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take_five

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Suppose you have:
  1. Light skin (something between white and light pink).
  2. Very light brown hair.
  3. Light blue eyes (lackluster and not saturated as opposed to Frank Sinatra or Paul Newman had).
The problem is light brown is a warm color while light blue is a cold color.

The question is would you rather choose gray or light brown as a color of your coats or suits?
 
In "color theory" theory light blue is a pastel, it is navy that is cool. Each shade and tint are good for some men and not for others. You have your own good and bad browns and good and bad blues. I have learned not to talk about what I cannot see and thus without pictures I do not feel comfortable talking about your best colors. I would get the book Color For Men https://www.amazon.com/Color-Men-Carole-Jackson/dp/0345345460. Because I do have to go to work this morning please allow me to repeat a past post.

Over 20 years ago a friend of mine who was in the woman's clothing business told me she had gone to a seminar given by Carole Jackson, the author of Color Me Beautiful, where she learned how to dress her customers in colors that best flattered each customer's face. I expressed interest and she offered to "do my colors". The process was in some respect similar to an eye exam in which you are successively given two lens combinations to look through and asked through which could you see clearer. I was seated in a chair before a mirror and she successively draped different colored cloth under my face to determine which made me look better. For example I looked better when my face was framed by navy cloth when compared to camel cloth, the camel simply left my face looking washed out. There was no mystery as to why , my skin has an olive undertone, the yellow component in my olive undertone skin blended in with the yellow component of the camel cloth, while the yellow component in my complexion stood out in stark contrast next to the navy cloth.

After a series of comparisons it became obvious that I looked my best in vivid dark colors or pure white. The navy and dark greys commonly found in suiting framed my complexion to its best advantage. On the other hand brown, camel, olive, and earth tones left me looking washed out. Pure white was my best shirt color. Soft white, oyster white, and ivory left me washed out.

The same process with sportswear colors found I looked good in vivid red, or vivid red with a little blue added. while red with yellow added did not look nearly as good. Moreover tints of red, peach and pink did not work. I just do not look good in pastels.

My son has a different complexion. He looks his best in the camel jacket and pastels I cannot wear. On the other hand a navy jacket drains the color from his face. While I can wear oxford or charcoal grey to advantage, his best are light to medium warm greys. While I wear pure white shirts, he looks his best in ivory.

What I learned then has proven invaluable as I no longer spend money on, or wear, those colors that are "bad" for me. Occasionally I
wear a shirt in a less than optimal shade of blue, but it is done so knowingly and because it is helpful to the ensemble as a whole eg. with seersucker suit or white linen jacket.

This is not about being dressed by women. No doubt Ms. Jackson's book, ( Color for Men was just a sequel with nothing really new), simply took what artists have known for centuries, that is, when different colors are placed next to color A , some will cause color A to stand out, others will cause color A to recede, and still others will overpower color A.

For anyone who does not believe there is something to this I challenge you to an experiment. The next time you are contemplating acquiring a new jacket or shirt try sitting or standing in front of a mirror and drape fabrics in front of your face. See if you look better with navy or camel, khaki or ivory, teal blue or powder blue, burgundy or orange, rose brown or golden brown, pure white or ivory, or oyster white, or soft white. If there is no difference then you are right, there is nothing to it. On the other hand, if you see differences use what you see to your advantage. There is no reason to just look good in sub optimal colors when with different colors you can look your best .
arkirshner
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
  1. That was a wonderful posting. Thanks a lot. Since pastels fit your son well I wonder what kind of complexion he has. I'd like to know what kind of complexions are good with pastels.
  2. You say camel makes your face looking washed out. Is it because your skin is tanned intensely?
  3. Doesn't navy draws too much attention from your face? I mean it is great when some color doesn't make your face looking washed out and yet on the other hand some colors distract the attention from your face and draw the attention to your clothes. So, the question is where do you draw the line between complementing to your face and distracting from your face?
 
Suppose you have:
  1. Light skin (something between white and light pink).
  2. Very light brown hair.
  3. Light blue eyes (lackluster and not saturated as opposed to Frank Sinatra or Paul Newman had).
The problem is light brown is a warm color while light blue is a cold color.

The question is would you rather choose gray or light brown as a color of your coats or suits?
A somewhat different approach -

1. Who are you?

2. How do you feel about yourself?

3. Who do you want to be?

Find some photos of men with coloring similar to yours. Select among them photos of men who you think are wearing clothes that make them look good, and that are in accord with your answers above. Not clothes that are fashionable, but clothes that enhance their intrinsic appearance. Experiment with similar clothing. Develop an eye (discernment), and build a wardrobe based upon your own personal aesthetic growth.
 
Get a Colour Analysis done. Read about it on https://www.colormebeautiful.com/, then head to to
https://inside.colorme.com/FindConsultantCMB/index.aspx and find a consultant in your area. He'll leave you a swatch of fabrics showing your neutral colors (suits, coats, etc.) and accent ones (scarves, ties, patterns, etc.).

You could do a colour analysis on your own, but I preferred hiring a professional to avoid costly mistakes. It may seem expensive, but it's worth it: shopping with absolute confidence about what is right for you and what is not is an exhilarating experience, and you'll even start wearing flattering colors you didn't think about before.

