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Misinformation on proper suit jacket length?

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jwa_jwa_jwa

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have researched the 'proper' fit for sport coats, blazers and suit jackets and by far the most frequently recommended method to determine fit is the jacket just covering your rear-end.

However, there are several places that do not use this method but instead advocate using your total height to determine your suit jacket length.

I know for me these 2 methods would yield 2 different jacket lengths so I'm curious why some places would recommend the latter method.
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#2 ·
I was taught a jacket should should be at where your fingers meet your palm, when your arms are relaxed. That's just about the same as just long enough to cover your rear.

I guess the chart could be benefitial if you were ordering a suit online and had no idea if you were a S,R, or an L. You could measure your chest, you know your hight, and the chart fills in the rest. I'd never do it that way, but it would be better than just guessing.
 
#3 ·
That chart exists because nobody knows how far their shoulders are from their backside. If you're shopping online, "cover your bum" doesn't help, even though it's the best single-variable method.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
jwa, I'd suggest you spend some time looking at a variety of suit coats and sportcoats in a store where you can look closely at yourself in a three-way mirror, and then ultimately come to your own conclusion. I've had a series of arguments with one of my clothing store salespeople, a woman who has been in the business for years, and who is very knowledgeable. And opinionated. I'm just under 6'1", long torso. She wants me in a 46R, I prefer myself in a 46L. To my eyes the L gives me better length and better line, and it's dressier and more finished. To her eyes, I'm wrong. I have elected to please myself rather than to please her (did that come out right?). The L, by the way, usually has to come up about 3/4" in the sleeves.

Anyhoo, I'd suggest you come to your own conclusions. You might make a note of the length of your preference. I think that length down the back of a suit coat is more usually measured down the middle, from bottom of collar not from top of collar, to bottom of coat.
 
#7 ·
I'm nearly 5'8" and I also only get shorts. I've gotten a regular before and i hated how long it was. I think the chart is just there for a guideline seeing as how some people have longer torsos than others. Although I can't seem to comprehend how I would wear the same length jacket as my brother who is significantly taller than me at nearly 6'0" who wears regulars.

Go with the cover your rear method.

Once you find a jacket that covers you properly, measure the length from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the jacket. Use that measurement whenever you buy online as some brands may have different lengths for S, R, L.
 
#8 ·
I agree the Chart is for a quick reference for those without the luxury of a skilled fitter or a better store to do a fitting. It should cover the seat, and a rough guide in the modern trend of a slightly shorter jacket length I also look to see the end of the jacket around the last thumb knuckle (assuming his longs aren't disproportionate).

Of course if a gentleman has either a stooped or erect posture it throws the whole thing off and it really requires a large alteration or having a jacket made to get skirt of the jacket to be balanced front to back. It really is a delicate thing to get the length right all around.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
tdecast said:
I'm nearly 5'8" and I also only get shorts. I've gotten a regular before and i hated how long it was.
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This is my story. I'm 5'9" and when I first bought a suit 20 years ago, the tailor instructed me to buy the 'short' jacket. Ever since I've wondered if he was right.

Over the Christmas break I decided to ask my tailor and he took out his measurement tape and measured me (from behind) from the neck to the ground, as I've heard is one of the methods for determining fit.

Anyway, he told me I should get the 'Regular'!!!

This totally confused me since I have bought sport jackets in Short and to my eye, they look good. Even when I ran the 'cover your bun' test, the jackets do cover it sufficiently without it looking too long.
 
#10 ·
jwa_jwa_jwa said:
This is my story. I'm 5'9" and when I first bought a suit 20 years ago, the tailor instructed me to buy the 'short' jacket. Ever since I've wondered if he was right.

Over the Christmas break I decided to ask my tailor and he took out his measurement tape and measured me (from behind) from the neck to the ground, as I've heard is one of the methods for determining fit.

Anyway, he told me I should get the 'Regular'!!!

This totally confused me since I have bought sport jackets in Short and to my eye, they look good. Even when I ran the 'cover your bun' test, the jackets do cover it sufficiently without it looking too long.
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For me, I like the look of the shortest jacket that isn't too short. It sounds like you're similar.
 
#11 ·
jwa_jwa_jwa said:
This is my story. I'm 5'9" and when I first bought a suit 20 years ago, the tailor instructed me to buy the 'short' jacket. Ever since I've wondered if he was right.

Over the Christmas break I decided to ask my tailor and he took out his measurement tape and measured me (from behind) from the neck to the ground, as I've heard is one of the methods for determining fit.

Anyway, he told me I should get the 'Regular'!!!

This totally confused me since I have bought sport jackets in Short and to my eye, they look good. Even when I ran the 'cover your bun' test, the jackets do cover it sufficiently without it looking too long.
Click to expand...
Over time quite a few makers have shortened the length of their jackets. Thus a manufacturer's 40 short 20 years ago may be an inch shorter than today's 40 short by the same manufacturer. Actually, the labeled size can be misleading or even irrelevant: it is best to be measured so as to know how long your jacket must be.
 
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#15 ·
"Skirt" also refers to the bottom of a garment, as in the skirt of a man's jacket.
 
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#16 ·
jwa_jwa_jwa said:
I had no idea even Brooks' blog gives the same advice as that original website I posted
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This comes from a company what has strayed so far from its roots that it now sells too short, and too skinny, jackets and pants. If they gave proper advise they would not sell any Milano cut clothes among others. Errors on their blog have been pointed out in the past.
 
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#17 ·
I'll muddy the waters, as others have mentioned there are a lot of factors. Not everyone can go by the height chart, it's a good start but you then need to look at torso length and think of what it is you are wearing. I'm also in the 6-1 boat, in Oxxford I can wear either a 44R (sport coats, slicker suit, not too much to do sleeve length wise) or 44L (more conservative look, several inches too long in the sleeve) for Hickey Freeman (44R as they run longer than Oxxford).
 
#18 ·
I stand 6' but span 6'2". Being built like a gibbon I have the choice of buying a 44L and having a slightly long coat (which I prefer over a too short!) or getting a 44R and having the sleeves lengthened. What it means to me is if you're buying OTR, stand in front of the mirror, stand sideways and get critical. If you're buying over the internet, expect to pay for a fair amount of alteration. Such is life.
 
#19 ·
The 'measure from neck to ground' is an old school baseline, which they would take that measurement, half it, and call that your jacket length.

I'm 5'10"-11" (depending on time of day) barefoot. Most regulars fit me well, but there has been occasions I needed a long. My 'rule' is for a jacket to be at or below the tip of my thumb (relaxed with hands at sides). Any shorter looks odd on me, and for evening/sport coats, I can go up to an inch longer than this. However, I'll categorically reject any jacket that is even 1/4" shorter than the tip of my thumb. This leads me to a window of 30.5-32" from BOC.
 
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#20 ·
Oldsarge said:
I stand 6' but span 6'2". Being built like a gibbon I have the choice of buying a 44L and having a slightly long coat (which I prefer over a too short!) or getting a 44R and having the sleeves lengthened. What it means to me is if you're buying OTR, stand in front of the mirror, stand sideways and get critical. If you're buying over the internet, expect to pay for a fair amount of alteration. Such is life.
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My situation exactly. For those of us with very long arms, everything needs to be customized. I also have a high waist, so getting a long size often results in a jacket that fits my arms but whose jacket hem falls too low. Alas.
 
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jwa_jwa_jwa
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