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French Cuff Skepticism

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Shaver

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Fellow members I am seeking kindly illumination.

Much of the information that we discuss and that we enjoy sharing appears, once an understanding of the purpose of garments is achieved, compellingly self evident - accepting of course reasonable latitude for personal preference.

This being so I reveal my potential heresy, but endeavour to ascribe purpose over mere penchant.

I am not so keen on french cuffs. Here's why, in no particular order of consequence:

Cuff links - far too much akin to jewellery for my taste (and all too often an unfortunate opportunity for a man to reveal his *ahem* quirky nature)

Ungainliness - a lounge suit being a sleek shell. The cut and flow of lines promoting a pleasing and flattering shape but impaired by clunky double cuffs poking out from the jacket sleeve. They do appear to defeat much of the effect that one tries so to achieve.

Cipher for style - very often a chap believes that an 'upgrade' to these fancy cuffs allows a more sophisticated demeanour. Concededly this is a more tenuous rationale for disapproval however the association with slip-shoddery is tangible. I see perhaps more wrong headedness in every aspect of their attire from many French Cuff wearers than is exhibited by any other type of business dresser. Am I adequately expressing myself here? I hope so but will cheerfully clarify if not.

Barrel cuffs - is there some deficiency of which I am unaware? What allows these simple and elegant finishes to a sleeve to be considered inferior?

Full disclosure, I do occasionally wear single cuffs with silken barrel knots but still find these a less attractive finish to a suit.

I am absolutely prepared to be convinced of my error in negative opinion of the French cuff, if such exists.
 
#2 ·
I fear that my favor for double cuffs is due to a utterly different worldview form yours. Jewelry? Sorry, old man, but I like jewelry. Certainly much of my local environment takes this to a ghastly extreme, gold neck chains, cornos, multiple rings one each hand, gaudy wristwatches, etc., but a decorous pocket watch, a wedding band, perhaps a class ring and a pair of discreetly luxurious cufflinks are not gauche or nouveau riche in my not terribly humble opinion. Cufflinks predate cuff buttons, after all, and to me it seems that eschewing them is an overstatement of assumed modesty. I have reached a time in my life when I can afford to show that I can afford to show. And I feel no guilt about it.
 
#3 ·
I wear French cuffs most of the time. When my grandfather passed away, my mother gave me his cuff links. I never saw him in anything but a suit. They sat in a drawer for years. The cleaners I was using (I have since switched) was routinely cracking the buttons on the sleeves, so I thought I would try some French cuff shirts and wear my grandfather's links. By the way, he didn't have anything that was cheap. I like wearing something that was his.

Having said that, people seem to look at them as "showing off", as though you have extra money to burn or trying to be flashy. Also, once people noticed I wore them, I started getting them as gifts. Now I have reached the point that I will try to match them with ties. I don't know if a "classic" shirt should have double cuffs, but it seems so. I don't know. I do plan to continue wearing them.

I usually wear barrel cuffs with a odd jacket or sport coat, as I perceive that as more casual.
 
#4 ·
I am totally on Shaver's side on this one. I think it is because I tend to apply Mies van der Rohe's architectural principles to the way I dress: "Less is more" and "God is in the details". I am not keen on how the French cuff is fluffier and clunkier, compared to a single cuff, which just appears more streamlined.
I don't mind single link cuffs and, oddly, cocktail cuffs, though.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Shaver, I am not exactly against them, but agree with you that they just don't seem to be necessary for a nicely finished look, and can in fact look "clunky" I have some on an MTM shirt, and they are the first I've had that didn't seem bulky
 
#10 ·
For the most part I am with Shaver. Many years ago I met a Gordon Gecko type who wore French cuffs with gaudy cuff links and I cannot help but think of him when I see french cuffs, no matter what the cuff links, worn during the day. Probably because French cuffs are worn with Black tie, for me, this association does not carry over into the evening when French cuffs with discreet cuff links are worn with a suit at social events.
 
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#11 ·
In all the forums I participate in, I am constantly impressed with the UK members ability to express themselves so clearly, eloquently and succinctly (mostly). I certainly would aspire to use the language so well.

