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jcp7701

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

This is my initial posting, and I hope that it's in the correct category.

Recently, I purchased a three-piece, peak lapel Tom Ford suit, and had it altered by a tailor in the Philadelphia area. The alterations were a success, and this suit fits better than any I've ever had, but when I picked it up yesterday, the surgeon's cuffs that I'd requested, as the sleeves were unfinished, were not present. I was not charged for them, thankfully, and the cashier told me that the tailor must have forgotten. He was not present at the time that I picked up the garment, and I needed it for a function that evening.

Not to make a mountain out of a molehill (no, really), but I distinctly remember requesting them, and this would have been the first suit I've owned that had them.

My question: would a tailor be able to make the non-functional cuffs into surgeon's cuffs by removing the buttons and then using whatever device it is that punches holes in the cuffs, or am I stuck with it as is?

The area in which I live is not one in which this will matter at all, but I like the look, and had hoped to wear this suit while visiting some of larger cities. I don't want to look like some rube who's wearing a nice suit without the surgeon's cuffs being present. Granted, not many people would notice, but most of you would, and it would probably cause a certain amount of disdain. I also cannot imagine that he wouldn't have added them, since I requested them.

Thanks!
 
Welcome to the forum.

If he shortened the sleeves it will depend on the technique used to shorten them. By the way, the Duke of Windsor did not care for working buttonholes and his jackets had the sleeve buttons sewed on just like yours. Anyone who would look at a non working cuffs with disdain is a snob. (The attitude toward Tom Ford may be something else). I don't think there are many, if any, real snobs active at AAAC. There is a site where a number of former AAAC and SF members who have been banned post, there you can find snobs par excellence.
 
I can understand your frustration in this, but, as you said, the suit fits better than anything you've previously owned - so at least there's that. Now, that being said, I'd go back to the tailor and calmly explain to him that you'd requested the cuffs be working and see if he can fix his " mistake". If he can't, refer back to the first sentence and be pleased with your nice suit. You've learned a lesson in the vagaries of alterations mistakes, but at least it wasn't a more costly or serious error that rendered an otherwise decent suit unwearable. Good luck.....
 
Take my advice, as I don't think anyone has more experience frustrating tailors and being frustrated by them as I do.

Accept the suit as is. Consider yourself lucky, and I mean REALLY LUCKY that something far, far worse did not happen to it. Do tell the tailor, though, but shrug it off, because the suit fits so well. And, then he will be impressed by your kindness and decorum and this will likely never happen again.
 
I don't want to look like some rube who's wearing a nice suit without the surgeon's cuffs being present.
As someone who has spent a lot of time in larger cities (e.g., Manhattan, DC, Denver, Dallas, Atlanta), I can attest that surgeon's sleeves are a rarity even on expensive suits.

It's annoying they didn't give you what you asked for, but I'm fairly sure your sleeves should still be able to be made functional.

Personally, I've never seen the point of functional cuffs; it's nearly impossible for others to tell the difference at normal distances. And it's affected and ostentatious to leave one unbuttoned. On top of that, the tailoring will cost you quite a bit--all to have a feature that serves no purpose at all. Not even a decorative one, since most people won't be eyeballing your sleeves from a foot away. I suppose if you plan on milking livestock, delivering babies, or hand-washing dishes while in your suit jacket, then you would find it useful to roll up the sleeves.:biggrin:

I've also heard that textile factories have managed to figure out how to make these on cheaper garments; I once saw a Gap sportcoat with functional cuffs. So it's not even the indicator of custom tailoring it once was--much like visible pick stitching.

But if you just like it that much and find it worth the cost of the tailoring, you should get it. Just don't think that the lack of it puts you on par with the belt-and-suspenders crowd. (Every once in a while, I see some young guy wearing a suit with the sleeve label still attached; that's a rube.)
 
The only thing that would likely preclude surgeon's cuffs being added later is if the tailor added fake buttonholes and those would leave a mark if removed.

My go-to suits are Ralph Lauren Black Label and these come from the factory with buttons sewn on but sleeves which can be made to have working buttonholes (they are pretty much tacked together). I always end up having them made with working buttonholes but don't necessarily do it right away (particularly if I buy from a store that doesn't do working buttonholes, like Bloomingdale's).
 
Hello all,

This is my initial posting, and I hope that it's in the correct category.

Recently, I purchased a three-piece, peak lapel Tom Ford suit, and had it altered by a tailor in the Philadelphia area. The alterations were a success, and this suit fits better than any I've ever had, but when I picked it up yesterday, the surgeon's cuffs that I'd requested, as the sleeves were unfinished, were not present. I was not charged for them, thankfully, and the cashier told me that the tailor must have forgotten. He was not present at the time that I picked up the garment, and I needed it for a function that evening.

Not to make a mountain out of a molehill (no, really), but I distinctly remember requesting them, and this would have been the first suit I've owned that had them.

My question: would a tailor be able to make the non-functional cuffs into surgeon's cuffs by removing the buttons and then using whatever device it is that punches holes in the cuffs, or am I stuck with it as is?

The area in which I live is not one in which this will matter at all, but I like the look, and had hoped to wear this suit while visiting some of larger cities. I don't want to look like some rube who's wearing a nice suit without the surgeon's cuffs being present. Granted, not many people would notice, but most of you would, and it would probably cause a certain amount of disdain. I also cannot imagine that he wouldn't have added them, since I requested them.

