Deciding between a lapeled and non-lapel waistcoat

CuffDaddy · Oct 1, 2012

OK, I'll try again:

CuffDaddy · Oct 1, 2012

Jovan said:
From the examples I've seen, it looks like you should have fairly flat lapels on your waistcoat. I've seen some with a lot of roll, and it tends to make the front of one's suit look rather bulky.

Many/most waistcoat lapels are actually stitched on*, rather than rolled over as with a jacket lapel. There's no canvas to hold a roll, so rolled lapels only work on heavy-fabric vests anyway.

* To be clear, they are still a separate layer of material, and you can slide your hand under them from the notch side. But often they are not formed by folding over a portion of the front of the vest, but are added by stitching a double-sided lapel-shaped assembly to the inside edge of the chest. I'm doing a lousy job of explaining it, aren't I?

TheGreatTwizz · Oct 1, 2012

Bjorn said:
Yes, they should probably match, the lapels. Maybe to be the same "level" of formality. Be coherent.

As long as we can feel secure in ignoring the "rule" against peak lapels on an sb jacket

I like peak lapels on sb jackets. The lapels in my pic are real pretty, IMO.

Got it.

I'm a big fan of PL on a SB jacket, however this commission is for what I should have ordered many moons ago, and something that I'm lacking in my wardrobe: a funeral suit (dark charcoal, 2 button, notch lapel). Figures the first staple is something I'm missing.

Kingstonian · Oct 1, 2012

Jeremy Thorpe used to wear waistcoats with reveres. That is one reason I would not want to wear them.

Jovan · Oct 1, 2012

I also hear that Adolf Hitler wore three piece suits! I'm not ever wearing them again for that very reason.

CuffDaddy: I've seen a Proper Suit customer wearing a four button waistcoat with rolled lapels. Lightweight worsted fabric. It's interesting looking, but not something I'd do myself. I'll see if I can find a picture.

CuffDaddy · Oct 2, 2012

Jovan said:
CuffDaddy: I've seen a Proper Suit customer wearing a four button waistcoat with rolled lapels. Lightweight worsted fabric. It's interesting looking, but not something I'd do myself. I'll see if I can find a picture.

Oh, I've got some of those too. Mostly odd vests, though. I don't think they'd be a good combination with a slim cut, which is what I seem to recall Proper Suit selling. With heavier fabrics, a jacket with generous lapels, etc., the scale holds up, and it can add some depth to the layering.

Jovan · Oct 2, 2012

Actually, Proper Suit sells any cut you wish (they've made suits for guys in DC who need to look more conservative), but their younger, more trendy customers are the ones who get photographed the most.

CuffDaddy · Oct 2, 2012

OK, what they're marketing , then.

a tailor · Oct 3, 2012

if its a heavier or a bulky cloth, omit the lapel.
you dont need to add more layers of bulk.
see bluesmans post. #8

Deciding between a lapeled and non-lapel waistcoat

CuffDaddy

CuffDaddy

TheGreatTwizz

Kingstonian

Jovan

CuffDaddy

Jovan

CuffDaddy

a tailor

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