However, as to double cuffs, I am a fan. I work in Los Angeles for a large corporation and we're about two years from showing up for work in pajamas like Hef. I like that double cuffs make me stand out a bit from the crowd.

I don't post a lot in here because frankly, I feel a bit out of place. I enjoy dressing, grooming and pick up a lot of tips here for sure. But in practice, I'm the guy many of the traditionalists loathe. I break a lot of the "rules" and people either like it, or find it repulsive.

I cannot mount an argument to persuade Shaver that double cuffs are "better." But I certainly prefer them when dressing up, which happens infrequently for me these days.
 
#12 ·
StylinLa said:
In all the forums I participate in, I am constantly impressed with the UK members ability to express themselves so clearly, eloquently and succinctly (mostly). I certainly would aspire to use the language so well.

However, as to double cuffs, I am a fan. I work in Los Angeles for a large corporation and we're about two years from showing up for work in pajamas like Hef. I like that double cuffs make me stand out a bit from the crowd.

I don't post a lot in here because frankly, I feel a bit out of place. I enjoy dressing, grooming and pick up a lot of tips here for sure. But in practice, I'm the guy many of the traditionalists loathe. I break a lot of the "rules" and people either like it, or find it repulsive.

I cannot mount an argument to persuade Shaver that double cuffs are "better." But I certainly prefer them when dressing up, which happens infrequently for me these days.
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No loathing at all toward you. We may disagree as to details, but we share the fundamental principle that men should present themselves appropriately attired. Loathing is directed toward the slobs. https://askandyaboutclothes.com/com...munity/showthread.php?118036-America-The-Slovenly-Dressing-Down-and-Blimping-Up
 
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#14 ·
I don't wear cuff links. They're not my style. My style is simple, classic and lean.

But, I don't find cuff links gaudy, showy or in any way inappropriate. In fact, most of the guys who wear them have exceptional taste in their dress and style.

To each his own.
 
#15 ·
Shaver said:
Cuff links - far too much akin to jewellery for my taste (and all too often an unfortunate opportunity for a man to reveal his *ahem* quirky nature)

Ungainliness - a lounge suit being a sleek shell. The cut and flow of lines promoting a pleasing and flattering shape but impaired by clunky double cuffs poking out from the jacket sleeve. They do appear to defeat much of the effect that one tries so to achieve.

Cipher for style - very often a chap believes that an 'upgrade' to these fancy cuffs allows a more sophisticated demeanour. Concededly this is a more tenuous rationale for disapproval however the association with slip-shoddery is tangible. I see perhaps more wrong headedness from many French Cuff wearers than is exhibited by any other type of business dresser. Am I adequately expressing myself here? I hope so but will cheerfully clarify if not.

Barrel cuffs - is there some deficiency of which I am unaware? What allows these simple and elegant finishes to a sleeve to be considered inferior?

Full disclosure, I do occasionally wear single link cuffs with silken barrel knots but still find these a less attractive finish to a suit.

I am absolutely prepared to be convinced of my error in negative opinion of the French cuff, if such exists.
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I don't wear any jewelry at all - I used to wear nice watches but they have been replaced by my cell phone. If you don't like jewelry I can understand why you wouldn't care for cufflinks. For me they are the only jewelry that I wear. For me the error in your reasoning is that you find jewelry undesirable in the first place - it serves only to reveal his quirky nature. I admit I don't particularly like jewelry on men - in general it draws your eye to his skin and at least I don't want to do that. (think 70s look with the gold chain - it is not an aesthetic I look to achieve). Cufflinks for me are an exception as long as they are tasteful. They can be used to draw out other things in an outfit matching a belt, a shirt, a tie, even the color of your eyes.

The weight of the cuff also helps keep the cuff from drawing back into the jacket so easily so that is another plus for me.

One other caveat - you don't have to worry about the buttons breaking.

For the record I am a fan of both - when wearing a suit I am more inclined to have French cuffs and no pocket on the shirt. When dressing more casual then barrel cuffs with buttons and a pocket.

Jack
 
#18 ·
My view has changed over the years, but I have ceased buying OTR French cuff shirts because the cuffs are oversized, especially in relation to my relatively slender wrists. And because I don't wear a chunky watch my wrist/hand can seem slightly overwhelmed by the cuffs.