Thanks!
You can probably still get them added if you wish the expense, but as many others have noted, it's extremely unlikely, unless you leave any undone, which just isn't done, that anyone will know one way or the other. And though not wishing to offend you, it's extremely unlikely that I would notice you at all, either way. The reality is that no one is as interested in us as we are in ourselves. So unless you plan on setting your hair on fire while wearing your surgeon cuffs, don't expect much attention.
 
I don't want to look like some rube who's wearing a nice suit without the surgeon's cuffs being present. Granted, not many people would notice, but most of you would, and it would probably cause a certain amount of disdain.
I guess since it matters to you then you should pay to have them made, but I think you will be disappointed by how little anyone cares about your suit cuffs. Fit, colour/pattern, and the fact that you are wearing a suit at all are what the public notices.
 
Is this a Prank post? Don't feed the trolls.


"The area in which I live is not one in which this will matter at all, but I like the look, and had hoped to wear this suit while visiting some of larger cities. I don't want to look like some rube who's wearing a nice suit without the surgeon's cuffs being present. Granted, not many people would notice, but most of you would, and it would probably cause a certain amount of disdain."
 
I once ripped buttons off a sleeve by accident, and since it looked bad to me, I cut all the cuff buttons off, meaning to have them re-sewn shortly. Well, I forgot and let it go for months, and no one said anything at all. I even pointed it out to a few friends, and their response was "Oh, yeah? Hadn't noticed" Point being practically no one notices cuff buttons
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
My posting was not a prank, I assure you. I'm not sure what kind of question is therefore legitimate, but no quibbles. Thank you so much for all of your kind replies. Please know when I stated that the type of people who would view this forum would notice, I meant that kindly in terms of caring how one looks and therefore, being more likely to notice what others wear, not that you or we are looking down at others. Since it's not such a big deal, and the lack of surgeon's cuffs wouldn't really have the element of "poor taste" that I thought, this can certainly wait. Again, thanks for giving me some opinions--trust me, I'm sorely lacking those in the area where I live.
 
I have surgeons cuffs on a poplin jacket that cost about $100. Whoop te do. It's not a sign of quality, cost or sophistication. I think even if I unbuttoned them and rolled up my sleeves to deliver a baby, no one would notice. If the suit fits well, and isn't garish it will never make you look like a rube.
 
Favorite story. I've had several jackets done by Ravi where the charge for working buttons was all of $15--Thailand used to be cheap. One night at a dinner function a CEO type in a $3000 rig noticed I had working buttonholes while his were fake and asked about them. "Most good suits have working buttonholes," I told him. "They probably sold you a second..."

8 working buttonholes $15. The look on his face, priceless.

But unless you're sitting at a table right next to someone, no one will notice.
 
I tend to get working cuffs on all my jackets. Not because I care that others will notice, because I appreciate the detail (having buttons at all has no purpose, if I'm going to have them they may as we'll be accurate and make the jacket truly mine.) if you happened to buy your suit at Boyd's, they can convert the cuffs any time and do great work.
 
Welcome to the forum.

If he shortened the sleeves it will depend on the technique used to shorten them. By the way, the Duke of Windsor did not care for working buttonholes and his jackets had the sleeve buttons sewed on just like yours. Anyone who would look at a non working cuffs with disdain is a snob. (The attitude toward Tom Ford may be something else). I don't think there are many, if any, real snobs active at AAAC. There is a site where a number of former AAAC and SF members who have been banned post, there you can find snobs par excellence.
Quite right.

OP, perversely lots of (in some cases quite unimpressive) OTR places are cashing in on the 'cachet' of working cuffs as a 'bespoke feature'. I say perversely as it makes the sleeve length more difficult to alter. The fit is far more important than gimmicks.

Also, working cuffs are hardly noticeable. Unless you leave a cuff-button unfastened. Now, this chap is a snob, but he is on to something here (in the second sentence at least):

Francis Bown said:
( VIII ) THOU SHALT NOT WEAR UNFASTENED CUFF BUTTONS

Every gentleman should have working cuff buttons on his jacket. But to leave any of them un-buttoned - one supposes, to impress the observer with the quality and/or expense of the garment being worn - is unconscionably vulgar. It is sartorial boasting and must not be done.


https://www.bownsbespoke.com/tencommandments.htm
 
I usually put working buttons on the cuffs because I like the detail just for myself as, as noted above, I doubt almost anyone else pays this any attention. I have no good explanation for why I like it other than I like vintage details in general and it makes me feel good to know they are there.

That said, because of my time spent on AAAC, I have come to appreciate details in a way I never did before and I've noticed that most suits, even expensive one, with non-functioning buttons do not have "fake" stitching where the buttonhole would be, and my eye catches this all the time. It looks off to me now as my mind is thinking, why are there buttons there if there is no hole for them to go through.

I can absolutely see the argument that working buttons are pointless (I never use mine), but it seems that creating the artifice that they are working - i.e., having the fake stitching for the buttonhole - makes sense to me.

It now bugs me on my sport coats that don't have either the working buttons or the fake stitching to create the image of a buttonhole and I definitely notice this, without trying, on other's suits.

But I also acknowledge that AAAC has probably made me a bit insane about clothing details, so I might be the only person who thinks about it this way.
 
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