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Is inseam a constant measure?

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Dieu et les Dames

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I want to simply drop off a few pairs of slacks at the cleaners to be hemmed and I can't seem to nail down a fundamental concept about inseams and outseams.

Inseam is a constant measure, while outseam varies with the rise, correct?

Could I just drop off anything and say I want a 32" inseam without having to try them on in the shop?

The rise is the rise, that is to say if a pair sits at my navel it will always sit there no matter if the pants drag the floor or show my ankles?
 
#2 ·
Inseam is not a constant measure at all, being mostly dependent upon rise but also on fabric type as well as on small variations in cut or production methods. I've learned the hard way that dropping off pants with only an inseam measurement is sure to disappoint. Have each and every pair hemmed individually.

Outseam is a slightly better measure, but I wouldn't recommend even that. Take the time to get measured for each pair.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Pentheos said:
Inseam is not a constant measure at all, being mostly dependent upon rise but also on fabric type as well as on small variations in cut or production methods. I've learned the hard way that dropping off pants with only an inseam measurement is sure to disappoint. Have each and every pair hemmed individually.

Outseam is a slightly better measure, but I wouldn't recommend even that. Take the time to get measured for each pair.
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I've had mostly good results simply specifying inseam length, but Pentheos is correct. And I'd go further to say that cut can have a more significant effect than might be expected. In general, I've found that a snugger pair of pants may need a longer inseam than a looser pair. Perhaps the looser pants hang straighter?
 
#4 ·
I have ordered many trousers over the years from various vendors. The inseam measurment stays fairly constant among similar styles from the same vendor. There is a bit of variation when applied to different styles or vendors. I have found this relates to how the overall top of the pants fit with respect to the crotch, rise being irrelevant. If the crotch fit is proper the inseam variations are within 1/2" from my experience. Since I choose a medium break this variation does not affect the wearability of the trousers.

The exception I have found is that cuffed pants tend to run a bit longer, 1/2"-1" for some reason, so I adjust down 1/2" when ordering. Free delivery and liberal return policies have given me great experience over the years.

Still if I had my druthers, I'd have the tailor mark them in person. If you're going there to drop them off, putting them on and having them marked takes just a minute more. Well worth the time invested.
 
#6 ·
I hem my trousers to different lengths depending on the leg opening size. A smaller opening needs to be hemmed shorter than a larger opening. The length of my trousers with a 9.5" leg opening to have a half break in front will create a messy break in trousers with an 8.5" opening. Turn-ups (cuffs) will need to be shorter than trousers without, because without turn-ups the bottoms should be slanted. It's not a big deal to try on your trousers. I've made the mistake before of having trousers hemmed to a certain length, and they are now unwearable because they were made too short.
 
#9 ·
In my experience, inseams are approximate. And, approximate is not good enough for a correct fit.

Also, a good tailor will mark each pant leg.
 
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#10 ·
While I know someone will have a story that goes something like this: for the last 800 years, I've ordered the X model pants from Y company and the inseam is always the same. If so, then you have found the exception to the rule. And I'll further concede that maybe in the Golden Era, when men's clothing changed little from year to year and companies and customers valued consistency, perhaps inseams and other measurements were consistent within brands or at least within models of brands.

But my many decades of experience is that inseam measurements are as unique and inconsistent as personalities. Forget consistency across companies; forget consistency within a company and, even, forget consistency within the same model. When buying pre-cut pants (32"x32", for example), I will take two or three pairs of the exact same size into the dressing room and, almost every single time, there will be variation in the length. Just from recent memory, this holds for Levi's, Gap, Old Navy, Brooks Brothers, J.Crew and Eddie Bauer. And I am a big fan of a few of these companies, so I'm not a disaffected customer.

And forget giving a tailor a pair of pants and saying I want a 32" inseam. Not blaming the tailor, but your chances of getting a good result is the same as your chances of making a free-throw with your eyes clothes - it will happen a few times if you try many, many times. Where the pants sit on your waste, exactly where he starts or finishes the measurement, how "stretched" the material was when measured can all bring in variation. Having them measured on your body is the only way to go.

I feel better having gotten that off my chest. :smile:
 
#12 ·
I've had issues nailing down perfect inseam lengths myself. To add to all the variables already mentioned, trying on the pants with a tailor also in no way guarantees success. Like many around here, I like my pants shorter than what I guess is considered traditional - just a tiny break. Most tailors error on the side of going longer, giving too much break, even when you make a point to ask for very little break. I was actually just searching on this very issue and read one post where someone said they wear the pants lower than usual on the waist when at the tailor to end up with the length they want.

While I've seriously considered trying to sew pants myself, another approach that can work for me is not specifying an inseam length, but rather telling the tailor how much to shorten pants by (not trying them on in front of the tailor). That would be more for finished pants that are too long. For unfinished pants, I've ironed them at the length I want them on one leg.

Along with many others, I have this exact same issue with getting tailors to shorten jacket sleeves short enough to show shirt cuff. The somewhat perverse result of all this is that I end up giving more business to random dry cleaners who seem to prefer simple direct instructions as opposed to supporting the local tailors who I would rather give my money to and want to keep in business.
 
#13 ·
alkydrinker said:
I like my pants shorter than what I guess is considered traditional - just a tiny break. Most tailors error on the side of going longer, giving too much break, even when you make a point to ask for very little break.
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That's an excellent point.

I ask for a "half-break" but some tailors still give me a "full-break." I think they're afraid of making the pants too short. You need to "train" your tailor to get the length were you like it.
 
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#15 ·
godan said:
Fortunately for me, my alterations tailor does the work for the university's ROTC detachment, so she fully understands the specifics of the "military break."
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What sounds ideal is that you found a tailor used to responding to demanding, engaged clients who care deeply about the results. As long as she can tailor for a non-military look - the best tailors are able to tailor to many styles, but know what each style demands and can guide and recommend the client to get there - she sounds like a find.

The best tailors I've known over the years have two broad skills - the actual tailoring ability (many are hacks, some skilled craftsmen) and a passion of having the clothes look great and the client satisfied (you want a tailor who won't let you out of his store even if you think it looks right because he sees something that still needs tweaking / you also want him to care that you feel good with the results). If you can find one with both skills - that is a keeper.
 
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