your personal time spent dealing with it and assuming the outcome is what you wanted, you may well come close to the cost of having done a made to measure suit.

You mentioned Georgetown, so I'll assume you're in the DC metro. There's Paul Stuart also.

Domon · Mar 18, 2015

SG_67 said:
Have you considered made to measure? It may be your only realistic alternative.

You're basically facing the same conundrum as many; you have a pretty tight budget but you want to find something with bells and whistles and very specific at that.

You might be able to find something online, and I'll tell you the same thing as I told you in the other post you linked to. Ordering something like that online can only lead to endless trips back and forth to a tailor and when you finally tally up the alterations costs, your personal time spent dealing with it and assuming the outcome is what you wanted, you may well come close to the cost of having done a made to measure suit.

You mentioned Georgetown, so I'll assume you're in the DC metro. There's Paul Stuart also.

I have considered MTM, looks like it would be about 1000 at minimum, probably tending towards 1200 for anything bespoke.

I was not aware paul stuart had opened a DC store. I see its new, I will definitely take a look.

SG_67 · Mar 18, 2015

Domon said:
I have considered MTM, looks like it would be about 1000 at minimum, probably tending towards 1200 for anything bespoke.

I was not aware paul stuart had opened a DC store. I see its new, I will definitely take a look.

Paul Stuart is fantastic and their product line is top notch. Dollar for dollar some of the best tailored clothing in my opinion. Given your needs and your particular issue, I think it's wise to spend a little extra and get it done right.

willtrade · Mar 18, 2015

From your size description, I would have looked at a 36.

Check out Charles Tyrwhitt in DC. They are right off the Farragut North metro stop. They also run on the slim side. Their suit sleeve lengths run long so a 36 there might work for you.

How does it fit at the shoulders? Everything else can be altered by a good tailor.

Jovan · Mar 18, 2015

^ I basically said earlier he should try a 36R, but yes.

Il Signor Crispone · Mar 18, 2015

Domon said:
Unfortunately what im looking for, ive had no luck finding locally.

Have checked out Suit Supply in georgetown, the standard chain places (jos a bank, no vested suits at all), Mens wearhouse (nothing), and brooks brothers, no vested suits with lapels on the vests.

I have another thread here with a bit more detail on what im trying to get:

https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...lp-me-find-my-suit-Wedding-Thread-(Grey-3-piece-5-or-6-button-vest-with-lapels)

I applaud you for not only holding out for a waistcoat, but one with lapels as well. Bravo!

I hope you are able to find what you are looking for.

StylePurgatory · Mar 18, 2015

I'm a 36S, 38S, or even 40S depending on the suit. So, just judge each suit when you try it on. There's really no other way to do it, given the differences in dimensions.

SG_67 · Mar 18, 2015

^+1!

Too many moving parts in a suit to base it on some measurements. Those are a good starting point, not an end to themselves.

ran23 · Mar 18, 2015

I am probably down to a 38-R, but with my 34 waist, I will try a 40-S and tailor it down.

TheBarbaron · Mar 19, 2015

OP, I know you mentioned looking at MW, and I'm surprised you didn't find the size at least. We carry a regular selection of 36, 37, and 38s in a variety of fits.

For the specific suit, Joseph Abboud custom has tons of light grey fabrics, the option of a 5 button vest with a choice of 3 lapels, and lots of other options. A reasonable estimate of a vested suit would be $650-750, but with free alterations for life.

If you go with Paul Frederick, be advised the fit is more on the tenty side, so a 36r or 37r will be better than 38.

Domon · Mar 19, 2015

TheBarbaron said:
OP, I know you mentioned looking at MW, and I'm surprised you didn't find the size at least. We carry a regular selection of 36, 37, and 38s in a variety of fits.

For the specific suit, Joseph Abboud custom has tons of light grey fabrics, the option of a 5 button vest with a choice of 3 lapels, and lots of other options. A reasonable estimate of a vested suit would be $650-750, but with free alterations for life.

If you go with Paul Frederick, be advised the fit is more on the tenty side, so a 36r or 37r will be better than 38.

Sorry, i must have not been clear. Definitely found decent fitting suits at MW. But they only had two vested suits, and they were both 3 button. The specific of a 5 or 6 button, and more specifically a lapelled waistcoat (which is really really hard to find unfortunately) was what made them not have many options.

StylePurgatory · Mar 19, 2015

TheBarbaron said:
OP, I know you mentioned looking at MW, and I'm surprised you didn't find the size at least. We carry a regular selection of 36, 37, and 38s in a variety of fits.

For the specific suit, Joseph Abboud custom has tons of light grey fabrics, the option of a 5 button vest with a choice of 3 lapels, and lots of other options. A reasonable estimate of a vested suit would be $650-750, but with free alterations for life.

If you go with Paul Frederick, be advised the fit is more on the tenty side, so a 36r or 37r will be better than 38.

36's (S and R) can be quite difficult to find. I went to the local MW once, and asked if they had any navy suits in a 36S or 38S. There was one.

TheBarbaron · Mar 20, 2015

Yes, the selection is often not huge in-store in those sizes (though that's fewer than I'd expect).

Domon,
I'm not sure which suits you were shown, and it sounds like the consultant wasn't very thorough. OTR, our suit separate vests are all 5 buttons.

But for the lapelled vest, I was discussing the made-to-measure Joseph Abboud items; it may be a shade over your price point (though not a ton), but I'm wearing one of their lapelled vests at the moment. You can have them made in notch, peak, or shawl lapel vests, in any fabric you like, to your size.

Domon · Mar 30, 2015

So, i went to a different MW, and had a much better experience. The salesman was knowledgeable and showed me some suits that fit me much better than the other location. There is a Joseph Abboud variety that comes close to fitting me well, modern fit. Its still a tad big though. Total for separates came to about 700, for a half canvassed suit.

Recommendations on that price, and or the fit of this one?

Ignore the scruffy beard please, not my normal look, growing it out so my barber can do some shaping.

TheBarbaron · Mar 31, 2015

Cautiously, it looks good. The shoulders fit well, and what I can see of the vest is nice. It's hard to tell about the pants with your hand in your pocket, which cause some tension across the top, but you seem to be in the right ballpark at the very least.

If you still want the lapelled vest, you could buy the separates jacket and pants off the rack, and have them make the lapelled vest in the same fabric - IIRC the difference between an OTR and a custom vest is about $50.

Suit fit: 38R too big in "non slim" suits, good in slim suits?

Domon

SG_67

momsdoc

Domon

Jovan

SG_67

Domon

SG_67

willtrade

Jovan

Il Signor Crispone

StylePurgatory

SG_67

ran23

TheBarbaron

Domon

StylePurgatory

TheBarbaron

Domon

TheBarbaron

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