If I could afford the services of good shirtmaker, and get results nearing that of the Prince Charles's French cuffs and Jack Buchanan's French cuffs as pictured in Flusser's Dressing The Man, pages 111 and 131 respectively, then I would, indeed, wear French cuffs more often, though my preference is still for barrel cuffs.
 
#19 ·
I agree with Mr. Shaver about some men going over the top with their cuff links. However, I break company with him about the cuffs themselves. I wear them 5 days a week. In my view, they lend more formality and elegance than barrel cuffs, which is not to say I dislike or look askance at them. The links are the only jewelry which I wear.

P.S. I don't wear a wrist watch because I am lefthanded and as such used to wear a watch on my right wrist, which used to fray the edge of my cuffs because of the plunger/windup device rubbed against them during the day.
 
#20 · (Edited)
I have never given much thought to why I wear cufflinks: It was the style I was brought up with, and is commonplace, and at one time de rigueur - as I'm sure Shaver will agree - in professional circles in the UK. I have given rather more thought to the sorts of cufflinks I wear. In fact, I have only one pair (leaving aside silk knots), which are a pair of antique gold 'torpedo' shaped cufflinks that are small and unobtrusive.

I would - in a way that is intended to be lighthearted and well-intentioned - take issue with a few of the arguments put forward in support of this heresy, however:

Shaver said:
Cuff links - far too much akin to jewellery for my taste (and all too often an unfortunate opportunity for a man to reveal his *ahem* quirky nature)
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Perhaps, in my view, the best argument. But specious. I strongly endorse the general principle that a man should not wear jewellery. But it is customarily accepted that a man may wear a watch (pocket or wrist), a wedding ring and cufflinks. These are exceptions to the general principle, hallowed by long observance.

A signet ring, where there is a family tradition, is in my view also acceptable. But it creates problems for married men who wish to wear wedding rings - note how HRH the Prince of Wales wears his wedding ring behind his signet ring on the smallest finger of his left hand.

While I understand there is a strong American tradition of class / University rings, I will not comment on that as it is not within my knowledge.

Shaver said:
Ungainliness - a lounge suit being a sleek shell. The cut and flow of lines promoting a pleasing and flattering shape but impaired by clunky double cuffs poking out from the jacket sleeve. They do appear to defeat much of the effect that one tries so to achieve.
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Thought provoking, but having thought about it I simply don't agree (and I generally favour simplicity). Also, as others have pointed out, 'clunky' double cuffs may simply be a sign of a poorly fitting shirt.

On clunky cufflinks, see below ...

Shaver said:
Cipher for style - very often a chap believes that an 'upgrade' to these fancy cuffs allows a more sophisticated demeanour. Concededly this is a more tenuous rationale for disapproval however the association with slip-shoddery is tangible. I see perhaps more wrong headedness from many French Cuff wearers than is exhibited by any other type of business dresser. Am I adequately expressing myself here? I hope so but will cheerfully clarify if not.
Click to expand...
A non sequitur (as an argument against cufflinks). Actually, this is not my experience as observational fact. But even if it was, this is like suggesting that as slobs often go through the day wearing a unbuttoned collar and a tugged down tie, we should stop wearing ties.

I agree that cufflinks are often abused (like many other articles of clothing and accessories). A chunky cufflink is best avoided always. Chunky cufflinks with the arms of a University one attended give the impression - in the UK at least - of trying too hard (perhaps a sharp estate agent). If one did not attend the University in question, the impression is the same but the chap is probably trying to flog you a sub-prime product on the basis of self-certified income. A chunky cufflink in onyx with a diamond in the middle ....:icon_pale:

Shaver said:
Barrel cuffs - is there some deficiency of which I am unaware? What allows these simple and elegant finishes to a sleeve to be considered inferior?
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The presence or absence of a deficiency isn't really the issue, as we don't wear clothing on a purely functional basis.

The pleasure of participating in the fora is the challenge they provide to inherited orthodoxies. But - although a thought provoking thread - I do not see myself abandoning cufflinks.

Incidentally, I do not generally wear cufflinks with odd jackets (although a blazer and flannels can be paired acceptably with a double-cuffed shirt).
 
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