Men's Clothing Forums banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Super 150s...gimmick or real?

1 reading
Jump to Latest
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
#21 ·
Long johns would protect against scratchiness and are logical if it's cold enough to wear tweed trousers or a suit. They'd have to be synthetic or artifically-made fibre though, to ensure they don't bunch on the leg.

Ever notice how some makers only put the knee lining on the front? What's that all about?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#22 ·
JBierly said:
Actually the tensile strength may not correlate all that well with the S number. This article is a bit dated but shows that there is quite a bit of variability in the strength of fibers that is not wholly correlated with the S number.

online.wsj.com/article/SB116320267593320299.html.html‎

The length of the fibers also can have a great effect on the strength of the fiber and this is not reflected in the S number - which is another way of saying that all fabrics with the same S numbers may not wear identically. I suspect that for those who wear suits occasionally that wear issues may not be too important - for someone who travels greatly and always wears a suit then perhaps it may be better to consider a lower S number.
Click to expand...
Important points. As has been pointed out, the S number indicates only the thickness of the wool fiber that is spun into yarn, and there are many other variables that will affect the properties of the cloth from which that yarn is eventually woven. And as has also been pointed out, the S number has nothing to do with thread count or twist.

All things being equal a thicker fiber will be stronger than a thinner one. But all things are usually not equal. A longer fiber of any given thickness can be spun into yarn that is both stronger and smoother. How much fiber is used to spin yarn of a given thickness, and how tightly that yarn is spun will also serve to help determine both strength and smoothness.

And when the spun yarn is woven into cloth, how much yarn is used in a given area and the type of weave used will also affect both strength and hand. And the finishing of the cloth will also affect the hand (smoothness) of the cloth.
 
#23 ·
Jovan said:
Long johns would protect against scratchiness and are logical if it's cold enough to wear tweed trousers or a suit. They'd have to be synthetic or artifically-made fibre though, to ensure they don't bunch on the leg.

Ever notice how some makers only put the knee lining on the front? What's that all about?
Click to expand...
Ehh, I never wear anything under trousers other than normal boxers. If the pants are warm enough, I should be wearing something else (never could wear longjohns, just not comfortable to me).

I have no clue why they just line the front, but I suspect it is to prevent premature wear to the fabric, as that is the place that would have the most friction.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#24 ·
Interesting. The MTM operations I've come across line both front and back if they do the knee lining, which I'd think is more beneficial when sitting down.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#25 ·
Flanderian said:
This is a complex issue. Super 150's cloth can be marvelous, or be a gimmick and not really very good cloth depending on how it was spun and woven. Generally, very soft cloth is mixed blessing. I have an older suit made from lightweight, extremely soft all-Merino that wears like iron. But usually the tradeoff is that softer and lighter equals more delicate cloth that will wear faster. And some of it may also wrinkle more, again, depending on how it was spun and woven. But despite these limitations, it can be beautiful cloth, but should be thought of as luxury cloth that may prove somewhat delicate.
Click to expand...
+1 . not all super 150s are created equal. there are more components to a good cloth than simply the super #. For example, one tailor made me a pair of pants from super 150s by a mill I hadn't heard of and it never felt or hung right, but I had a super 120s suit made from Holland & Sherry cloth and it felt terrific and luxurious. You need to know your mills or have a tailor you trust to guide you. The tailor I now use, who is very respected and knowledgeable, told me that different mills have different strengths and it helps to know what they are. I believe I recall him saying that H&S does a good job with the Supers and Scabal does a really good job with light cloth and mohair. More common names that are probably safer bets but a bit expensive would be Zegna and Loro Piana. For you, until you learn more, I'd stick with common brands you can trust and if it gets too expensive at the 150s level, go down a notch.
 
#26 ·
ckgs said:
My guess is it depends on the mill. I have a suit with loro piana 150 and it's fantastic. It is not thin and light, rather is actually fairly thick. It's not fragile and I see no reason not to wear regularly.
Click to expand...
It may also depend on the origin of the fabric. Tasmanian Super 150's feel thin unless blended with cashmere. Loro Piana Super 150 from an Italian mill is much more sturdy. I have owned both.
 
#31 ·
The jacket and pants will probably be lined, so will they really touch your skin? I had the same idea when I bought a cashmere sportcoat. It's still a great jacket, but I have to be content as the only one knowing how soft it is.
I just had a picture in my mind of someone walking around saying "feel this!" and "accidentally" rubbing against coworkers.

Anyways, you should buy whatever makes you happy. Welcome to the forum.[/QUOTE]

I was short, portly and old when this thread started--but when I wear my heavy winter cashmere sweaters and jackets women are always touching and saying "That feels so soft." I don't tell them the softness mostly come from my being old and portly. Ah, well...
 
#32 ·
watchnerd said:
Super 150 is absolutely worth it on those hot summer days when you go commando, especially if your man tackle is 'shorn', as Dr. Evil would say.
Click to expand...
You should never go commando in a suit. A low Super # in a light weight and open weave, with your choice of underwear, is a much better choice. There is never the need for Super 150s.
 
21 - 37 of 37 Posts
About this Discussion
36 Replies
21 Participants
Last post:
Jovan
Men's Clothing Forums
posts
1.7M
members
84K
Since
2004
A forum community dedicated to men’s fashion and clothing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about collections, materials, models, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Timeless Style Trad Style The Interchange Food, Drink, Travel & The Arts Deals, Steals, & Sales!