You may be unlucky like me and discover that your colours are less likely to come by - I must avoid pure whites, blacks, blues, pinks... about 90% of shirts, in other words - but even then, you'll have absolute confidence that you aren't settling.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Find some photos of men with coloring similar to yours. Select among them photos of men who you think are wearing clothes that make them look good, and that are in accord with your answers above. Not clothes that are fashionable, but clothes that enhance their intrinsic appearance. Experiment with similar clothing. Develop an eye (discernment), and build a wardrobe based upon your own personal aesthetic growth.
That's what I'm trying to do these days. =)

A somewhat different approach -

1. Who are you?

2. How do you feel about yourself?

3. Who do you want to be?
How do gray and light brown colors correlate with these questions? If we talk about, say, some flamboyant vivid orange suit I can understand the question. In the example I gave both colors are sort of neutral and usual for suits.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Get a Colour Analysis done. Read about it on https://www.colormebeautiful.com/, then head to to
https://inside.colorme.com/FindConsultantCMB/index.aspx and find a consultant in your area. He'll leave you a swatch of fabrics showing your neutral colors (suits, coats, etc.) and accent ones (scarves, ties, patterns, etc.).

You could do a colour analysis on your own, but I preferred hiring a professional to avoid costly mistakes. It may seem expensive, but it's worth it: shopping with absolute confidence about what is right for you and what is not is an exhilarating experience, and you'll even start wearing flattering colors you didn't think about before.

You may be unlucky like me and discover that your colours are less likely to come by - I must avoid pure whites, blacks, blues, pinks... about 90% of shirts, in other words - but even then, you'll have absolute confidence that you aren't settling.
It was a good piece of advice. Where do these consultants usually work? Where can I find them?
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Also, since you described your complexion as a low-contrast one, avoid high-contrast combinations in your clothes (e.g. light shirt with dark jacket is an high-contrast combination).
Yes, I definitely have a low-contrast complexion. Now I also know I should avoid orange and red colors. I have a shirt of that sort which is good on its own right and yet it doesn't fit my face and hair at all. I guess this shirt would be perfect for red people like Woody Allen or Thom Yorke.
 
How do gray and light brown colors correlate with these questions? If we talk about, say, some flamboyant vivid orange suit I can understand the question. In the example I gave both colors are sort of neutral and usual for suits.
First, I'll try to briefly explain the intent of my suggestion, and then answer your very good question.

This is the Zen of dressing. I believe that to dress well we must dress as who we are, our interior self. If a man attempts to dress like someone who is antagonistic to their nature and values because they like a look, they will never dress well.

Dress in your mood of the day. How you feel will affect how you look in your clothes. On a bright sunny day overflowing with confidence and joy, more exuberant attire may be the perfect harmony. On a more melancholy one, darker and plainer might best resonate. Or it could all be the opposite.

We are all works in progress. We are all growing. This is not the same as pretense, in fact, it is the opposite. And the younger we are, the more change is likely, and the greater the degree, and often the frequency as we struggle to find our best and truest self. So we are not just dressing to be the man we are, but also the man we are becoming.

I could now answer your question by saying that the mode you select based on the above can affect the palette of colors from which you choose, and it does, but that is also disingenuous because experience has taught me that issues such as color choice are far less important than the principles above in determining how good you will look in clothes. You very reasonably are seeking a direct, simple answer to what seems a direct, simple question. But as you continue your sartorial journey I think you'll find it really is not quite that simple. Though I have little doubt you will encounter many who find it profitable to supply whatever simple answer you wish.
OK, wear charcoal grey! :devil:
 
OK, wear charcoal grey! :devil:
My understanding is that charcoal grey is a safe bet when you are being indecisive, because grey is the most neutral color. If I remember correctly, my color consultant said that another safe colour is purple, and indeed I see such colour is in every colour analysis palette.

Alan Flusser touched the subject of personal colour palettes and contrast in his book "Dressing The Man".
 
My understanding is that charcoal grey is a safe bet when you are being indecisive, because grey is the most neutral color. If I remember correctly, my color consultant said that another safe colour is purple, and indeed I see such colour is in every colour analysis palette.
Ahhh . . . . then I have the perfect shoes for your suit!

 

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For what its worth, I have a similar complexion

light, almost pinkish skin
light brown, dark blonde, almost reddish hair
blue eyes

Most of my wardrobe is some form of blue or brown, grey and green. I think I get the most color complements in shades of brown.

Yellow, pink and orange, purple, black or solid white are not my colors.

I know you're asking about jackets, but here are my last few shirts from the laundry, mostly casual. Not shown is a light brown gingham which was a great color for me, but I donated sunday because I disliked the non-iron fabric.

 

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My understanding is that charcoal grey is a safe bet when you are being indecisive, because grey is the most neutral color. If I remember correctly, my color consultant said that another safe colour is purple, and indeed I see such colour is in every colour analysis palette.
After some researching, it seems that not all colour analysis experts agree on grey being good for each complexion. Some experts say it's acceptable, but not optimal. Also, if you are not discerning when it comes to colours, you may not realize that there are cool greys and warm ones, and you could pick the wrong shade.

Now that I think again about Alan Flusser's "Dressing the Man", if I remember correctly, he says you cannot go wrong with choosing coats and jackets the color of your hair, since they are supposed to enclose your face.

Anyway, look up "seasonal color analysis" to read more. Ask Andy has also a page about color analysis: https://askandyaboutclothes.com/Tutorials/CindyBuschColorAnalysis.htm
 
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